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Posted

not long had my bike back from the repair shop and as I still have problems with clutch slipping, Im following advice (re:tmbf) and starting to strip down my bike engine (etc.) myself (despite being a complete novice :oops: ).

hence 2 quick questions;

first - i took the clutch apart (which was fitted as new) to see if it had been soaked, as its wet. Only the outer parts of the rings looked wet/oiled and the inside didnt look wet at all. Would this have much bearing at all on the clutch working well?

second - after id soaked the clutch for ten mins, i was replacing the springs and one of the screws broke off inside the clutch centre :shock: . I wasnt really applying too much pressure either. Is this my fault (and should i be more careful in future) or is it a faulty (cheap!) screw. (luckily i still have my old clutch..).

Thanks in advance.


Btw, when im finished through doing all this, I may be able to start giving advice instead of asking for it all the time :D

Posted

Are you sure you have correct free play on the cable. Sometimes a clutch will slip if the cable is very slightly too taught.


If you take the rear wheel off the ground, using centre stand or some sort of stand, start it up and put it in neutral, if the rear wheel spins quite harsh, then your clutch cable is too taught.


Also as Colin states above, some oils, especially some car oils, have anti friction additives, which don't work atall well with wet motorbike clutches.


You have to be very careful with the bolts inside the clutch, like engine bolts. They only need to be over tightened a tiny bit and you can snap them. Maybe a good idea to buy a torque wrench, just to make sure.

Posted

Something I was always told with engine bolts:


Tighten them to finger tight. Then 1 finger on the spanner, and add another half turn.


You don't need to be cranking them up to the point of both feet on the back wheel and nearly poohing yourself.


When at work, i'll do bolts up until I can't pull the spanner any more, because I know that they aren't going to be undone again until the building comes down, but since clutch's and stuff have to be undone over and over again, less torque is needed.

Posted

thanks very much for the replies everyone. Live and learn with the bolts, i had no idea they were so delicate.

I know the problem isnt the oil becasue it started randomly slipping after id been riding about 200 kms one day. Its had 2 oil changes since then and a clutch change.

I was just wondering if not enough oil on the clutch plates would have made a significant difference.

Ok, back to work!

cheers lads :cheers:

Posted

Did you put new springs in? The springs can go weak with age. Also the friction plates should be soaked in oil for several hours, preferably overnight, before fitting. Did you check the clutch basket for nothing? If the plates are sticking due to notches in the basket you could have this problem.

Posted

cheers, like i said, its a new clutch - plates springs and all. Theyre getting a good soak tonight before they go in again though.

thanks

(btw - i thought youd read my mind at first before you corrected yourself :lol:)

Posted

Is there an adjuster in your clutch mech?


I know on my bike, there is one, that can make the bike drag at the lights and constantly feel like it is on biting point then when going, slip like mad.

On mine it looks like a small screw in the center of the mech.

Posted
thanks, im pretty sure i dont have that on my bike but its worth having a look.

cheers

 

check it out its called a worm drive it pushes on to the clutch pushrod to operate the clutch if you have one it will be located at the end of the clutch cable opposite end to the lever


they need to be adjusted after a bit of wear has taken place on the clutch plates otherwise the clutch starts to slip :wink:

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