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Bogof

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Posts posted by Bogof

  1. I'd be tempted to give it a run. The pads will clean up the discs. If you still have problems then you can give it a service. Steady away tho 8-)

     

    I agree. Why strip it all out if the only problem is that it's stood still for a few weeks?


    Go for teh easy fix first, take it out and use the brake, the disc will soon shine again :lol:

  2. I can suggest that yes, do I have proof no, do you have proof to the contrary?

    If not then ny statement stands

     

    Yes. :lol:


    As at 25 September 2010 there were 36,932,577 full licence holders in the UK.

    As at 25 September 2010 there were 3,944,417 full licence holders in the UK that had 1 or more penalty points on their licence.


    Now IF all the penalty points were for speeding, that makes a maximum of 10.68%, somewhat short of your 15% figure. :D


    Source: http://www.dft.gov.uk/dvla/foi/Disclosure/Driver%20Licence%20Statistics.aspx

  3. Oh and them stats are a joke, 85% stick to the limits bollox probably the other way around, what is your source for these numbers?

    I would suggest the numbers of offences committed would also point to this being bollox!

     

    Joke or not, the 85th percentile is used by traffic engineers in determining speed limits on new roads.


    Are you suggesting that 15% of motorists have paid £60 for a speeding offence?

  4. When looking at speed limits, there is a presumption that 85% of drivers will obey, and the lawless 15% won't.


    So which are you? 85? 15?


    Personally I'm an 85 unless the limit "feels" wrong, then I tend to drift over... which basically means motorways and dual carriageways are a potential problem for me! :wink:

  5. just on the straights that I notice it shaking slightly, and even then it's periodically.


    Any ideas?

     

    Bumpy road? :lol:


    If it's when you approach a roundabout it'll be them rumble strips they use to remind you to slow down :wink:

  6. I checked the wheel and it spins as freely as I would expect (with friction from the sprockets and chains etc), doesn't look buckled and is aligned properly as far as I can tell. I can go around corners as easily as I ever could, just on the straights that I notice it shaking slightly, and even then it's periodically.


    Any ideas?

     

    Checked your tyre pressure?

  7. Will do thanks :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

     

    Actually, wrong name... was BikerPiker. Sorry!


    Here's what he said...

     

    Hi , here's the sizes needed,i had kept them ,as a few people had requested them

    Actually,i might have posted them in the forum ,but i'm not 100% sure....


    Anyway ,here's what is needed....

    -------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    2 metres of 50mmx50mm hollow box section.


    30cm(12")approx of 1"dia. threaded bar...(prob 20mm or 22 mm dia. would do), and a nut to suit.


    15cm (6")of 20mm solid bar....(poss 18mm would do)..... and a 17mm socket to weld on the very end. (drill your hole centre 12cm from the end of the socket,for a 5 or 6mm pin/bolt etc). This bar turns when raising/lowering. (or wait till very end before drilling this,that way you can position the stand beforehand).


    4 0r 5 inches of bar/tube,... to be welded on to the end of threaded bar(anything really,just to turn it with)


    2 @ 20cm (8")or so,to weld on to bottom of frame as stabilisers.(anything )


    p.s, i welded in the small piece of round tubing,to take up the freeplay in the nut threads,and just cut the box section at an angle as in the pic. Also cos it was a friggin pain in the arse filing out two 1"holes This way ,you only need to file out one hole.


    Uprights are 2 @ 60cm, with centre of holes 53cm from the very bottom of the stand.

    The Horizontal box section is 52cm long. (inside size of stand).


    Remember, you can either use a long pole for leverage ,like i did(1 hand easy)...,or weld on a footbar.

    If using a long removable pole, you could make that upright a bit longer than 60cm,for the pole to fit in, or use a reducer like i did, depending on your handle.

    2 metres will still be enough for the 3 sections of stand.


    pps,there is enough room to use stand when bike centre-stand is down,but only just,...best to weld the stabilisers on to the OUTSIDE of the stand, that way you will have 20mm or so of clearance between the bike side stand, and the abba stand.


    IMPORTANT- inside size of stand is 52cm...but with these types of stand you have to TIGHTEN IN QUITE HARD ,so the uprights will spread,but when stand removed,will return to 52cms.


    There you go ,all you need is a steel stockist for the material ,and an ironmonger/hardware store for the threaded bar etc ,.......and a willing brother


    Best o luck



    EDIT...yup,i've just looked ,i had the sizes posted , no worries though


    Here's some pics on this link...

    viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12471&hilit=abba+stand

     

    ...but the link is broken so not sure the pics still exist.


    EDIT - Found the thread here http://www.haymouth.co.uk/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=9&t=12471&start=0&hilit=abba+stand&sid=d8b3b0fccde81f3d22bd6ee73d6c4262

  8. Can both of you post drawings and I'll make one. wish I had my own lathe!!! :mrgreen: :mrgreen: :mrgreen:

     

    Can't find them.


    Go to vtr1000.org, speak to FirestormMike and ask him to send them to you (and me again!) :shock:

  9. Apologies, I assumed it was under the same principle of slow moving vehicles such as tractors using flashing amber lights as a warning.


    I think hazrds when towing are a good idea.

     

    Tractors, breakdown trucks and the like should not use orange beacons when moving.


    I think hazards are a right royal pain in the arse. People seem to only use them when they park in a stupid place, as if that allows them to do so with impunity.


    Also, when they are used when a car is parallel parked, you can't SEE the left one, so you think they are indicating right to pull out in front of you so end up slowing down for no good reason! They waste as much fuel as bicycles and should be banned from the road when I'm using it! GRRRR!

  10. In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

     

    Surely that can't be right. 8-)

     

    It is right.


    I had to completely retrain my own driving method to pass the ADI Pt 2 driving ability test last year :roll:

  11. just snapped spark plug in housing now dont no what to do the thred is still in but nut came out any help totaly pissed :crybaby: off

     

    Find someone with a screw extractor, or buy a set in Screwfix. Soak the remaining plug with WD40 overnight. Drill the centre of the plug, insert screw extractor. Unscrew plug.

  12. After I did my CBT I rode round myself for about six months clocking up over 2000 miles. This enabled me to slowly build confidence and practise on things I wasn't good at, then had a few hours' instruction to pick up any weaknesses before my tests.

     

    My son did something similar.


    He rode around for a few months and booked Mod 1, passed it on 2nd attempt, then booked and passed Mod 2 first attempt.


    Personally I think professional training should be compulsory, as there is a huge difference between training to pass a test and training to stay alive on the roads. It worries me that people like my son have missed out on that vital training.


    10% of newly qualified riders are killed or seriously injured within their first year as a full licence holder. Professional training increases the chances that you will be amongst the 90% and not the 10%


    No matter how little you earn, what price do you put on your life?

  13. Thanks guys and it's my fault for not being clearer, but what I really want to know is this. Do you go down through the gears in sequence, engaging the clutch for each gear and using engine braking, or do you use the brakes to lose speed, disengage the clutch, and then downshift with the clutch disengaged until you select a gear appropriate to your speed?

     

    On a bike, I change down and utilise engine braking, block changing when appropriate, so that by the time I reach the junction I have pre-selected the required gear for a smooth transition between braking and accelerating.


    I ride a VTR so I sometimes have to remember to show a brake light to let others know I'm slowing as the engine braking is s bit fierce!


    In a car, if you engine brake you will fail your test. As Roadcraft says "gears are to go, brakes are to slow".

  14. I wouldn't really be keen on paying out for the DAS scheme as I believe I'd then have to pay for lessons, bike hire, and escort to and from the test centre?

     

    That's correct, since you can't ride a big bike on L plates with a provisional licence unless you are supervised by a Cardington qualified instructor and in radio contact with him.


    If you're cash limited, then test on a 125 is the best route, with or without the benefit of professional training.

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