Bogof

Going for a ride now, if not on here later then they broke and I died.

Are you dead yet? Can I have your (broken) bike?

can i book the test myself?

iv tried 6 times today and all it says is that there are no dates free

Yes.

Use a larger range of dates. Or try another test centre.

When doing the mod 1 is the bike supplied or do I have to contact my driving school and pay?

The DSA do not supply a bike, or any gear (apart from a radio for Mod 2)

So as you may know, got past mod 1, no instructor, now I'm thinking of taking mod 2 the same way, it'd be great to say that I did the whole motorbike thing without an instructor!!

It's just that there's a whole load of anomalies in mod 2, anything could happen, whereas mod 1 you know the drill...

Mod 2 is a rideout, with a satnag in your ear. It really is that simple.

All you need to do is demonstrate that you are a confident rider and don't pose a risk to yourself or other road users.

Passing the test without training is easy. Staying safe and alive on the roads without training after you pass is tougher. 10% of newly qualified riders get killed or seriously injured in their first year. Training significantly improves those odds.

sooo back to the original question

Didn't the links I posted give you enough?

Why oh why does this happen to me, failed hazard perception by one point two weeks ago and I was due to take it today...but.....I get the dreaded vomit and diarrhea bug yesterday, left me feeling like crap. Still running to loo every ten minutes, so I think going there to do the test is not a good idea. No chance of getting money back as I have not given 24hrs cancellation.....which would have been difficult on a Sunday......why oh why....

Get a doctor's certificate and they refund the test fee. Problem is the doctor will probably charge for the certificate. Hohum!

You don't need to indicate if there is no other traffic around

 

Since when? can you guarantee there isn't a car coming around a bend? I'd indicate even if I was the only person around for miles tbh

If there's nobody to see it, the indicate is pointless. So says common sense, The Highway Code, ADIs and the DSA examiners bible. "Only indicate if someone would benefit from it"

I did my last, and first DAS wearing jeans,cat boots and the jacket, helmet and clothes they provided. BUT i know the whole bike test thing as changed alot since then.

The protective gear requirements haven't changed, but they now list them openly on the website whereas it used to be hidden away in the examiner's manual.

Bit long winded title but id appreciate the full procedure , since im learning myself, i need the DSA pantomine drill for moving away from angled start.

On another note if anyone has any links to sites for people who wana learn themselves that would be crackin stuff

If you genuinely believe it to be a "pantomime" then quite honestly you would probably benefit from some professional training so that they can explain to why the "pantomime" is such a good idea, and such an essential aid to longevity apart from any other consideration.

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/LearnerAndNewDrivers/LearningToDriveOrRide/index.htm

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/LearnerAndNewDrivers/RidingMotorcyclesAndMopeds/index.htm

http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Motoring/LearnerAndNewDrivers/PracticalTest/DG_178328

The link is 3 years old, the site probably died.

Works perfectly here

Normal jeans dont count towards protective clothing.

As far as the DSA are concerned, they do, as they are "trousers"...

Importance of protective clothing

Safety helmets

By law you must wear a safety helmet when riding a motorcycle on the road

Wearing the right gear is just as important as servicing your motorcycle and knowing how to ride it.

By law you must wear a safety helmet when riding a motorcycle on the road.

To protect yourself from injury and stay comfortable, invest in good quality clothing. This should include:

•visors or goggles

•a jacket

•trousers

•gloves and gauntlets

•boots

•visibility aids

It is a good idea to get clothing with armour at points which are most vulnerable in a crash like:

•shoulders

•elbows

•back

•knees

•ankles

thankyou bogoff,

i now know what colour cones the D.S.A have a penchant for?

but as for deciphering the diagram re widths for exercises, hm?

Take a look at that site, the rest is all on there

Hi, anyone know the distance between the two yellow lines in the mod 1? I tried today night on a normal road and it just isn't physically possible, is it 3 car bays space, or less??

http://

http://www.xsmotorcycleschool.co.uk/Ima ... iagram.pdf

Has anyone ever told you how valuable professional training can be? It'd help to overcome the "physically impossible" feelings

Is it only the main hazard that i click on? ie click just before it happens then more as it develops?

Do NOT click for a potential hazard, do NOT click 8 times per "hazard". The software contains a "cheat" algorithm and clicking multiple times can result in that clip not counting at all due to "cheating".

If you read and follow the intro they tell you exactly what they want to qualify for a pass. Click on a DEVELOPING hazard. It's that simple.

And don't relax after the sheep.... there are more to come!

cheers everyone ya all been great help

I was? Damn!

my understanding is when the valves are both shut the valve springs will be fully extended, not compressed like when they are pushing the valves open. so if this exhaust valve spring continues to extend then i'm going to assume either the valve is bent or the spring needs replacing

If they were fully extended there'd be no pressure on the valve to keep it shut

Hooked it up to my car, didn't do anything. Still doesn't start.

Have the car running and being revved

Shouldn't need to rev it with an alternator on the car

If it's a paper one , no. Hoover it out, or replace. You really need a manual.

I tried a manual in my airbox. Couldn't get all the screws back in.

and why not a speedo bike wash???? Speedo's & a crash helmet!!!

If you're going to wash the speedo and the helmet, you might as well do the whole bike!

Time to call in the professionals maybe?

so we need 3 rallies a year then. 1 northern, 1 southern, and 1 in the midlands somewhere. then everyone's happy.

Apart from the Scots, since the "middle" of the UK is north of Hadrians Wall, a small fact often overlooked by those south of the border. Apparently.

Still, we let them grow all our pine trees for us, what more do they want?

So you get a spark, sometimes. There is fuel getting through.

At this point I would get a car and a pair of jump leads.

 

right ok, i have my car and a set of jump leads.........easy to hook up?

Positive to positive, negative to negative.

If you see sparks and/or flames you wasn't paying attention.

Couldn't be easier.

So you get a spark, sometimes. There is fuel getting through.

At this point I would get a car and a pair of jump leads.

hey thanks Tango, been helpful.

i'll check HT lead and plug cap again tomorrow. how would I check the compression? do i need a test kit for it? compresion could be the answer as this might be why it cut out in the first place. the best description i can give for when it cut out was i was riding at about 50mph then suddenly it died, twisting the throttle did nothing didn't even rev but the lights and that stayed on

All of which points to either a loss of spark or a loss of fuel. Since you know fuel is getting through, loss of spark is top of the list. It is very unlikely to be a compression related issue, they tend to be coupled with catastrophic banging and crashing if they arise suddenly.

I still come back to you saying you had a spark on one plug but not the other. Apart from the plug itself, what else changes when you get spark or don;t get spark?

Hi guys, just wanted to know, when you drive behind the guys board at slow speed, how many mph is it approximately?

3mph 4mph? I need to know so I can practise, also the slalom, are the cones placed roughly around the width of a parking bay,

eg

- < say those are the bays, would it roughly be

- one cone here,

- another here

- another here etc....?

also, when you do a life-saver, how far back are you ACTUALLY meant to be looking, right down the side?? or just near to the rear tyre??

3 mph, 2 bays, anywhere the threat is likely to be coming from and only the area you cannot see in your mirror.

Get a friend to stand alongside your bike, in the next "lane". Tell him to walk slowly backwards till you can see him in your mirror. The area in front of him is the lifesaver zone. The area behind him is mirror zone. Now pretend he's a car, and you'll understand why it's so important to look at that zone before a change of direction to the left OR the right.

Also worth bearing in mind that I recall a bike cop once saying "I can sit in a bikers blindspot for 10 minutes without him knowing I'm there". Scary innit?