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mattycoops43

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Posts posted by mattycoops43

  1. Many bikes don't have an oil pressure light, only an oil level warning light. I found this out when I changed the oil pump on my fazer and found it still flickered the light on after 'sustained acceleration' (Severn bridge drag strip, I mean tolls). It was burning a bit of oil over time and then when it got a bit low (still over minimum) it would swirl in the sump and show as low level,


    Lots of bike engines burn a bit of oil through use, and have small sumps so show as low quite quickly.


    Get it assessed by someone to find out. You could still be being paranoid because the light came on. A preliminary check would be free or very cheap. (it would be if you came to our garage anyway)

  2. You need to get someone who knows what they are doing to have a proper look. Its all guess work otherwise.


    However, unless you were screwing the engine at the time, they can run for a short time with low engine pressure before major damage occurs.


    If you're not in the know, the sound you are hearing could be something minor or it could be major, it's possible you're hearing a noise which is nothing drastic, but are paranoid about it because of what happened.


    Check for oil leaks first, is it losing it in a big way?

  3. Many will disagree, but unless you ride like Rossi, as long as it is the same class of tyre, you won't have a problem in normal day to day use. Just make sure they are similar softness. I have don e it myself and bought various bikes with mixed tyres and never had an issue.


    What you don't want is a hard tyre on the front and a soft on the back, you always want the back to go first if one has to go.


  4. Can't say I'm bothered by people that don't nod back for me it's more about when bikers don't stop when you're in trouble in terms of broken down, every time I've pulled over with my hazards on the bikes just carry on past.


    So much for the "biker community" :roll:

     


    Try putting your helmet by your back wheel, that's the sign.

  5. "any ideas as to how these work.."


    Well, you fit it, stand back and go 'oooo that looks pretty', then you fire it up and think ' oh, it's a bit lumpy at tickover now', then you go for a ride and think 'oh, it's not pulling like it did before'. Maybe it needs a service.


    Then you run it for a while, and the oil on the filter picks up dust as it should and it starts to richen up (assuming you don't strip it and clean it about once a month as it's now an exposed filter) so it goes better for a while, then it gets more dirty and it starts to run like a bag of poo as the filter gets more and more dirty, then you think, sod this, can't be bothered with the hassle and you fit the original back on and get an immediate power boost and reliability increase.


    They know what they are on about those Japanese guys!


    :booty:

  6. Yes, dead easy. Get a tool for about £30 the one that is like chunky pair of pliers is best as it can be used in place on the car, not just in a vice. Obviously that's to flare the ends.


    Get a decent selection of male and female ends too, they are pennies and the old ones always gets wrecked undoing as they are invariably seized in.

  7. Oh gosh, lets all comment on someone else speeding because we all ride to the speed limit ALL THE TIME!


    To be fair, the rate he is going past them it looks to me like the other traffic is going really slowly, and at the speed he is going, they wouldn't be able to swerve across in time to hit him because of their slow speed. Very hard to judge without being there in the flesh, but certainly not the worst crimes I have seen on the road TODAY.

  8. I had links seized on my Storm chain, but it was in otherwise good nick, so I put it in a carrier bag, then drenched it in WD40, and then used pliers at first then fingers to bend the seized links back and fore and they soon freed up.


    I have had several very early 80s jap bikes that were 70s models. The worst thing was 80s tyres, they were terrifying over manhole covers.

  9. What Stu said.


    OR


    Carb rubbers (where they mount on the engine) are cracking and letting air in (they are known for it)


    OR


    One coil pack breaking down, the vibing is it dropping onto 3 cylinders


    I did thousands of miles on mine and those three issues are the only things that ever made it run rough.


    Carb clean IS simple, but getting the carbs off a fazer is not if you have not worked on bikes a lot. You have to take battery out and move the filter and battery box back to allow clearance and the connections on the cables etc are extremely tight to get into, plus it has tiny water hoses to heat the carbs, they perish and need to be replaced when you do the job. All simple stuff but maybe not if you're unsure.


    I would rule out coil pack unless it gets worse in the wet, and you can SEE the carb rubbers cracking if they go, they physically crack and you can see when the bike runs the carbs bounce in and out with the suction. If they are cracked this shows the cracks. Rubbers are about £80 from wemoto or used good ones on the bay £40

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