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cypek

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Posts posted by cypek

  1. I had the same on my Ninja recently. Turned out it was condensation due to me riding only to work and back (10 miles each way). I've changed oil and did a few longer runs and it is now clean :)

  2. thanks, i have been told by a couple of people that have been driving for years that i could do it, but its just the worry of spending god knows how much on the test to fail, i have drove my brothers 125 a couple of times, and going up through the gears i find it easy, although for some reason i find it hard to go back down them and he isn't really much help with it either.


    may as well ask you guys, when going down through gears, after changing down a gear, would i need to build the revs up at all before going down another?, cause i have checked on the internet and there are way too many sites that say different things. thanks again for the posts :)

    A good instructor will be able to explain and show you everything you need to know :thumb:

    When you changing gear down you MAY blip a throttle but I would say it depends how high the revs are. As when I reduce gear at 12k revs just by releasing the clutch I can feel my rear wheel locks for a sec and it may be dangerous but when done on low revs then its no problem :thumb:

  3. Does the bike have safety cut-off switch? (big red switch on rh switchgear) Sorry, I can't help you much. All I can suggest is faulty ignition?? But I'm sure someone with more knowledge will pop in soon :thumb:

  4. Does it at least trying to start/turning or there is no response at all when you press the starter button? What was the reason for overheating? Was it fixed by professional? When was the last service done? We need a few more details :wink:

  5. hi bumblebabe.you have got me thinking ,and thats not good .i was under the impression that i would need about 3 hrs training then i would pass my mod 1 ,oh dear.if like you after 9 hrs of lessons at the best part of £270 then the mod 1 test £15 and (for me ) a lessons money so i can use a bike £30.the mod 1 could cost me just over £300. and then i can start mod 2. I'm beginning to think that a 125 is the most cost affective way of getting a license .at least it wont cost anything to practice.

    I would say it depends. I did ride for 6 months and I went for my MOD1 on my own but I failed 3 times :oops: So I just said f**k it and I did DAS. Passed both tests first time on a big bike :mrgreen:

  6. Sorry but £1000 won't be enough for that kind of 125. CBT - £100, gear - £100 and with £800 left it is pretty hard to find a decent 125cc unless a scooter or chinese. Cheapest Varadero on Autotrader is for £999 and next one is for £1450. But for under £1000 there is loads of big bikes including Bandits, older CBRs, Ninjas, GPX/GPZs and quite a few commuters ER5, GS500, CB500.

  7. £480 seems to be a very good price for a guaranteed course with CBT included. I would go for it if I were you :thumb: You may also ask them for a taster session. They may let you try a bike for free for an hour so you'd see how hard would it be :wink: Also don't forget you'll need a protection. If you go for 2nd hand set you could get it really cheap. The only thing you should buy new is helmet but the prices start from £25 :)

    I also think it is easier to find a big bike for a grand than 125cc. :cheers:

  8. I am using standard car satnav, Garmin Nuvi 265WT and it is good enough for me. I wouldn't buy a specific bike satnav unless it was really reasonably priced. And £200-£300 extra over similar car unit just for a waterproofing and bluetooth is a rip off to me. I really don't like to waste my money so I prefer to get a waterproof case for £15 off ebay. But that is just my personal opinion :)

  9. Tyre unrepairable. Cut was too big to be plugged :evil: Had to get another tyre. Luckily they had almost new BT020 and they fitted it for £50. But that means I have to ride on 2 different tyres now as I can't afford to replace my front one besides it is almost new :evil: :evil:


    F**K IT!!!!!

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