FZS600 ---Gareth's first Project---

[dispersion]

The success of this project comes down to two things. Whether it rains and money.

At the moment it is both Sunny and I have some monies, so all is good.

I have recently been accepted in to the Corps of the Royal engineers and start training in June. I have also finished my job and having a month or two off to train. In this time I am going to work as hard as I can on my Bike and do the bits and bobs I want to do. I want to use this forum for advice/planning and just a nice check off list.

I am not sure whether I am going to sell my bike when I go in the army or not but needless I intend on treating it as if I am keeping it and putting 100% effort into every job.

Please consider that this is my first mini-type project and some things may seem a 5 minute job but for me it may take a lot longer. I also plan to put up lots of pics!

My to-do List

Strip radiator cover and polish/pain (cant decide)

Remove brake callipers, clean, sand and paint (FRONT)

Remove brake callipers, clean, sand and paint (BACK)

Remove carburettor cover's, sand and polish/paint

Do something with alternator cover (scratched)

Remove and clean/polish side stand

Remove and clean/polish Centre Stand

Remove and polish down pipes

Touch up paint on engine cover (black) and remove scratches and polish metal parts.

Clean and polish swing arm (after removing back wheel - properly get rid of grime)

Remove, sand and polish pillion foot pegs (RIGHT)

Remove, sand and polish back brake peg

Remove sand and polish gear peg (have sanded but while mostly on bike)

Change Plugs

Change/clean Filter

Wait for delivery so I can change to stainless screws and bolts

My Done list

Oil change (about 600 miles ago)

Installed Heated Grips

Remove, sand and polish pillion foot pegs (LEFT)

To some, things on the list might seem trivia or I have missed things so please speak your mind. Also sanding most of today and didn’t realise how long it takes to get a good shine. Will post up pics tomorrow hopefully!

Cheers,

Gareth

[dispersion]

Did my down pipes ocmplete today. However when re-assemeled they dont seem sealed to the engine so I am going to use Sealant gum. Just asking anyone, is there a problem with doing this? or should i not?

[dispersion]

Some pics of the dirt and grime on the down pipes!

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1116.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1117.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1121.jpg

This was mid-sanding/cleaning off the grime, so you can see the difference

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1125.jpg

The final view (Radiator cover is off because it is scratched etc...and needs work on)

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1129.jpg

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1127.jpg

New tank pad, and gae the bike a weel deserved clean

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1130.jpg

The down pipes will have to be re-fitted with gasket sealant and new gasket seals. Hopefully tonight I can find the goods.

Next job - Radiator and brake pad's

[megawatt]

You shouldn't need sealant on downpipes mate. Clean head and pipe ends, make sure threads in head are clean.Insert new exhaust gaskets into head , then pipes. Tighten up evenly, with a final tighten when engine/pipes are hot. Shouldn't have any leaks. Are those pipes mild steel? Did you clean rust off? If so , check for holes and cracks and then paint with High Temperature barbecue paint or similar. If you can, replace mild steel headers with stainless ones.

[dispersion]

right took the bars off again. The 2 ended screws (dont know what they call them) are pretty naff and old and abit stuck in place so going to try and get them out, any suggestions? Also gonna get the new gasket seals (tried using the old ones) tonight and some sealant for the exhaust to pipes.

Now removing those screws will be difficult so any ideas? I tried a good pliars and nothing.

Also the metal part on the downpipes which the have the holes for the screws have some cracks and also one has snapped in half. These cracks were there and have been there for a while,does that matter? From what i see they will still hole the down pipes securly in place and should be no bother.

Thanks

Gareth

[megawatt]

Did you read my post?

[dispersion]

Yes, but what I was trying to say was the screws I tighten the bars up with, one is snapped inside and they are very old screws (guessing from factory) I am going to do what you said but the question now is what do I do about the screw that is stuck? Also round peices of metal which bolt the down pipes inplace are very flimsey/cracking, is that a problem?

[megawatt]

Yes it is mate. Are the pipes stainless or mild steel. Check em for holes n cracks. Stuck stud will be very difficult for you to remove. Put Plusgas or wd40 on it. Post pix of it before trying to undo it or it will cost you a lot of dosh. Don't say bars say pipes or headers if that's what you mean. The pipes are held in with the keeps, they have a big hole in the middle and two 8mm holes for the exhaust studs. I thought one was cracked in the picture. You will have to repair/weld it , especially if it will not come off the pipe. I will pm my number for a chat, if you want my advice?

[dispersion]

Cheers buddy, Here are some pics:

Keeper in half

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1132.jpg

bent and cracked keepers, but there is one thats fine.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1137.jpg

Bolt head

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1135.jpg

Heres the other bolt theres 4 stuck in half way (wont come out) and theres 3 that are out and I will replace.

http://i28.photobucket.com/albums/c210/morpium/IMG_1136.jpg

The point of the job was to make it cleaner, didn't think id find so many problems.

As you can tell, my mechanical knowledge is very little and thought this would be a good way to know more about my bike. Just a shame I have unmasked Loads.

The pipes are stainless steel, aftermarket.

I do have a family friend whos a mechanic which I will probably ring tomorrow. I will also give you a ring afterwards if thats cool, off out soon thats all, got a message so presuming its off you

[dispersion]

Also justing looking on the net for the replacement stud and nut. I havn't found anyone thats yamaha specfic but Im guessing most bike manufacturers use similar ones. So if i measure it etc....Is that right?

[eastanglianbiker]

they will come under general 8mm exhaust stud

[dispersion]

ordered some. Looks like im not gonna be riding much this summer. Army 2nd July This will probably take a while to sort too. Cheers guys

[megawatt]

What are the headers to collector/manifold sections and silencer like mate. The keeps will need welding whilst fitted to the headers, unless you have collets as well? If you can,t sort em, pop em in the post and I,ll do it for ya. The broken stud will need expert removal skills or you could make it worse. Heat and cold is the way to do it. Is the good keep captive on the header?

[dispersion]

What are the headers to collector/manifold sections and silencer like mate. The keeps will need welding whilst fitted to the headers, unless you have collets as well? If you can,t sort em, pop em in the post and I,ll do it for ya. The broken stud will need expert removal skills or you could make it worse. Heat and cold is the way to do it. Is the good keep captive on the header?

 

The headers to collector sections are fine, no cracks or dents etc.. The sections on the collector part needed a good clean but thats been done. The section from pipes to silencer needed a good clean but no cracks.

The keeps will need welding yes, but when I asked a motorcycle mechanice he said you can cut them off and buy new keepers. Is this possible? Collets?

As for the screw I guess I am going to have to find a mechanic that comes to the door. Shouldnt be to much work for them but a small fortune.

I'll pm you my number. I dont want to ring you this early incase your at work.

Cheers

[megawatt]

If the keeps are captive on the headers, you will either have to weld repair them whilst on the headers or cut the end of the header off, fit new keeps and then weld the header. I doubt you will be able to buy new keeps and there is no ther way of holding the headers into the head, whatever your mechanic says Some headers use two split collets to fit between non captive keeps and the head.

[dispersion]

Rightyho!

Looks like im gonna have to go and take it to get welded then!

Cheers for the advice mega.

Im not quite sure what to do with this stuck stud If the headers fit nidely and no leaks with bolt missing I could ride her to a local mechanic (0.5 miles) but it seems mobile mechanics or welders wont come and do it.

I got rid of most of the "half stuck studs" that had enough room for 2 bolts to wrap around, tighten against each other to losen the lower bolt to come off. That in itself was an accomplishment by myself.

Also managed to drill out a screw from my brake resevoir fluis thats been bugging me for a while. But other one is knackered

[megawatt]

It,s gonna cost ya, but if I were you, I,d get an expert on that stud.!

[mattycoops43]

I'm only in Newport, I could chuck a welder in the back of the car and come try weld a nut on the end for a couple quid diesel money? I have done it before, with success, welding will get the stud proper hot, and that breaks the stiction with the rust etc.

[dispersion]

Any idea where one would find such an expert?

Would it be a mechanic, engineer or welder? Every one I have rung dont seem to do house calls.

The only other way is to once i get all the downpipes fied ride it down the local garage and get them to revmove it.

7 studs should hold the pipes in place with no air trouble I think.

Another question which was more my curiosity is why arnt the keepers welded to the headers by the collet? It would seem that if they were it'd be alot more sturdier that way. Im not thinking of getting this done btw just curious.

[megawatt]

An expert is someone who has done it before, preferably more than once , and is successful

I'd take up Matty's offer if I were you, but once the bolt is hot after welding, I would spray it with plumber's freeze spray to help break the bond between the steel stud and alloy head. Again be very careful, coz if the stud breaks in the head, then you have a BIG problem.

The keeps are not welded to the headers to allow flexibility and a good seal when fitting.

[dispersion]

Really Matt? Id chuck you quite abit if you managed to do that! would you any way be able to weld the bars? Or shall I get a garage to do that? Ill txt you mate!

[mattycoops43]

Got your message, Would have a look at bars, have to be careful cos of the safety implications, but will do if doable.

Matt

[dispersion]

Found this which is pretty interesting.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/ZZR-1100-D-DO ... 58901a1919

Yamaha odnt do any, but if thats a 8mm hole and is the right space around my down pipe (not sure on measurements) I am guessing i could cut the keepers off and use somthing like that?

Hate not being on the road atm

[megawatt]

May be the right size if you are lucky?

[dispersion]

Any idea how i find the diamter of the pipes on another bike and the size of the stud holes and how far apart the centres are?

Or is it just try it and find out. Im ognna guess there isnt much difference in pipe sizes on bikes.