Bandit 600 Problem HELP ME PLEASE

[Guest]

Hi I have a 2001 bandit 600 on friday last week i got on the bike turned the key pressed the starter button and then the dash went blank and it would not start I have checked the battery got 12.8v checked the indicator/side stand switch thats fine when i have the igni on the voltage drops to below 1v i have no heated grips or power related accsessorys i am at the end of my rope on this somone help me plz

[Guest akey]

Hi, go pop into newbies and say hi.

Sounds like there is a problem with the starter motor or starter circuit but without being there it is difficult to diagnose, sorry.

[Guest]

just want to make sure i heard you right...

so with the ignition off you have 12.8v at the battery and on you have 1v......... thats an 11.8v draw...

[Guest]

usual bandit things

is the clutch pulled in (theres a safety switch...)

can you access the starter relay... (behind the left side panel..)

putting a screwdriver across both terminals will provide electric to the starter motor..... this will determine whether the motor works, or not..

[Pete]

Also check your fuses (next to battery under seat)

[Guest]

Yes with the igni on there is a 11.8v draw I have also shorted across the starter relay and there was no action from the starter so is the starter knackered or do i need to test the starter relay

[Guest]

Yes with the igni on there is a 11.8v draw I have also shorted across the starter relay and there was no action from the starter so is the starter knackered or do i need to test the starter relay

you've bypassed the relay, but the 11.8v draw still bothers me... before looking at the starter, you need to figure out where that power is going...

have you anything on, lights etc,.... something is sapping your power... regulator/rectifier...

see here, longwinded i know...

Voltage Drop in Starting Circuit:

Connections in a high amperage circuit such as a starter can do strange things. They can appear to be clean and tight, yet at the same time they can be the cause of a starting system failure. A dirty or loose connection will pass 12 volts (nominal) through it at low amperage with little or no current loss, yet at higher loads it will not be able to handle the amperage and the starter will either turn too slowly to start the engine, or won't turn at all.

Fortunately, a loose or dirty connection has a few distinct characteristics that make it easy to spot--if you know what to look for. Any time there is a bad connection; there will be a voltage drop across it. Electricity is never "lost", it is simply converted to another form of energy, be it light, heat, motion, etc, or a combination of two or more. Loose connections in a starting circuit will get hot almost invariably when subjected to high current loads, such as attempting to start (heat). A very bad connection will arc (light). Touching a very hot connection will make one draw one's hand back quickly (motion). Voltage drop is measured by placing one lead of the volt meter on one part of the connection (i.e. the battery post) and the other lead on the other part of the connection (i.e. the battery cable connector). When the engine is cranked over, the voltmeter will read voltage if there is resistance in the connection. Any connection is considered "bad" if there is more than .2 volts showing across the connection while cranking. There should not be more than .5 volts total loss from the positive post of the battery to the starter motor connection. This includes the starter solenoid as well as all cable connections. To do a voltage drop test, first remove the necessary body panels to expose both terminals of the battery. Set the voltmeter on a low scale (3-5 volts DC is good). Put the negative lead of the meter on the negative battery post and put the positive lead on the negative battery cable end. Crank the engine with the kill switch engaged to keep the engine from starting. The reading on the voltmeter should be .2 volts or less. If it is more than .2 volts, remove the connection, clean it, and tighten it securely. Repeat the test until results are satisfactory, and then connect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative battery cable end, and the positive voltmeter lead to the other end of the negative cable. Crank again. If the reading is not within specs, remove and clean the connection and test again. When the test results are satisfactory, put the negative voltmeter lead on the frame end of the negative battery lead, and put the positive voltmeter lead on a good frame ground. Crank again. If the reading is not within specs, remove and clean the connection and test again. Testing the positive side of the circuit is similar. Start with the positive battery post and the cable connector, this time put the positive lead of the voltmeter on the positive battery post and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on the connector of the positive battery cable. Crank and repair as necessary as above. Repeat the sequence for every single connection down the line all the way to the starter motor. Remember to check the connection between crimped terminals and the actual cable. Corrosion can set up inside a crimped connector and make it useless even though it looks clean and tight on the outside. Use the sharp point on the voltmeter probe to puncture the insulation of the cable when doing a voltage drop test on terminal ends.

When testing from one terminal of the solenoid to the other, the voltmeter will read full battery voltage until the starter switch is pressed. For this reason one should do one of the following:

Set the voltmeter to a scale of 12 volts or more until the starter is engaged, then switch to a lower scale to read voltage drop across the solenoid, or:

Have an assistant to crank the engine, and make the voltmeter connection after the starter has engaged.

In either case, set the voltmeter to a scale of 12 volts or more, or remove the voltmeter connection prior to stopping cranking to avoid damage to the voltmeter.

A voltage drop of more than .2 volts across the starter solenoid calls for the repair or replacement of the solenoid. Total starting circuit voltage drop is measured from the positive battery post to the terminal on the starter motor. This connection will read full battery voltage when connected, but should show less than .5 volts while cranking. Any reading over .5 volts indicates a voltage drop somewhere in the starting circuit which must be repaired.

taken from here, but the principles the same..

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-R ... agna-2.htm

[Guest]

jeezus, that was some post ! Have you tried a different battery ? Yours could be goosed

[Grumpy Old Git]

Ignition off - Select 3rd gear - Push bike and ensure engine turns over.

Select Neutral - Ignition on - pull clutch - Try Starter. If still no joy (and battery volts drop to 1v at Battery) can only be a couple of things which are easily checked:

1. Ignition On, Full beam and Stop Light on - Battery voltage drops below about 11.5v - Duff battery.

2. Disconnect feed to starter motor - Ignition on - press start - voltage drops at battery - Short in wiring harness.

3. Ceased starter motor - check by removal and try turning.

4. Ceased gearbox (should be obvious from start of this post).

Good luck

GOG

[Guest]

Yes with the igni on there is a 11.8v draw I have also shorted across the starter relay and there was no action from the starter so is the starter knackered or do i need to test the starter relay

you've bypassed the relay, but the 11.8v draw still bothers me... before looking at the starter, you need to figure out where that power is going...

have you anything on, lights etc,.... something is sapping your power... regulator/rectifier...

see here, longwinded i know...

Voltage Drop in Starting Circuit:

Connections in a high amperage circuit such as a starter can do strange things. They can appear to be clean and tight, yet at the same time they can be the cause of a starting system failure. A dirty or loose connection will pass 12 volts (nominal) through it at low amperage with little or no current loss, yet at higher loads it will not be able to handle the amperage and the starter will either turn too slowly to start the engine, or won't turn at all.

Fortunately, a loose or dirty connection has a few distinct characteristics that make it easy to spot--if you know what to look for. Any time there is a bad connection; there will be a voltage drop across it. Electricity is never "lost", it is simply converted to another form of energy, be it light, heat, motion, etc, or a combination of two or more. Loose connections in a starting circuit will get hot almost invariably when subjected to high current loads, such as attempting to start (heat). A very bad connection will arc (light). Touching a very hot connection will make one draw one's hand back quickly (motion). Voltage drop is measured by placing one lead of the volt meter on one part of the connection (i.e. the battery post) and the other lead on the other part of the connection (i.e. the battery cable connector). When the engine is cranked over, the voltmeter will read voltage if there is resistance in the connection. Any connection is considered "bad" if there is more than .2 volts showing across the connection while cranking. There should not be more than .5 volts total loss from the positive post of the battery to the starter motor connection. This includes the starter solenoid as well as all cable connections. To do a voltage drop test, first remove the necessary body panels to expose both terminals of the battery. Set the voltmeter on a low scale (3-5 volts DC is good). Put the negative lead of the meter on the negative battery post and put the positive lead on the negative battery cable end. Crank the engine with the kill switch engaged to keep the engine from starting. The reading on the voltmeter should be .2 volts or less. If it is more than .2 volts, remove the connection, clean it, and tighten it securely. Repeat the test until results are satisfactory, and then connect the negative voltmeter lead to the negative battery cable end, and the positive voltmeter lead to the other end of the negative cable. Crank again. If the reading is not within specs, remove and clean the connection and test again. When the test results are satisfactory, put the negative voltmeter lead on the frame end of the negative battery lead, and put the positive voltmeter lead on a good frame ground. Crank again. If the reading is not within specs, remove and clean the connection and test again. Testing the positive side of the circuit is similar. Start with the positive battery post and the cable connector, this time put the positive lead of the voltmeter on the positive battery post and put the negative lead of the voltmeter on the connector of the positive battery cable. Crank and repair as necessary as above. Repeat the sequence for every single connection down the line all the way to the starter motor. Remember to check the connection between crimped terminals and the actual cable. Corrosion can set up inside a crimped connector and make it useless even though it looks clean and tight on the outside. Use the sharp point on the voltmeter probe to puncture the insulation of the cable when doing a voltage drop test on terminal ends.

When testing from one terminal of the solenoid to the other, the voltmeter will read full battery voltage until the starter switch is pressed. For this reason one should do one of the following:

Set the voltmeter to a scale of 12 volts or more until the starter is engaged, then switch to a lower scale to read voltage drop across the solenoid, or:

Have an assistant to crank the engine, and make the voltmeter connection after the starter has engaged.

In either case, set the voltmeter to a scale of 12 volts or more, or remove the voltmeter connection prior to stopping cranking to avoid damage to the voltmeter.

A voltage drop of more than .2 volts across the starter solenoid calls for the repair or replacement of the solenoid. Total starting circuit voltage drop is measured from the positive battery post to the terminal on the starter motor. This connection will read full battery voltage when connected, but should show less than .5 volts while cranking. Any reading over .5 volts indicates a voltage drop somewhere in the starting circuit which must be repaired.

taken from here, but the principles the same..

http://en.allexperts.com/q/Motorcycle-R ... agna-2.htm

 

[Guest]

could be the regulator, but youd need to confirm before heading out and buying one, Techno lost battery power and dash lights on our run out, turns out the regulator is suspect...

[K3zzer]

I had a similiar problem to this, what I did was:

Put it in 2nd gear, held in the clutch and rolled my bike down a bank. Released the clutch and hit the ignition to jump start the bike.

I rode it around for say 30minutes, often leaving it in neutral standing up. It seems my battery was dead or something, but by jump starting it I recharged the battery. Bike's been working fine ever since.