Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 No I'm suggesting you try it in gear to see if it moves make sure its on a solid paddock stand so the bike does go through the garage If it still doesnt move then yes you have a problem with it Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 No I'm suggesting you try it in gear to see if it moves make sure its on a solid paddock stand so the bike does go through the garage If it still doesnt move then yes you have a problem with itOk... not sure how I'm supposed to see it moving though with the cover on... Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 you will see the cables move the same as in your vid when you turn it on they will move with the revs Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 you will see the cables move the same as in your vid when you turn it on they will move with the revs...Am I having a stupid moment? That's what I'm saying Stu - the cables are moving in neutral. That must mean either;- The valve moves with it.- The valve isn't attached???No? Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 looking at the vid the servo is just taking up the slack as you rev it when I did my mates it did exactly the same but upon sticking it in gear you could actually see it move a lot not just a little the valve needs to move a full 90 degrees to be fully open if its anything like the R6 of the same year then it won't work right until its in gear Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 Ok - mine will be more difficult to tell without the cover being off but I can see the cables. And if they do move? Then the valve isn't connected to the valve end plate? Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 god knows! somethings not right with it though I reckon I would have sorted the problem myself by now as I don't trust dealers! or at least have it all stripped out Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 you can clearly tell your cables are connected but as you say is the actual valve connected inside! Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 you can clearly tell your cables are connected but as you say is the actual valve connected inside!This is my hypothesis...Because the cables are clearly moving with the RPM's (albeit in neutral), I have a sneaky suspicion I'm going to need a new EXUP system... but who knows. If I could get it off and inspect it I would, I'm dying to know! Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 even if you got that cover off you wouldn't see anything you need to either get the valve out or the exhaust apart to see down it Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 when turning the ign on you should hear the exup valve make a whirring noise setting itself which means you should see the cables move and then as stu says on paddock stand in gear slowly open throttle and see if cables move at all Quote
Stu Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 yes thats all been done steve there is a video in the first post it just needs running up on a stand now to see if the valve is working when in gear Quote
Tango Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 So.....please excuse my ignorance of this modern technology......but, what if the valve has already been removed? Wouldn't that affect the low/ midrange.....but top-end would be ok? Isn't the valve just altering the back-pressure at lower revs to help with the low-end power? The fact that the cables were disconnected initially....and screw heads have been mashed previously..... Just throwing my thoughts in here..... Quote
adekeys Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 Found this if it helps?http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.html Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 So.....please excuse my ignorance of this modern technology......but, what if the valve has already been removed? Wouldn't that affect the low/ midrange.....but top-end would be ok? Isn't the valve just altering the back-pressure at lower revs to help with the low-end power? The fact that the cables were disconnected initially....and screw heads have been mashed previously..... Just throwing my thoughts in here..... Very good point... it would explain why the cables move yet the valve appears to be closed more than it should. Quote
Guest Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 Found this if it helps?http://www.cartestsoftware.com/fz1/exupmaintenance.htmlRead that many times. Very informative. The problem is access to the valve, see photos on page one. Quote
Tango Posted September 18, 2014 Posted September 18, 2014 So.....please excuse my ignorance of this modern technology......but, what if the valve has already been removed? Wouldn't that affect the low/ midrange.....but top-end would be ok? Isn't the valve just altering the back-pressure at lower revs to help with the low-end power? The fact that the cables were disconnected initially....and screw heads have been mashed previously..... Just throwing my thoughts in here..... Very good point... it would explain why the cables move yet the valve appears to be closed more than it should.No.......my point is that could it be fully open (or the guts of the valve have been removed).......I would have thought that if it was fully closed or only partially open wouldn't that be ok at lower revs....but choke off the top end? ie, the opposite to what's happening on your bike?As I say, I don't know how it works......so these are just my thoughts..... Quote
Guest Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 Been thinking about this for the last few days...For obviously reasons, I REALLLLLLY don't want to take it back to the monkeys but I want those rounded and seized bolts off. Due to the limited working space, the only solution I can come to that doesn't involve taking that part of the exhaust off, is easy outs.Anyone used them? What do you reckon the chances of success are?Welcome other suggestions too. Quote
fq-craigus Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 If you mean the bolts that hold the manifold on or any bolts really in the block I have to say the key is patience. Easy outs arnt that easy in practice, the idea is great but reality sucks. If there is anything to get a pirchace on like a rounded bolt try grinding a couple of flats and use maul grips. If your using the easy out metod use a center punch and start with a bit a quarter the size of the bolt, keep checking it's going in straight and if it wanders stop and re adjust if you catch the block you will have to drill and tap new threads. I'm a mechanic and don't usually have lick with easy outs on manifold bolts as they are usually locked solid, so drilling and tapping is the way forward Quote
Joeman Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 To get the cover off, I think its only two of the four bolts. One looks like it's already gone (bottom right), so that just leaves the top left one. Quote
Joeman Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 Forgot to say, you could try hammering on a socket that's a bit small. An old imperial size socket could do the trick. Hammer it on so it's good and tight, then with the exhaust hot, give it a turn... Quote
Stu Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 if they are a bolt just for the cover I would start drilling with a small bit as close to the centre as possible step it up a few mm at a time once through until its off question though did I read right that the garage replaced the cables? if so how did they do that without removing the cover? Quote
fq-craigus Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 Ah that don't look too bad, as above smaller size socket see if that helps and get the bike hot if you can, failing that a hammer and chisel, chisel a groove in the side of the bolt and then try chisel it round, the heat and the shock may just do the trick. Or of you have a air chisel even better just take it easy with it or you will sheer it off Quote
Stu Posted September 24, 2014 Posted September 24, 2014 looking at the pics they are allen key bolts so your not getting a socket on Quote
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