londonboards Posted December 5, 2012 Author Posted December 5, 2012 Day 105 Engine WashingYou may read on other threads . . ."and I washed the engine". Just like that. This is another one of those seemingly simple jobs that takes me a whole day. First I have to work out a place to do it in the garden. This alone required moving a ton of stuff. Then I had to work out an idea to get the engine off the ground and be able to reach the bottom. Then the actuall cleaning took a good long time and hey it's only 3 degrees C here (37F) with a windchill as well. I've now got back ache!See my blog posting here: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012/12/engine-wash-105.htmlI made up a stand using grandad's old car ramps:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-WBYerALLyKg/ULpyMvQLBNI/AAAAAAAACPk/CjxgGZIGbU0/s1600/P1050163.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-WtbaYA51l04/ULpxzVhOQRI/AAAAAAAACPE/UKHHSzyc9XU/s1600/P1050158.jpgNow we are safely tucked up in the garage where I can do some work over the winter:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-6HfK3tw8KNU/ULp31IG966I/AAAAAAAACRA/nuyKxUzQ5dk/s1600/P1050169-001.jpgGreetings Quote
Uncle Meat Posted December 5, 2012 Posted December 5, 2012 Good job so far. It will be worth it when you get the frame powder coated and the engine back in all nice and shiny. Summer will be here in 5 1/2 months... Quote
Tankbag Posted December 5, 2012 Posted December 5, 2012 Good work keep posting your progress dude Quote
londonboards Posted February 12, 2013 Author Posted February 12, 2013 Day 167 Carburetor Strip (part 3)I have been moving on with this rebuild folks.For the latest, have a look at http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/I am on the carb strip at the moment. Here is the workbench (click images to enlarge):http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-r7vNcJDVtLI/UQ7b9uhekjI/AAAAAAAACm8/EkQbA9Fh-HE/s1600/P1050543.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-H1O5UZoSoUQ/UQ7b9R9L6MI/AAAAAAAACm4/IHKnuv2MMYE/s1600/P1050540.jpgand some close up work:http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-DtbWcSOXREo/URaOAG0mxaI/AAAAAAAACrw/AAtIh8amZJ4/s1600/P1050615.jpgGreetings Quote
mintex Posted February 12, 2013 Posted February 12, 2013 Nice rebuild thread bud, i will enjoy reading and watching this one Quote
Chrissb6 Posted February 12, 2013 Posted February 12, 2013 Nice little job you've found yourself there I personally would not use an impact driver on those bolts That block and the threads are aluminium your going to smash the block if your not careful. Get yourself a little blow torch and try this trick it works:Heat the area around the bolt with the torch, once it’s hot touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweating -soldering" copper pipes, it called capillary action. If you cannot get the candle directly onto the threads as it goes into the block use a quick spray of penetrating oil, just make sure there's no flame about when you do this. The trick is to heat the metal around the bolt, not the bolt itself.Keep us posted Quote
londonboards Posted February 13, 2013 Author Posted February 13, 2013 Day 179 Carburetor Break Down Part 4Getting down to the nitty gritty now. Taking out butterfly valves. Some people suggest not doing this:See: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/carburetor-break-down-part-4-day-179.htmlhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-06s4mnCxFuc/URqrRvUyCAI/AAAAAAAACwQ/ZMN1pzr2F3s/s1600/P1050700.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAizw8rftnc/URqrP6NAAmI/AAAAAAAACvs/yug_bWMueh8/s1600/P1050701.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6ESILx3tOnI/URqrQsBfBLI/AAAAAAAACv4/cKxfrJpTiU0/s1600/P1050703.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X_zjfmltfcI/URqrRwgxCBI/AAAAAAAACwM/hlgJ1YoEgzA/s1600/P1050710.jpgNow I have to get this one off:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKTgxkeJM_U/URvOGWu2dxI/AAAAAAAACyY/pumqwGdccOA/s1600/P1050724.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qxeROjFArNQ/URvTZotLSdI/AAAAAAAACzI/Iaw5xmrJ3dg/s1600/P1050726b.jpgGreetings Quote
Chrissb6 Posted February 14, 2013 Posted February 14, 2013 Day 179 Carburetor Break Down Part 4Getting down to the nitty gritty now. Taking out butterfly valves. Some people suggest not doing this:See: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/carburetor-break-down-part-4-day-179.htmlhttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-06s4mnCxFuc/URqrRvUyCAI/AAAAAAAACwQ/ZMN1pzr2F3s/s1600/P1050700.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAizw8rftnc/URqrP6NAAmI/AAAAAAAACvs/yug_bWMueh8/s1600/P1050701.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6ESILx3tOnI/URqrQsBfBLI/AAAAAAAACv4/cKxfrJpTiU0/s1600/P1050703.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X_zjfmltfcI/URqrRwgxCBI/AAAAAAAACwM/hlgJ1YoEgzA/s1600/P1050710.jpgNow I have to get this one off:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-xKTgxkeJM_U/URvOGWu2dxI/AAAAAAAACyY/pumqwGdccOA/s1600/P1050724.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-qxeROjFArNQ/URvTZotLSdI/AAAAAAAACzI/Iaw5xmrJ3dg/s1600/P1050726b.jpgGreetingsIts called a roll pin, its made of sping steel you will need a drift - punch to get it out give it a good soak first. How did you get on with removing the exhaust bolt? Quote
londonboards Posted February 14, 2013 Author Posted February 14, 2013 Its called a roll pin, its made of sping steel you will need a drift - punch to get it out give it a good soak first. How did you get on with removing the exhaust bolt? Thanks for that. I will use some of my concoction of 50% thinners and 50% brake fluid that was so successful in getting the exhaust bolts out:See http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/exhaust-bolts-out-day-55.htmlHere are the pesky beasts:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tqwKg1ggGl0/UHhL1YjHc_I/AAAAAAAABUM/zr476TqGMOY/s1600/P1040472.jpgGreetings Quote
londonboards Posted February 14, 2013 Author Posted February 14, 2013 Nice little job you've found yourself there I personally would not use an impact driver on those bolts That block and the threads are aluminium your going to smash the block if your not careful. Get yourself a little blow torch and try this trick it works:Heat the area around the bolt with the torch, once it’s hot touch a candle to the threads. The wax will be sucked into the opening around the threads, and the bolt can be removed easily. The heating and candle application may have to be repeated a couple times. This works on the same principle as "sweating -soldering" copper pipes, it called capillary action. If you cannot get the candle directly onto the threads as it goes into the block use a quick spray of penetrating oil, just make sure there's no flame about when you do this. The trick is to heat the metal around the bolt, not the bolt itself.Keep us posted Thanks for that. I do have a little blow lamp that I bought when I thought I would need it to get the exhaust bolts out. But it was never needed in the end. The wax thing sounds really good. I will give it a try.Greetings Quote
londonboards Posted February 14, 2013 Author Posted February 14, 2013 Great Thread Been a real treat to read x You are too kind.Greetings Quote
Chrissb6 Posted February 14, 2013 Posted February 14, 2013 Its called a roll pin, its made of sping steel you will need a drift - punch to get it out give it a good soak first. How did you get on with removing the exhaust bolt? Thanks for that. I will use some of my concoction of 50% thinners and 50% brake fluid that was so successful in getting the exhaust bolts out:See http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2012/10/exhaust-bolts-out-day-55.htmlHere are the pesky beasts:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-tqwKg1ggGl0/UHhL1YjHc_I/AAAAAAAABUM/zr476TqGMOY/s1600/P1040472.jpgGreetingsGreat job on getting them out, there are many ways of getting to Rome as they say! Always remember if you need to use heat, heat the metal around the stuck object not the object - bolt itself. 2 things happen if you heat the bolt. (A) The bolt expands in the thread and becomes tighter and (B) The heat will anneal the bolt makeing the metal softer resulting in snap off. PS If its a nut thats stuck on a thread, then you heat the nut. Nice pic's great job Quote
londonboards Posted March 21, 2013 Author Posted March 21, 2013 Making good progress at the moment. Got the carbs back from the vapour blasting guys. So here's a real before and after treat:See: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/03/cleaned-carburetors-day-214.html tons of other posts and big pictures.Click these photos to enlarge:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-d_5Kma3ExVg/UUodHAxgPOI/AAAAAAAADMM/ssSrQcp4P6A/s1600/P1040287.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-TPXB0JIpUIw/UUodH5ag-PI/AAAAAAAADMc/ASdtfmrsbTk/s1600/P1040313.jpgAnd the after:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-VY7m8js8VvU/UUod2bh5NCI/AAAAAAAADMs/aKPT1b97V08/s1600/P1060421-001a.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-yRFebIYnTXc/UUod2ScgKeI/AAAAAAAADMw/EhWB_rcIjpo/s1600/P1060367-001a.jpgGreetings Quote
londonboards Posted March 21, 2013 Author Posted March 21, 2013 (edited) Some Butterfly CapersHere's some info on how I got the butterflies out. I am glad I did as I found a seal missing from one of the throttle rods:See: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/02/some-butterfly-capers.htmlI blocked the valve with a piece of wood:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-az0wiZyFhVk/UR_nLx_6uTI/AAAAAAAAC7o/btRKFx_TJmY/s1600/P1050735.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-cFNZMp-y4B0/UR_o-pcBO_I/AAAAAAAAC8A/bvI-T06eIZg/s1600/P1050732.jpgDon't worry too much about these screws not turning or being burred over - best to use a JIS screwdriver for a perfect fit then give them some welly as you lean on the piece of wood. You do not want to strip these!http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-4VckbSYXXdg/UR_q_Daqb6I/AAAAAAAAC8Y/xFF-rOyRHP4/s1600/P1050742.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-vAizw8rftnc/URqrP6NAAmI/AAAAAAAACvs/yug_bWMueh8/s1600/P1050701.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-6ESILx3tOnI/URqrQsBfBLI/AAAAAAAACv4/cKxfrJpTiU0/s1600/P1050703.jpghttp://1.bp.blogspot.com/-X_zjfmltfcI/URqrRwgxCBI/AAAAAAAACwM/hlgJ1YoEgzA/s1600/P1050710.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-sY6rMgKPR9k/UR_vSCxofYI/AAAAAAAAC8s/e_TjYUYbqTc/s1600/P1050773.jpghttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Q75w0tnIbRY/UR_vSEsmpMI/AAAAAAAAC8w/X48AWzwf_Aw/s1600/P1050771.jpgGreetings Edited May 9, 2013 by londonboards Quote
londonboards Posted April 11, 2013 Author Posted April 11, 2013 (edited) Top T Race RemovalSee: My http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/04/top-t-race-removal.htmlHad quite a bit of fun trying to get this off. Resorted to the old Dremel and brute force method:http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-5lnH-9bWoNU/UWbfQr6--hI/AAAAAAAADXA/I4dLRqi97xg/s1600/P1060814.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UsKS-y8FgQE/UWbfQs8WiMI/AAAAAAAADXE/0Twp8C0_y34/s1600/P1060816.jpgThen give it a good whack:http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-Zm-P-wq6VPs/UWbfRKVkIiI/AAAAAAAADXQ/RZ841AcPz3c/s1600/P1060822.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-W4gDqT_pEck/UWbfRmCL6CI/AAAAAAAADXU/7v4EKFH2pHM/s1600/P1060825.jpgGreetings Edited May 9, 2013 by londonboards Quote
londonboards Posted May 9, 2013 Author Posted May 9, 2013 I finally got my air shocks back from the refurb guy. It took nearly 5 months but I was in no hurry.See my resto blog: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/rear-shocks-refurbishment.html there are more pics and stuff there.This is what they look like now:http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-y-KVih4t9AE/UYtzTEBjbUI/AAAAAAAADco/agpDFi9G45I/s1600/P1070181-001.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-MSN8sI8yJEU/UYtzc3Ap_QI/AAAAAAAADdQ/DsgvEtSLYs8/s1600/P1070187-001.jpgGreetings Quote
londonboards Posted May 25, 2013 Author Posted May 25, 2013 Got all the little bits back from plating today. Now to start the carb rebuild:See: http://suzukigs1100.blogspot.co.uk/2013/05/carburetto.htmlhttp://3.bp.blogspot.com/-hMvEW8RjRvw/UaDkJ8XmT3I/AAAAAAAADnw/QsrS0NPTh4A/s1600/P1070323.jpghttp://4.bp.blogspot.com/-G1lfYudThtY/UaDkJ2SFmtI/AAAAAAAADno/bcp4VweF1bw/s1600/P1070330-001.jpghttp://2.bp.blogspot.com/-8hxiPj4g6RE/UaDkK0PPisI/AAAAAAAADn4/owg2fwq9G-0/s1600/P1070339-001.jpgGreetings Quote
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