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GSF 600 - Spark Plug snapped - bottom half in engine


chalkmyster
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Update -


Easy Out purchased and arrived but got it stuck :evil:


Decided to take the head (with Easy Out) to Engine specialist in Carmarthen to help....now waiting for the phone call to say it's ready.

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How did you get it stuck you just turn it the other way to remove it?, having read all you posts I am wondering if you have a cross threaded plug, in which case you will need to put an insert coil in after it has been removed.

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How did you get it stuck you just turn it the other way to remove it?, having read all you posts I am wondering if you have a cross threaded plug, in which case you will need to put an insert coil in after it has been removed.

 

The easy-out got to a point that I could not turn it any more. With no clamp or additional muscle power (i have small guns) the easy-out was stuck.


Dont know what had happened to the previous spark plug but it was not shifting for me.


Today, the head was ready for collection - collected by the old man with the old spark plug.


However, I return home from work to start the rebuild and install the new plugs (all the same size etc). The drilled and inner plug now sits lower (not protruding as the other 3 chambers/pots).


Now I'm slightly concerned if this will be ok? 3 sparks plugs protruding with electrode and tips but drilled spark plug now sit lower.


Will try and upload some pics.

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how much lower are you talking?


you usually have a little clearance but you also have to allow for con rod stretch at high revs!

 

I would say its about 2 - 4 mm different compared to the other 3 spark plugs.


The other 3 plugs housing sit flush with cast with electrode out. The drilled hole plug makes the housing of plug sit under the casing thus making the electrode only sitting a few mm out of the chamber.....if that makes sense.


Pictures dont really show it - but its the left hole/plug is the drilled one, which you can see just sits below the right one.

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It does look a lot more then that to be honest


I was wondering if you could get away with a thick copper washer to space it but then you wouldn't know till you fitted it

 

To me, its as if the insert has not been drilled in further enough to allow the plug to sit lower.


At present, and if i fitted this, the engine would not run correctly as chamber 3 has a less/weak spark...being further away compared to other 3 sparks?

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bugger I thought it was going in too far :lol:


The main thing is you wont have any problems with the piston hitting the plug like I first thought


The bike would still run and I doubt you would notice a difference there's only one way to check!

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bugger I thought it was going in too far :lol:


The main thing is you wont have any problems with the piston hitting the plug like I first thought


The bike would still run and I doubt you would notice a difference there's only one way to check!

 

No sorry, defo will not hit piston - the other way :)


I just dont wont to waste half day on rebuild to then find out, but you are the second person to say it should be ok/no difference.


Thanks for your help, always good to get another opinion :) .

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Update - engine back together, took majority of the day to do but managed to get the bike started at 2030 hrs.


Got slightly worried when it wouldn't start after a few turns - turns out the carbs have 2 vacum pipes, 1 to the tank and the to the PAIR.


My only other concern now is the engine block is smoking after about 5/10 mins from starting. I will check tomorrow during the day as it was daylight was fading. I suspect this is just oil/dirt etc.. that is burning off?

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Look at it this evening (from 7pm onwards....fading light) and after about 10 mins the engine block started to smoke. But then the smoke died.


However after a twists on the throttle the engine block started to smoke again.....on investigation it looks like oil is seeping from the front - middle/top of engine.


Now...if this was the head gasket leaking , would this make the engine run rough?


At present no smoke is coming out of exhaust on or off throttle and drives/rides ok.

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So, after 280 odd miles the bandit is no longer smoking from the engine. This is mainly after taking the cam cover off, cleaning, checking head bolts, applying sealant and snapping a banjo bolt for the cover!! Argh!!!


Anyways, after a frantic search for a replacement I was able to ride the bike to work on Monday - with no issues.


However, i have now noticed that the bandit is getting louder with the tappets. They where adjusted to Haynes manual suggestions (thickest feeler gauge size - 0.15mm for In and 0.25mm for Exh i think).


What makes tappets tap?

Is it the distance/gap, should they be the smallest gap? This would 0.10mm for In.


I do need to change oil (looking quite dark), this gets done every 2 months/4000 miles.

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