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ZZR1100 C CYCLINDER HEAD


handyandy24
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Do the camshafts need to be removed from the cylinder head in order to access the bolts which will allow the head to come away from the main block. The Haynes section on this is poor. It kind of skips the Cylinder head cover removal and illustrations are poor. I know there are some ZZR lovers here. Any help would be great


Andy

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if you look at the gasket there is a bolt on each side of the pistons = 10, and to get at would need the cams out... just be sure to lay everything out and put bits together that should be together, i'e no1 valve with spring, and no2 with bits, etc, etc, makes it easier on re-assembly..

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havent had to remove the valves +springs. removed the cams. cam chain, tensioner and such. taken the head off now exposing the pistons. the engine running has a knock he thought it was from left side no1 little end moving from side to side. unfortuantely on inspection there is nothing obiously wrong with any of the pistons, gudgion (spelling) seem ok. Job for another day though is removing and examining them. Any obvious things to look for?

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i would have checked everything externally before removing the head, like exhaust headers, and anything bolted on.... one of the guys on here was chasing a noise and it turned out to be an exhaust clamp under the bike.....

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Dont worry the obvious was checked before the head was removed!!!!!! Any hints on what to look for re.faulty piston

 

scoring of the cylinder bore and/or bust rings would be the obvious choice.. colour/soot another.. also irregular movement of the conrod..


sure its not a bust valve??

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  • 1 month later...

I am now trying to put the top of the engine back over the pistons. ie. get the pistons back in the barrels. This is proving tricky, Ive been told this is a fiddly time consuming exercise but does any1 have any tips, first time ive done it so dont have a nak for it yet. At the mo we are packing under the pistons with a rag to keep them stable and trying to compress the rings one at a time with our hands to get the pistons in the barrels when we lower the head back on. any tips would be great

andy

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see if any of this helps :lol:


Haynes Manual translations


Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise.


Haynes: This is a snug fit.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: This is a tight fit.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer.


Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...

Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.


Haynes: Pry...

Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...


Haynes: Undo...

Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size).


Haynes: Retain tiny spring...

Translation: PINGGGG - "Jesus, where the hell did that go?"


Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...

Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers dig out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two).


Haynes: Lightly...

Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your

forehead are throbbing then clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Weekly checks...

Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it.


Haynes: Routine maintenance...

Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned.


Haynes: One spanner rating.

Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up?


Haynes: Two spanner rating.

Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).


Haynes: Three spanner rating.

Translation: Make sure you won't need your motorbike/car for a couple of days.


Haynes: Four spanner rating.

Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you?


Haynes: Five spanner rating.

Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in/on it again.


Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...

Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.


Haynes: Compress...

Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some molegrips and a hammer...


Haynes: Inspect...

Translation: Squint at it really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your

wife/husband/partner "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"


Haynes: Carefully...

Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions.


Haynes: Retaining nut...

Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.


Haynes: Get an assistant...

Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.


Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.

Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much

harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.


Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places.


Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...

Translation: Snap off...


Haynes: Using a suitable drift...

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Everyday toolkit

Translation: RAC Card & Mobile Phone


Haynes: Apply moderate heat...

Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother.

Alternatively, clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Index

Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do.

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you need at least 2 piston ring clamps and a mate... one of you lowers the head the other offers up 2 pistons, then offer up the other 2,

piston ring clamps compress the rings to enable them to slide into the bore.

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see if any of this helps :lol:


Haynes Manual translations


Haynes: Rotate anticlockwise.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer anticlockwise.


Haynes: This is a snug fit.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: This is a tight fit.

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with a hammer.


Haynes: As described in Chapter 7...

Translation: That'll teach you not to read through before you start. Now you are looking at scary photos of the inside of a gearbox.


Haynes: Pry...

Translation: Hammer a screwdriver into...


Haynes: Undo...

Translation: Go buy a tin of WD40 (giant economy size).


Haynes: Retain tiny spring...

Translation: PINGGGG - "Jesus, where the hell did that go?"


Haynes: Press and rotate to remove bulb...

Translation: OK - that's the glass bit off, now fetch some good pliers dig out the bayonet part (and maybe a plaster or two).


Haynes: Lightly...

Translation: Start off lightly and build up till the veins on your

forehead are throbbing then clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Weekly checks...

Translation: If it isn't broken don't fix it.


Haynes: Routine maintenance...

Translation: If it isn't broken, it's about to be. We warned.


Haynes: One spanner rating.

Translation: An infant could do this... so how did you manage to **** it up?


Haynes: Two spanner rating.

Translation: Now you may think that you can do this because two is a low, teensy weensy number... but you also thought the wiring diagram was a map of the Tokyo underground (in fact that would have been more use to you).


Haynes: Three spanner rating.

Translation: Make sure you won't need your motorbike/car for a couple of days.


Haynes: Four spanner rating.

Translation: You're not seriously considering this are you?


Haynes: Five spanner rating.

Translation: OK - but don't ever carry your loved ones in/on it again.


Haynes: If not, you can fabricate your own special tool like this...

Translation: Hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha.


Haynes: Compress...

Translation: Squeeze with all your might, jump up and down on it, throw it at the garage wall, then find some molegrips and a hammer...


Haynes: Inspect...

Translation: Squint at it really hard and pretend you know what you are looking at, then declare in a loud knowing voice to your

wife/husband/partner "Yep, as I thought, it's going to need a new one"


Haynes: Carefully...

Translation: You are about to suffer deep abrasions.


Haynes: Retaining nut...

Translation: Yes, that's it, that big spherical blob of rust.


Haynes: Get an assistant...

Translation: Prepare to humiliate yourself in front of someone you know.


Haynes: Turning the engine will be easier with the spark plugs removed.

Translation: However, starting the engine afterwards will be much

harder. Once that sinking pit of your stomach feeling has subsided, you can start to feel deeply ashamed as you gingerly refit the spark plugs.


Haynes: Refitting is the reverse sequence to removal.

Translation: Yeah, right. But you swear in different places.


Haynes: Prise away plastic locating pegs...

Translation: Snap off...


Haynes: Using a suitable drift...

Translation: Clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Everyday toolkit

Translation: RAC Card & Mobile Phone


Haynes: Apply moderate heat...

Translation: Unless you have a blast furnace, don't bother.

Alternatively, clamp with molegrips then beat repeatedly with hammer.


Haynes: Index

Translation: List of all the things in the book, bar what you need to do.

 

:laugh: :laugh: :stupid:


Thats so true! haha

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Thanks Walkney

Hadnt spotted those on ebay, just the ones which dont open out fully and therefore be trapped on the rod. Have purchased 2 and will give it a go next weekend. Hopefully can get it done as this is messing up our momentum a bit.

Mightycaz I live in north wales on the way to the ponderosa. Close to the liver in if you know it. Ill be lucky to get out to work tomz

Thanks for the help ill let you know how we get on


andy

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