alexanderfoti

Just an update, I ended up doing this: http://i.imgur.com/rbzGe.jpg http://i.imgur.com/v5LbC.jpg Adjustable handlebars and pull-back bar mounts. Drilled 2 holes into the top mount, and mounted them using the large bolts provided (and some spring washers)

Just FYI I ended up buying a new chain, and moving the back wheel all the way forward, and setting the correct tension on that one. All working lovely

Guess I will be taking out another link. I HATE my chain breaker! Cheers for the help!

I suppose its possible. Im not the best at chain maintenance and the old chain had 9,000 miles on it

If I re-adjust the chain back to how I receive it, its wayyyyy too loose, even with the wheel all the way back. There is a little diagram on the side of my swing arm where the wheel bolt is and it says something like . Im just trying to adjust the wheel back to the "new" section.

Cheers

That is only a quick fix, If I do this, then I am at the end of my adjustment limit on a new chain. In 3-6 months when I go to adjust the tension again, I wont be able to go any further.

Ah. When you say forward, do you mean towards the front of the bike? Because to tighten it you need to move it back towards the rear of the bike And if the chain is the same length as the old one, then the new one should fit. I say should because I have known stranger things to happen haha Yeah towards the front of the bike, the reason I moved it forward, was because I had already used up the adjustment on the old worn chain). I am pretty sure I have to take some links out, i initially had to take out 4! for it to be in the right ballpark.

Sorry, I wasnt clear in my original post. I have moved the back wheel forward using the adjuster bolts to the stock position when a new chain is installed, but the chain is way to slack at this position (making me think I need to take more links out )

Hi all I just had a go at doing a front + rear sprocket and chain change on my 125 Varadero. Removed the old crappy chain, laid it next to the new chain (genuine honda replacement kit), adjusted it to the correct length and put it all back. My Crappy Haynes manual doesn't even mention adjusting chain slack!!! Seriously this should be in any motorbike service manual! The issues I have are: a)with the chain adjuster at the "new" position, the chain is way too slack, am in going to have to remove some more links? b)whats the easiest way to get the alignment back correctly, I buggered up with the adjuster bolts and now they are all over the place. Thanks in advance!

I dont think I will he hopping over many fences on the NSR!

Cheers, I did conclude in the end that it would be dangerous to modify them. I will take some pics tomorrow, thanks for your help!

Just had an idea of buying another set and cutting, then welding to increase the height, but im pretty sure they are made from ALu!

it MAY be time to break out the welder!

not sure, not something i've ever looked into, but there is this sort of thing on ebay: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Motorcycle-Handlebar-30mm-Risers-Oversized-28-6mm-Fat-Bar-Pro-Taper-VEGAS-/120781970838?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item1c1f2a9d96#ht_1148wt_1270 Should fit most bikes/bars, although, you will need to check that your cables would be long enough! Oh dear Unfortunately, and as my nsr has clip-ons, it seems I can only use something like this: http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/46-mm-Black-3 ... 550wt_1163 but I think that that price, I will take some pain killers instead!

I have looked at those, but there doesn't seem to be any available for my specific models, are there any good universal ones? It appears somebody has already had a go at lowering the seat, mainly by removing most of the foam!

Hi All Now that I have "completed" my project NSR125 and have turned it into a streetfighter type build, I have realised that I am unhappy with the riding style, especially after coming from the Varadero!. Essentially I am too far leaning forward, which is hunching my shoulders and putting a lot of pressure on my wrists which is painful What would be the easiest way to lift the bars slightly? Thanks all in advance!

Many thanks! best advice I can give is not to overstress about it, !

aha, I have not, I dont know if there is one, so i must look.

Hi all I am stripping a primary case that I belive contains a villiers clutch, Any idea on how to remove this cap so I can remove the clutch completely? http://i54.tinypic.com/2r1qs.jpg I belive its a villiers clutch from a 32a primary drive

I would go none other than geniune honda. I paid 11.50 + vat for mine from David silver spares, cant really go wrong!

Just to let everyone know, I passed! It was a breze, examiner was nice, only got 1 minor (touched 25mph in at 20 zone but immediately corrected it) A nice day out really

Many thanks for the good luck. I see how it came across like I was doing lifesavers only for the test but I do them all the time on every ride, just wanted to check when the testers would be expecting you to do them thats all! Thanks for the tip and I will let you know how I get on!

Hi all I have my Module 2 in Enfield on Friday morning and was wondering something about observations. I have been double checking and practising them all on my commute to and from work and I want to just double check that I have them down: Approaching a junction - Minor to major. Look in mirrors, lifesaver, position (left or right), reach the end of the road, Stop, Livesavers again, check road ahead, see a clear gap, left or right lifesaver (depending on turning left or right) then turn, check mirrors then up to speed? also, if you are in slow moving traffic, do you have to do a lifesaver every time you stop and every time you move off? Cheers in advance!

Perfect! It doesnt appear to be leaking fluid from any of the joints. I suspect it needs a bleed and as I am unaware of its history I will be doing this first. I agree on the line issue, if its no better afterbleeding I will replace the old rubber lines. Odd thing is that the bite point is very close to the bars so I am suspecting the seals are stuck.