Brake question..

[GazW]

I changed my pads on the front the other day.. Did it by encouraging the pistons into the caliper and not unhooking the system.

Now my 'biting point' seems to have moved closer to the bars. The brakes work. I have no doubt I could lock the front if I anchor on.. I checked them before riding and was very careful on the first ride..

Should I bleed them to be on the safe side?

[megawatt]

Hope you cleaned the pistons before pushing them into the caliper ??? You should have removed the pads, pumped the pistons out about 5mm, cleaned the pistons with WD until shiny and then pushed em back in to accept the new pads. By pushing them in without cleaning, you may have pushed dirt onto the seals !!!

[mealexme]

I changed my pads on the front the other day.. Did it by encouraging the pistons into the caliper and not unhooking the system.

Now my 'biting point' seems to have moved closer to the bars. The brakes work. I have no doubt I could lock the front if I anchor on.. I checked them before riding and was very careful on the first ride..

Should I bleed them to be on the safe side?

I think from what you are describing, this is normal. because the pads are thicker than the old ones, you wont have to pull the lever in as far to activate them. As long as they do their job and release when you release the lever then all is good. It may be worth cleaning them, but I never did on mine

[Ingah]

Pads may needs some miles to bed in properly. Bleeding can't hurt, but as megawatt says i do hope you cleaned the pistons! Otherwise you might as well have it off again and do it properly.

[GazW]

Should have clarified. I did clean them, I used an old toothbrush, although I didn't push them out 5mm I did make sure they were clean before clamping them back in.

Alex, it's the other way mate, I have to pull the lever further before the brakes bite. That's what had me confused

[mealexme]

Should have clarified. I did clean them, I used an old toothbrush, although I didn't push them out 5mm I did make sure they were clean before clamping them back in.

Alex, it's the other way mate, I have to pull the lever further before the brakes bite. That's what had me confused

Oh right, before bleeding them, get a cable tie and tie it round the brake lever and handlebar over night, see if that helps as it should remove air bubbles from the lines, apparently

[Ingah]

Should have clarified. I did clean them, I used an old toothbrush, although I didn't push them out 5mm I did make sure they were clean before clamping them back in.

Alex, it's the other way mate, I have to pull the lever further before the brakes bite. That's what had me confused

Oh right, before bleeding them, get a cable tie and tie it round the brake lever and handlebar over night, see if that helps as it should remove air bubbles from the lines, apparently

I thought that was for after the brakes have been bled, rather than before?

[eastanglianbiker]

moving the pistons back into he caliper wont push air into the system so its pointless trying to bleed out what isnt there.

[Stu]

Should have clarified. I did clean them, I used an old toothbrush, although I didn't push them out 5mm I did make sure they were clean before clamping them back in.

Alex, it's the other way mate, I have to pull the lever further before the brakes bite. That's what had me confused

Oh right, before bleeding them, get a cable tie and tie it round the brake lever and handlebar over night, see if that helps as it should remove air bubbles from the lines, apparently

 

This doesn't work its a myth

It can't hurt bleeding but I suspect there's a piston sticking now try removing the pads again and cleaning with brake cleaner pump the piston's out this time though just make sure they don't pop out

[Colin the Bear]

Make sure you have fitted the retaining springs and clips properly. Had this once when a spring clip had moved slightly and was fouling.

The lever needing to move further may mean that something is pushing the piston back in further than it needs to.

The cable tie thing worked for me and was recommended because it worked for others. I can't think of a logical explanation of why or how it should work but it does in a lot of cases.

[Tango]

It may be just the new pads......which brand did you go for? Also as has been said above, the pad guide pins can corrode or get grooves in them....so it results in the pads not moving correctly when the brakes are applied. Also the callipers should normally be floating....so if that movement is restricted the calliper may be biassed off to one side.

Just a couple of ideas to throw into the mix......

[GazW]

I just got some EBC's, think they are just sintered.

I guess I'll just buy some new seals anyway and overhaul the caliper properly.

If a jobs worth doing and all that..

[Tango]

I just got some EBC's, think they are just sintered.

I guess I'll just buy some new seals anyway and overhaul the caliper properly.

If a jobs worth doing and all that..

 

If you're gonna do that replace the pins too.....they generally aren't that expensive and the pads will move better with nice new shiny ones in..... But the pads themselves may need a bit more pressure on them to bite.....so, overhauling the callipers is a good thing to do, but you may not see any great difference in the overall performance of the brakes....

[Colin the Bear]

And don't forget the proper lubricants. Copperslip etc. where relevant. Less is more.