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Aaron

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Posts posted by Aaron

  1. Thos steps look more or less right.


    Although I would still say you should have a haynes for you're specific bike?


    My brake caliper bolts have a bit of coper slip on em, no lock tight but check with you're haynes.


    Can you do yourself without worrying, well its no doubt brakes are an area where you want to take great caution. As long as you follow you're haynes and do exactly what it says and torque up bolts exactly as it says, then it should be a piece of cake. I changed the lines and disassembled my calipers a few months back and this was my first time working on brakes. So far they're still working great so if I can you can! Just dont rush!

     


    I just saw that there is a Haynes manual for my bike now. Back in February there wasn't but it looks like theres a new one out for er-6 2006-2010. I've ordered it from amazon for < £15. bargain.

  2. Ok... i had a look on youtube (i don't know my way around the vehicle yet). Can someone who know what they're doing sanity check this for me? Thanks.


    * Undo bolts to remove calliper.

    * Remove calliper.

    * Remove pin/s to get pads out.

    * Pump the brake just enough to get the pistons showing without falling out.

    * Blast with some cleaner to clean out the calliper and pistons (I figure i can't go wrong with an aerosol that evapourates).

    * Give the back of the pads a clean and apply a little copper slip.

    * Push pistons back in.

    * Reassemble in reverse of dissasemble.


    Now, in addition to that, is it ok to just remove the bolts and then put them back? or are they locktite etc?


    Assuming the steps are correct, bearing in mind i'm not a comlete muppet (i think), is this something i can do myself without worrying? Presumably there are some jobs which are best left to people who know what they're doing, but the vids i saw looked fairly simple.


    Thanks :)

  3. The guy on the repsol that was third for most of the race kept doing it. At one point the commentator said "There's so and so with the leg out, trying to bleed off some speed".


    I suppose that even if it helps him lose 1mph he can come onto the brakes later and try to slip up on the inside of the guy infront.

  4. I've not had a problem with mine and thats a 09 plate, mines also been run over a couple of times, dropped by family members couple of times and me once and i've binned it down the road and no such problems. Dunno if i'm just lucky or if the batch i got mine from were very well built but so far so good at almost 13k miles :D


    Glad you got yours sorted now though, have you done anything with your mirrors to stop the vibration?

     

    Mine seem pretty good to be honest. Occasionally things are a little bit fuzzy if im in a certain rev range. I've not got much to compare to though. The er5 i learned on was aweful. On the dual carriageway i could just about make out coloured fuzzes behind me. Silver or grey cars were almost invisible.


    Should i be expecting crystal, number plate reading, clarity at speed?

  5. Till 3.5months later :wink: Did they explain why it happened or just faulty workmanship on that joint?

     

    Googling showed that it's a common problem (the dealer said they've had 3 or so) although i didn't find anyone that had a bike as new as mine. I assume that the bit where it broke is welded and that that it's a poor quality weld. I don't know if the 'new batches' are better or not.

  6. Just an update incase anyone experiences similar.


    As previously posted my down pipes broke clean through just before the collar before it joins the back box. The boke is only 3.5 months old and has done 2.6k miles.


    I phoned up and said my pipes broke. They said they'll call me when they get new pipes in. They called the next day and said when can i come in. I checked its covered under warranty. They said ofcourse. Cool. I rode it there this morning and they got to work while i had a browse. 40 minutes later they gave me back the keys. Bish bash bosh - i'm all good to go.


    So anyone experiencing similar should have no problem getting them replaced. The dealer was Orwell Motorcycles in Ipswich. They have a good rep and so far i've no reason to doubt it's validity.

  7. hope you have made sure with them that this is at no cost to you for new part and the labour to replace it

     

    Well when i phoned i explained that, but the woman put me through to 'servicing'. So perhaps he just picked up the phone and wasn't aware that i wanted it done under warranty.


    When he calls me back to say they got the pipes i'll double check. TBH, after reading about it being a common fault, i can't see how they could refuse. He asked how many miles i'd done, so maybe that's an indicator that he's thinking about warranty conditions. Anyway after just 3 months and 2600 miles i'll get it sorted at no cost one way or another :mrgreen:


    Other posts i've googled, regarding the same problem and others, all sounded like Kawasaki seem to be fairly good at that sort of thing. Fingers crossed.


    I'm hoping that they can fix it while i wait and will give me a different bike to go for a joy ride on while i wait. A nice zx 6 or something 8-)

  8. Hi. Got some better photos, and now it's cold i could have a wiggle. Looks like it's just sheared rather than any kind of seal or joint being broken. I had a quick google and it sounds like a common problem :s Oh well. I'll have to call up the dealer on monday.

     

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