WD-40

There's some pictures of a good front end https://www.xdalys.lt/en/honda-swing-125-springs-suspension-front_shock-absorbers

My first bike was a 125. The main reason I bought it was the girl selling it had massive tits

Yeah I'll stay out of it too. fastbob probably knows it inside out if it was his bike

I'd try putting the tap to prime first, that's the easiest thing to do. That bypasses the vacuum control part of the tap so the fuel is gravity fed from the tank to the carb. If that sorts it the fuel tap is the problem and it might just need a clean or a rebuild kit https://www.wemoto.com/bikes/kawasaki/er-5_er_500_a1/96-97/picture/fuel_tap_right

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Most bike idle at around 1200RPM. Turn it in a few turns and see if that sorts it. If the idle screw doesn't sort it try putting the choke on a bit. Does it run better with the choke on? If it does it means the bike is running too lean and you probably have a blocked pilot jet. You would have to take the carb out and clean it.

 

Hi no I’ve not adjusted the idle screw yet. The thing is if i just start the bike like say first thing tomorrow it will just sit there running fine. Then if I take it out and go round block it will be ok for so long I’ll stop at junctions and it’s sound sits there at about 1200. But then five minutes in it just starts to lose it. Can’t seem to stop with out cutting out unless hold revs

You can probably rule out idle speed screw then. If that was the problem it would never idle right. Could be a lot of things. It could be losing spark on a cylinder or it could be fuel supply related. Like a kinked breather or a dodgy vacuum fuel tap. Do they have a vacuum cut off taps? If it does maybe it's faulty and not got enough vacuum to open properly at idle. That's just a guess though. Not sure what the setup is on the ER5

Have you tried adjusting the idle screw? Most bike idle at around 1200RPM. Turn it in a few turns and see if that sorts it. If the idle screw doesn't sort it try putting the choke on a bit. Does it run better with the choke on? If it does it means the bike is running too lean and you probably have a blocked pilot jet. You would have to take the carb out and clean it.

Try it again with the engine warmed see what it goes up to. Then try it with some oil down the cylinder. If the compression goes up a lot with oil in the cylinder the rings, piston, cylinder are likely worn.

Ok... so done a compression test, 75..

Was that test done on a warmed up engine, good battery and throttle held fully open?

Here's a bit of info on the new rules for buying batteries.

https://www.yuasa.co.uk/bike/motorcycle-epp-regulations-all-you-need-to-know/

You could get yourself a Honda or Yamaha for same price

https://www.honda.co.uk/motorcycles/range/125cc/cb125f-2015/specifications.html

https://www.yamaha-motor.eu/gb/en/products/motorcycles/urban-mobility/ys125/

https://www.khmotorcycles.co.uk/ksr_moto/ksr-moto/new-ksr-moto-bikes/125cc/2018ksrtw125sm.htm

What I can't figure out is, has it stopped starting or started stopping?

Hi Andy. Sorry for your loss. If it was running when it was put in storage you could probably get it going again with some fresh fuel and a new battery. If it doesn't start you could take the carbs out and give them a clean or give them to a mechanic to be cleaned. Shouldn't take much to get her going. It would be worth a lot more as a runner

A few of the posts on this thread look like dealers pretending to be owners

Fair play to her. Where there's a will there's a way

He must step off it

This might give you some encouragement and inspiration

My advice is book whatever needs to be booked and go for it. When you get a bike you will want to be commuting more often instead of less

I agree. Have you done a compression test on it?

I have a KTM 525 SX 2006 while the bike can sit in the shed and then noting can be touched 2 kicks it will start but when I’m out riding it if it cuts out or I simply just turn it off it will take me 5 minutes to get it back on even with the choke for the warm engine what could the problem be I tried regulating the pin in the carb up 1 or down 1 either way it’s not making a difference really don’t get it fairly frustrating out in the field aswell

Seems that bike has a hot start valve on the carb to make hot starts easier. Maybe you're not using it right. Read the owner's manual for more info

http://pdfstream.manualsonline.com/4/44632692-b866-53f4-bd3d-50b1bc5c5f57.pdf

And here's some more info on starting copied from here https://dirtrider.net/forums3/threads/hard-start-wr-400.161400/

This was originally posted on the Yamaha USA website around the time the YZ250F first came out.

To further enhance the enjoyment of these products, please follow the step-by-step instructions as explained by Doug Dubach, Four-Stroke Motocross Champion and Yamaha test rider. These helpful tips will ensure quick and easy starting of your Yamaha four-stroke motorcycle.

COLD ENGINE STARTING:

1.Make sure the bike has fuel, then turn on fuel petcock.

2.Pull out choke knob (black knob on left side of the carburetor).

3.Prime the engine by giving the throttle two full turns (only if the bike has not been started in a day or two).

4.Apply firm pressure to the kick-starter with your foot until you hit distinct resistance (this is the compression stroke/hard spot).

5.While keeping pressure on the kick-starter, pull in the compression release lever and push the kick-starter past the compression stroke/hard spot. The kick-starter needs to only move about 1 to 2 inches past the hard spot. That is all!

6.Release the compression release lever and return the kick-starter to the top

7.Now, kick to start. Do not touch the throttle, as the engine will start and idle on it's own

8.If the bike does not start, repeat steps 4 through 7 only until the engine starts.

HOT ENGINE STARTING

1.Pull out the hot start knob (red knob on the left side of the carburetor).

2.Follow steps 4 through 7 until engine starts.

3.You may have to apply some throttle after the engine starts until you get the hot start knob pushed back in because the carburetor is sending a lean mixture while the hot start knob is out.

The only difference between hot and cold starting is which knob you use, choke or hot start. There is no need to deviate from these simple steps. Remember, DO NOT touch the throttle during hot or cold starting. Also, there is no reason to prime the engine again on the same day of riding.

OTHER HELPFUL TIPS

It helps to become comfortable with steps 4 through 7. By becoming familiar with these steps you will become more efficient and will be able to perform them quicker. The faster you can get through steps 4 through 7 the quicker you will get going.

You need to give the engine what it wants! Understand that the choke will give the engine a rich mixture and the hot start will give the engine a lean mixture. If you have kicked the engine several times during a cold starting procedure and it still won't start, maybe it has too much fuel. Don't be afraid to push the choke back in and use the hot start, even though the engine is cold, this will give the engine a lean mixture and that might be just what it wants.

Again, make sure you don't go more than an inch or two past the hard spot when setting up your kick, and return the kick tarter all the way to the top, especially on the 250F. This will ensure that you get a proper kick and make your race day more enjoyable.

Have you tried turning the idle screw down? Is there enough slack on the throttle cable? Any intake vacuum leaks? Is the choke cable definitely working?

Another way to break them free is pull the clutch lever in put it in gear and push the bike forward. If you don't use the bike regularly I wouldn't replace them because the new ones will probably just end up sticking too.

Did you have the problem before you adjusted the valves or only after? Did you do any other work at the same time?

Are you sure you were top dead center on the compression stroke when you adjusted them? And that you weren't on top dead center the exhaust stroke? If you adjusted them on the exhaust stroke they will be wrong. You should check them again.

Did you pay a mechanic to do the valve clearances or did you do it yourself? Did you have the problems before the valve clearance was done or did they only start after?

I'm surprised they're legal to wear. Clearly trying to make people think you're police