daffyduck1962 Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 I have an engine mount bolt (lower front) on my wife's 400 Bros, which is a little stiff to move. It is a steel bolt passing through a steel rail at either end. It then passes through two steel spacers, one either end on the inside of frame rail, and in the centre is the engine block, made of alloy.It has been sprayed with WD40, "Freeze-it" releasing fluid (constricts the metal allowing the releasing fluid to get to work), I have heated it with a hand held blow torch. I have tried to shock it free with a lump hammer.It pushed the nut down the thread. If I put a socket on the bolt head and try to free it off it turns at the head end but not at the nut end.I can't apply heat at the nut end of the bolt because there is a lead coming from the front of the engine close to the spacer and the frame rail.Can anyone help? I'm stuck for ideas. Quote
Rod York Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 sounds like you have tried most tricksWD40 & leave for 48 hrs ( penetrate)- I would imagine you have done that?Cut the lead & then reapply afterwards?- allowing the heat to be used..Sunday tomorrow ....church maybe Quote
Guest Hodgy Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 Problem is the steel bolt going through the alloy engine leads to the dissimilar metals siezing together, unfortunately a common problem on a few bikes, take care not to crack the engine by trying too hard! Sometimes the only solution is to cut the bolt at either side of the engine and then once the engine is out, drill through the bolt. Quote
fredc Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 If it's turning at the bolt end but not the nut end the bolt is not siezed in the alloy It sounds like the nut is stuck to the frame, is it welded on?If you undo the bolt several turns hitting the bolt head should break the nut freeor you could just remove the bolt and leave the nut where it is Quote
CamChain Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 I have an engine mount bolt (lower front) on my wife's 400 Bros, which is a little stiff to move. It is a steel bolt passing through a steel rail at either end. It then passes through two steel spacers, one either end on the inside of frame rail, and in the centre is the engine block, made of alloy.It has been sprayed with WD40, "Freeze-it" releasing fluid (constricts the metal allowing the releasing fluid to get to work), I have heated it with a hand held blow torch. I have tried to shock it free with a lump hammer.It pushed the nut down the thread. If I put a socket on the bolt head and try to free it off it turns at the head end but not at the nut end.I can't apply heat at the nut end of the bolt because there is a lead coming from the front of the engine close to the spacer and the frame rail.Can anyone help? I'm stuck for ideas. When you say "it pushed the nut down the thread", that sounds like you will have wrecked the thread. Try taking the weight of the engine off the bolt by taking the weight via a jack and wood. If you have wrecked the thread at the nut end, (bolt or nut), then tap the bolt at the nut end using a drift that fits through the nut. Have someone turning the bolt at the same time. Always support the engine whenever you undo mounting bolts, it takes the strain off the bolts and makes them easier to undo. Quote
Guest Posted January 8, 2011 Posted January 8, 2011 Any chance of a couple of pictures so we can see what you are dealing with.I do not use WD 40 as a releasing agent agent any more, because I have found plus gas does the job better. Quote
TC Posted January 9, 2011 Posted January 9, 2011 Could you get a small Angle grinder (Dremmel type size tool) to cut the Nut in half so it falls away and then tap the long bolt back through the hole.If it turns it should be able to be tapped back.Like someone mentioned take the weight of the engine off the Bolt by supporting it. Quote
Guest Posted January 9, 2011 Posted January 9, 2011 Could you get a small Angle grinder (Dremmel type size tool) to cut the Nut in half so it falls away and then tap the long bolt back through the hole.If it turns it should be able to be tapped back.Like someone mentioned take the weight of the engine off the Bolt by supporting it. That's knackered, and as TC says the end will have to be cut off, looks like a dremmel is the only solution now. Quote
daffyduck1962 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Posted January 13, 2011 THE ENGINE IS OUT But the bolt is still in the engine!!!!!!!!! Angle grinders are your best friend and your worst enemy in times of deperation. The left spacer and the engine is where the bolt has corroded completely.All I've got to do is get it out of the engine now. Simples!??? Anyone know a small engineering firm or similar in Essex or nearby who could help?F***k**g Honda. They ain't as clever as they would have us believe. Quote
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