alexanderfoti

Aha, I have asked an ebay seller of an ACT20 whether his can do this. 80 squid or so seems like a good buy for 2 cameras + memory cards, I'm sure I can hide them in the fairing of my bike. I will write up a how to type guide if I do end up buying Either that or have 2 of them on my helmet, I have 2 bikes so I can decide between the two.

Hi all I am thinking of putting 2 bike cameras on my bike. One forward and one facing back. Anybody know if any cheap cameras that will record on power supply and stop when power is removed (And in a loop of course!) Ta!

they should not be the same diameter internally as one goes onto the metal of the handlebar and the other has to fit over the throttle grip so one should be bigger than the other My thoughts, but even 2 honda oem grips from david silver are the same diameter, a bit of electrical tape and grip glue sorted it though

Have doube checked and they are both the same diameter. This is the second set with this issue. Will wrap some electrical tape around the bars many thanks

Hi all I am trying to replace split handle bar grips on my cb250 superdream 1980. I bought honda oem grips, which have a 22mm diameter, my bars are also 22mm diameter, when fitting the left side, even with grip glue, the grip pulls off way to easily. Any ideas?

I haven't actually done the test yet, I might give it a go today.

Ahh cool, I will give that a go, many thanks.

Yup, Level is spot on

Hi all I have a Varadero xl125 with 12000 miles on the clock. Recently its been whining a little bit between 4 and 8k rpm. Its quite a high pitched whine and really annoying, making me think I should look into it a bit more. Its louder from the left hand side of the engine and you can hear it more on deceleration (mostly because of the exhaust) Turn your volume down, its loud! Its had an oil and filters service less than 1000 miles ago (by me). Any ideas?

Not to worry, I have replaced the regulator and all is well. Thanks.

Hi all I am currently trying to figure out what is wrong with my charging system. This if for my diesel converted superdream, it has a rewound stator, which seems to work well. The problem is with my regulator. I am using a superdream regulator. If I have it connected up properly I get 12.2v and no charging. If I leave the sense wire disconnected , at 3600rpm, I get 18v into my electrical system! I have double checked all grounds, gone over everything twice, but cant find any issues, any ideas? My only thought is that the regulator is duff.

Thanks, yeah they were held together by a stubborn circles, got them apart in the end and the bushes were worn to hell, ended up renewing lots of bits, but they are back together and working well now. Thanks its a superdream with a diesel engine in it, have a look at http://www.fotifixes.com

I will give it a go! cheers.

The holes are not deep enough to get the circlip pliers all the way in though, they keep slipping out, I should be able to prize them apart using a small flat head at the opening though, must be careful not to scratch the stanchions!

lol makes sense, should circlip pliers be okay on them?

The reason to turn them off is that if the float height is stuck, and the bike is at an angle, the cylinder could fill with fuel, causing a hydrolock, and doing lots of damage the next time you start the engine.

Hi all I am currently in the process of changing the fork seals on a pair of cb250 superdream forks. I have followed the service manual and have removed the spring, damper, all the fork oil, and the bottom bolt. I am now stuck with removing the stanchion from the lower fork leg. Now the manual says: "relocate the fork leg so that the lower leg is grasped, remove the Allen screw from the base of the leg (already done), prise the dust cover off the lower fork leg and pull the fork tube out of the lower leg. Now, my understanding is that the dust cover is the rubber boot that goes between the stanchion and the lower fork. I have removed this, but the stanchion will not come loose. I am thinking maybe I should remove this: http://i.imgur.com/sIUOq.jpg but im pretty sure this is the retaining clip for the oil seal, which should be removed after the stanchion. Any ideas?

I did end up removing the pistons, cleaning the seal grooves, fitting new seals and thoroughly cleaning the pistons, they were caked in corrosion! bloody salt on the roads, only 2 years old as well.

Hmm I should be more regular with my cleaning sessions...

Hm I would normally, the thing that bugs me is the bike is only 2 years old! (10k miles!) bit of a pain that they are playing up already!

The top yolk at the point where the bolts go through are about 1cm thick, do you think this is ok?

Yup, there are large washers on the underside of each bolts, and the holes were drilled with progressive bits until the bolts fitted, so the bolts are as small as possible

Great! Thanks very much, I will give this a go.

Cheers, I have greased the slides already, so we can rule that out. Should I replace the seals when I clean the pistons?

Hi all My front brakes are binding. I changed the pads (as they were very low) and replaced the fluid but this did not help. I pushed the pistons in using a c clamp with plastic cups, replaced the brake fluid, and the calipers are still binding! I am thinking a bit of dirt or grime is stuck between the brake seals, meaning I need to change them. Thoughts?