scrowe

BANG ON! liz and john (think thats their names, been bout 10 years since i had contact) will see you right. they won't be able to tell you how much training you need exactly at the cbt point but most people can get through the das with 3-5 days of training on one of their gs500's. they are good though, got me through with 2 1/2 days but i'd been riding 125 for 18 months up untill that point.

on a gsxr i had they just popped in to place with no sealer.

i used to have a tw years ago, was a right giggle bombing across fields (legaly ocifer).

those me old mate are your chain adjusters. no they shouldn't be loose. otherwise the axle can move backwards and forwards on the swingarm putting more stress on the chaindrive. as you accelarate the chain at the top get tight and pulls towards the bike on one side dragging the axle out of alignment so twisting the chain in the sideway axis and the whole wheel won't be lined up straight in the swing arm. this over time will knacker your chain, sprocket, cush drive and possibly bearings. asidee from that the bike will crab down the road with the back end slightly out to the right while riding in a straight line. there should be 2 nuts on that bolt at the end that do up together to stop them undoing. 1 does the adjustment and the 2nd tightens up behind the first to lock it. hope this helps. By the way is that a TW125?

another product worth using is scotoiler fs365 spray. it nutralizes salt and leaves a good barrier against dirt. it's water based so it dries on a hot engine but is easy to wash of.

i dont think its even about saving lives. i recon its about filling the coffers wi cash!! thats it nothing more.

between the DSA and the Government they are really f**king things up for new bikers. i really feel for new bikers doing there test, it's so hard now and you wait so long to get a test with a low chance of a 1st time pass then the pull this shit and delay you even further (and you've paid for it too!!!). all you can do is stick with it. just be patient. i hope when ur test does come round you nail it so you can get out on the road! it will be worth the wait in the end. chin up mate!

There is another option. go to M&P and for about £40 you can get some bar risers that bolt on to the top yolk ans allow fitment of drag bars. the bars you have are bolt ons so if you are handy (or have a mate that is) you could trim off the bar risers you have that rise from the bolt plates and then bolt on the riser from M&P for the flat bar. another option looking at the photo a bit closer is fabricated 2 base plates the same shape as the bases of the existing bars and attach the risers to them so they bolt straight on to where the old bars bloted on to the yolk! just a bit of billet aluminium and a drill could make something looking really smart and still using the same bolts and original yolk! £40-£80 would do it! it's a bit of work but done right won't cost the earth and all polished up would look the mutts!

either way, it works mr pedantic! lol

there other options that may be cheaper the a new exhaust. 1/ you can get at nearly all shops like halfords a freeze spray. if there is any of the bolt still sticking out of the holes you can spray it, the area around the bolt will expand in the cold and then get some molegrips on the studs. i had to do it with snapped studs on my manifold. 2/ eastouts are a drill bit with a reverse thread. you take a tiny dill bit and drill a pilot hole down the centre of the snapped bolt. the easy out will reverse screw in to the piolt hole and undo. wd40 will help alot. it's a bit time consuming but a load cheaper than new exhausts. hope this helps.

sporry to be blunt but If you've got money to burn then fine! it's a total waste of time and effort on a 4stroke 125 that you can't tune or up performance buy ant real amount. basic maths will do just fine like the rest of us do on pretty much every factory machine on the plannet! if it were a gsxr1000 or an blade then yeah spend the money, get it mapped, bore it out or bolt on nitrous then the unit could be usefull. your better off spending the money on new helmet or traing to get ur das.

I have both fuel guage and a trip on the VFR. on previous bikes just the trip. i allways reset trip regardless. The minute it gets to 170 miles i look for a fill up that way i know i have about 25-30 miles left. you don't need a fuel guage if you do that. most fuel guages arn't 100% accurate any way. When i fill up and ride 85 miles my guage still reads full! then it'll drop like a stone! use it as an indicator, nothing more. the only real method is the trip and to "look in the hole" on the tank if you can! if you see the petty you're ok!

all through the summer i wear short gloves and it's mint, a bit more air, granted they are thinner summer richa items wi carbon knuckles but it's no different. i've allways found it better to go shopping for gloves and take the jacket you'll wear with you to make sure you the right cuff though. i have 4 jackets, 2 leather, 2 textile and each one has it's own pair of gloves so whatever the weather i've got something suitable, rain, cold, boiling hot and somewhere in between. invest in a mix of clothing if you can over a period of time and you'll never get caught out unexpectedly.

havo you looked at the sparkplug and cap?

when you swapped the pads over did you pop out a caliper piston? in fact did any brake fluid come out from anywhere? if so you will need to bleed the lines. bit of a pig of a job but will need doing if you want to stop. can you plull the lever back to the handle bar? if there is pressure and the lever wont compress all the way down you may just need to clean up the calipers and pistons.

The first thing i'd say say is get the battery charged up full. Check and clean the spark plug. As its been sat for a while the fuel in the carb may have evaporated just leaving the 2stroke oil which may have gummed up the jets so that may need cleaning too. other than that it should be ok. just take your time. when the bike fires expect a fair bit of stuttering and smoke because of the unburnt 2stroke oil in the cylinder. once it's warmed up it should calm down to a sensible level with a bit of blueish smoke. just don't rev the knackers of it to begin with, let it warm up gently so all the moving parts can get properly lubricated.

sounds like he's fiddled with the idle speed. the little knob restricts or increases fuel flow to the carbs. turn it one way the engine will run faster at idle or the other way will slow it down. turn it anticlockwise while the bike is running and it should speed up. you want it to settle at about 750-900rpm at idle.

Normally it will be a full headlight as the outer lense is bonded on to make it water tight. otherwise they could fill with water when it's raining, not ideal unless you want ur electrics to short. a gold fish could be a comical feature though.

GET IN!!! Best feeling in the world! BURN THE "L" PLATES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

the tight spots will be an issue one way or the other. clean and lube it asap to loosen that up, check all bearing and bushes as in previous posts but also look to see if the cush drive is knackerd. what bike is it?

sweeeeet!!!! well done!!!

This is going sound daft but you are looking to be spending a whole lot on security to get not alot of the insurance. The only way to get the premium down that ive found is keep the bike in a locked brick garage and make sue you get those no claimes built up every year. The amount you'll spend on locks and the like will be more than the dicount you'll get off the isurance company. At the end of the day iff someone wants you're bike they'll get it! or... I had a mate with a cbr600, some theiving rat tried to get through the chains and couldn't instead he just kicked the bike over and smashed all the fairing and end can resulting in £000's of pounds of damage. If the bike has an imobiliser thats the best thing other than that a big chain is more of a visual deterent. alarm disc locks just go off when they feel like it (normally about 3am). if the bikes outside all year than keep a cover over to stop random eyes clocking it. and possibly datatagging as well. I did this exercise when i started riding and to get £150 of a policy meant i had to spend the best part of £225 on security. you live in london so it's allways going to expensive.

Nice one!! Having the right tools is a must. don't need to spend hundreds on snapon kit (unless you want of course). it's very gratifying working on your own bike. as long as there is a beer in one hand and a spanner in the other anything is possible with a little patience.

Hiya, Just wondering if you got any joy out of York Rider Training?

For a total novice who's nervy about a bigger machine it give them less room for error and my point was its cheaper to do it that way than to buy an new 250. buying an 8yr old sv/bandit/fazer thats alot more bike in every department will cost less! buying a bike to keep for two years, loose all ur money on that in depresiation. then find another machine and spend the money again. Aside from that the 70 odd HP the sv puts out still takes the piss out of nearly every car on the road in terms of performance so restricting one if your a tad uneasy isn't as silly as it sounds. i bet you've never kept your bike below 7k when you first got it. some people don't have that sort of control with the wrist to begin with. it's easy to get cought up with the speed on a sunny day. not forgetting you still only get 6 points for 2 years regardless of test you do, it could help keep you on the road and not banned which would suck!!! all 600's will take the mickey out of a 911 to 60 and beyond. we ride machines that are for the most part supercar fast. no wonder some people are cautious of them. God its fun!!!!