Lumor_uk

Have you checked the valve gap? if the spark is getting wet it's running rich or the piston rings have gone.

you sure know your bearings

Silk brings up 1980's look in my head I want hi tech material like a base layer

No mate, I'm going to tell you to DO IT YER BLOODY SELF !!! You will be giving money away and learning nothing about yer bike.Bearing replacement is pi$$ easy and both bearings can be done in 1/2 hour. If you can afford it , good luck to ya, just don't expect any advice from me

Wife on maternity pay...I can afford it at the moment but it's not something I want to be wasting money on in future. I bought a £1k 125cc so I didn't have to burger around with it like my '85 cg125. Done the rear wheel bearings on my Golf, 30 minutes each side. A year down the line I get an advisory for one of the bearings being loose. Getting the torque just right so it doesn't come loose and/or doesn't grind the wheel to a halt throwing me off the road is a pain in the behind. Any tips?

he's not a bike shop its a double act cars and motor bikes. Anyway was £48 on the books.

To replaced front tyre was £15.

But the £48 is minus the re test fee had i done it myself so £31 to get him to do it? Now you're going to tell me bearings isn't a re test fee item

Bought the bearings already, but how much do you reckon he'll charge me in labour?

Walked in said hey **** I've got the bearings and he just said to "put them next to the bike, I'll sort it for ya" without looking up from his computer.

I know I should have asked but I mean it all seemed rather underhand. I had to deal with the mechanic direct at the back of the garage rather than reception. I'm thinking £20-£30 it's about an hour to do right? I've done my push bikes plenty of times but can't be bothered with lifting the bike taking the wheel off etc etc.

Anyone recommend one? My bet looks like the BMW Summer storm hood on ebay at the moment. Currently using a wind stopper one which is great for when it's cold but getting hot under the lid lately.

I find it easier to wash the balaclava than my helmet inners, plus I look freaking scary when no one can see my face

oh and it stops my flappy ears getting folded down

Wearing summer base layers to wick the sweat away from my skin, if I don't wear a base layer it wicks straight onto my textiles making them stink after a week of commuting. Easier to wash base layers (no conditioner allowed) than re-waterproofing the textiles.

google cg125 haynes manual its the same engine. I would clean the carb out though as messing with the settings just masks a problem. Very true if bike has previously working fine.

oh dear and good luck

sorry no help, but why on earth are you cleaning the internal oil filter on a 2011 bike? isn't it every 12 months?

my honda manual for my Xr 125 2006 says 3 months lol what's that about?

i got a major fail in a car test for being too cautious in pissing rain on a short stretch of dual carriageway. I was doing 50 behind a lorry thought it was reasonably fast.

Welcome to the forums...download the CG125 manual.

Google it

http://www.google.co.uk/search?q=cg125+ ... =firefox-a

White smoke is a sign the piston rings/cylinder compression has had it I'm afraid. It should still run though, just means you have to keep adding oil. Have you checked your timing on the stator?

You're putting oil on your paper filter? I've got Honda Xr 125 L5 and it's a paper filter. Don't think you put oil on paper filter? Doesn't mention it in the Honda manual.

If someone's put an old CG engine on your XR L5 then it would be a sponge filter, if bought OEM it will be pre oiled.

Does filling the tank up to the very lip/ neck affect the tank breather hose?

ha ha doesn't look very well made

there is plenty of room in my head light even if the halogen is slightly longer. Why have they put such a stupid connection in there in the first place?

sorry to bump old thread, but what happened in the end please? Got BA20D bulb in my XR125 and was looking at upgrading. I work nights so do a lot of riding in the dark. Never thought about the halogens touching the lens, will have a look tomorrow.

edit2: just seen measurements of halogen, is 5mm longer than oxygen filled bulb....hum, to risk or not to risk.

edit: no matter seen your reply in another thread

"I wanted to upgrade my bulb when I had a 125; it was 35W when on full beam!

The trouble is that while you can stick a bulb of greater power in there and a higher rated fuse, it will most probably (a) melt your headlamp fitting and (b) melt the wiring loom.

The solution to problem (a) is not so hard to fix, but problem (b) is bugger to fix, so I ended up just living with it until I passed my test and sold the bike."

I got thrown off by an instructor in a driving test "right at the double round about"....I mean wtf?? right at the second round about or what . I failed that test as I completely lost my composure when he let me go round a round about 5 times before he decided I should get off at the next exit lol I could have dragged him out of the car and kicked the shit out of him then and there. It's no surprise I past on my 5th driving test

A good 125 is hard and expensive to find, a good larger bike I think can be had for £1k

I spent £200 on a cg125 1984 that gave me 1,500+miles have now bought a 2006 XR125 for £950. People say oh you want a bigger bike but to be honest I can keep up with town, urban and rural traffic and even over take some. It's the dual carriageways that cause a problem. I wouldn't even dream of going on the motorway on a 125

I'm taking the cheap route of CBT (£99), Mod 1 £15.50?, Mod 2 (£75). Then you can work out how much you're paying for the lessons, but they include the hire of the bike too which is good as you'll probably drop it

I think the DAS is probably good if you've been on bikes before, but I want to get some experience before moving onto a bigger bike.

I don't think you should be allowed on a motorbike if you can't do the CBT in a day. I had a quick intro too 1st time on a motorbike in a poorly lit car park in Oxford, picked it up really quickly having cycled a push bike all my life, including down hill mountain biking and long distance cycling. The only hard bit for non car users would be the road navigation and rules? I suppose that's just another thing to worry about. But most of the day is spent off the road. Do admit I seemed to progress quicker than the other attendees. All 5 of them lol. One lady had crashed her last bike on a CBT into a warehouse on the estate in Witney. So they told her to come back and try a scooter

You got the right speedo cable for the year of your bike. Is it an after market one? Most accurate way is a GPS device on a level road.

Looking at the hayne's manual

"Failure of the main bearings is usually evident in the form of

an audible rumble from the bottom end of the engine,

accompanied by vibration. The vibration will be most noticeable

through the footrests."

I'm guessing this is probably related? The main bearings failing would allow the crank free play to more than specified

"A certain amount of side play is intentional, and should be

between 0-05 - 0-30 mm (0-002 - 0012 in) on a new crankshaft.

The maximum allowable side play is 0-80 mm (0032 in)

and can be checked with a feeler gauge between the flywheel

face and the edge of the connecting rod."

My right foot can hurt so much lately that I have to take it off the foot rest, thought it was to do with me tightening the chain or just a coincidence?

The crank shaft seal is in the stator which comes away from the engine. There is also an o ring which i have replaced too but its still leaking.

I read some where that the bearing seal maybe leaking allowing too much pressure through.

Is it possible to put it on the wrong way? Does the spring side face inward or outward? also is it possible for the actual crank metal to become so worn that it is no longer able to hold a seal with the rubber?

26,000+km on the clock.