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How easy for a noob to self service brakes & fluid?


MissBex
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Hey all, so as the title says, how easy would you say it is for a complete non mechanically minded person such as myself to clean up the calipers, front and rear, put in new pads and change the front and rear brake fluid?


It needs doing on the Hornet, I'm looking to get it booked in for a service in which brake service is included (I dont think fluid though) anyway, but be good to learn this kind of thing for future so I can save £150-200.


I guess a Haynes manual would help for starters.


Cheers :)

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It's not a difficult job, and your right a manual is a good start. You will also need at least a one man bleeding kit (though I prefer a vacuum pump but they cost more) and some copper grease, and a tin of brake cleaner as well as the new pads (if needed) and new unopened brake fluid.


Take you time follow the instructions, and you will find its a doddle. Just be careful the first ride after you do the work, and test everything still works before you need them to work.

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Brake pads are often easy to do, fluid a little bit trickier. Haynes or a service manual is good to have, it may also be worth watching a couple of videos on YouTube (there's several).


It's a very good idea to wear gloves (nitrile rather than latex) when doing brake fluid and wipe up any spills fast - it's nasty stuff and can mess up paint finishes.

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Go on youtube and search for delboys garage, he has a comprehensive step by step on the brake service.

As long as your meticulous and arnt inclined to cut corners its a job for anyone. Right tools are essential.


Just remember these are what stops you

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Flushing fluid i found very easy.


Get a vacuum hose (trust me) you can leave the nipple (giggity) open then.


Get wrench that fits over the nipple nut, and push it over, don't open yet.

Put hose over the nipple, Put the other end in an old pot and pour a little brake fluid in,

Submerge the other end in the brake fluid,

Open the nipple, and pump the brake, Squeeze in hard and let out slowly.

Keep topping your brake fluid resevoir up so it doesn't suck in air.

Keep going untill the fluid coming out is clean,

Tighten nipple up and close the fluid resevoir after topping up fluid.

Press brake lever a few times and should be good to go!

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it's a fairly simple job I did mine on the Chinese one I have and I found it fairly easy though make sure you put the pads back in the right way (I didn't and the thing wouldn't stop squeeking thought that couls have been one of the shims) I'm going to need to do them gain soon though I keep forgetting to wash them after a ride out :)

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Should be a pretty straight forward job.


If you have no manual, take lots of pictures as you take things to bits or label them for peace of mind when you refit everything. That way if you find something you're fitting can go in two different ways and still fit, you should have something to refer back to.


I'm sure there is someone up your way on the forum that would be happy to give a hand if necessary.

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Fair play for having a go, as already said plenty of help from the internet these days to give you step by step instructions. before you start just be sure you have all the correct tools and parts at hand. If you not sure you know where we are.

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Thanks for the advice all,


Yeah I'm also a fan of Delboy's garage :) I forgot he did a brakes vid, I'll have to bring that back up and have a watch.

I find it all very daunting really, but I'm sure when it comes to it as long as I follow the steps properly, I might be ok :)

I do need to find myself a mechanically minded helper round this way haha. My step dad does know quite a bit but he's often busy (and to be honest, often a bit of a bodge jobber! haha)

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Easiest way is to reverse bleed it.Empty reservoir then attach syringe to bleed nipple with tubing open nipple and push new fluid up from syringe until reservoir is at correct level close nipple.

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Thanks for the advice all,


Yeah I'm also a fan of Delboy's garage :) I forgot he did a brakes vid, I'll have to bring that back up and have a watch.

I find it all very daunting really, but I'm sure when it comes to it as long as I follow the steps properly, I might be ok :)

I do need to find myself a mechanically minded helper round this way haha. My step dad does know quite a bit but he's often busy (and to be honest, often a bit of a bodge jobber! haha)

 

Delboy appears to have quite a fan club here as I am also a subscriber. Mechanically it is a simple job, but because it is the brakes, it is daunting.


Step 1 make sure you have all the correct tools.

- Some disposable gloves and kitchen wipes to keep you and tools clean. Kitchen towel to mop up any spills, especially brake fluid which is horrible stuff.

- A basic socket set for the bolts. There are likely to be two keeping the caliper in place. The brake fluid nipple on the caliper can be dealt with a spanner or if you are careful pliers.

- You may need some needle pliers if there is a pin keeping the pads in place.

- An old or cheap screwdriver and small hammer for very gentle persuasion if the pads are stuck.

- A bucket of soapy water and a little brush/dish brush for cleaning. You can also brake cleaner, but it can go for the seals around the pistons, so use it first and then wash off with soap and water.

- A screwdriver to take off the fluid reservoir lid. Some, especially back brakes, just have a lid that screws off.

- A small funnel as you may need it to help pour the fluid into the reservoir, especially for back brakes.

- A means to drain out the brake fluid and pump it back through once. I use this


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Brake-Bleeding-kit-Brake-Bleeder-Clutch-Bleeding-Kit-Free-Delivery-dot4-Fluid-/151653501615?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item234f40caaf


and a plastic jug to drain the fluid into. It is a non return valve and you pump the fluid through with the brake lever. At £5.49 it is one the best bits of kit I have bought.

- You may need a means to push the caliper pistons back to fit the new pads. Hopefully you can do it with your fingers, but if crudded up they can be stiff. Your crappy screwdriver may also be enough to try and lever them back. I have adjustable pliers like this


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/10-WATER-PUMP-PLIERS-GROOVE-JOINT-ADJUSTABLE-PIPE-WRENCH-WATER-PUMP-5A-/370718278363?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_3&hash=item56508802db


which have a scrap of cloth round the teeth to stop scratches. If the pistons will not budge that is a remove them job and whilst simple enough, I would suggest it is time to get a mechanic in.

- Copper grease for the bolts to keep them in good condition. There is no point in putting it on the backs of the pads as you do in a car, as they are to exposed and it will wash off.


Step 2 watch Delboy and take notes. The principle is the same for pretty much every bike with disc brakes.


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Step 3 settle down at your bike with all your tools and other bits to hand and change the pads and fluid.


Remember, proper, prior, planning prevents piss poor performance. :cheers:

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Miss Bex.


If it was not for me going in to hospital and holiday's the second week of May. I would do it for you. As I live south of King's Lynn. That's a short trip up the A10. It's not that hard. Have a go your self. You not got a friend who could hold your hand?

John933

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Mechanically it is a simple job, but because it is the brakes, it is daunting.

 

Wow, Thanks for the detailed breakdown and checklist of tools etc..

I think I have most of those things - well, my stepdad has 2 garages of tools - although it may take a while to find the ones I need as they are a tip! haha


I might just try myself.. I really don't have a lot of money to be spending on a garage service and I would love to learn anyway.


Would I need a stand for the bike to do any of this? Not got one yet, still saving for an abbastand :)

I assume I should torque the bolts up too, which I imagine I would find in a Haynes manual(?)

 

If it was not for me going in to hospital and holiday's the second week of May. I would do it for you. As I live south of King's Lynn. That's a short trip up the A10. It's not that hard. Have a go your self. You not got a friend who could hold your hand?

John933

 

Heya John, aww that's no problem, very kind of you say anyway.

Unfortunately I pretty much don't really know anyone who's into bikes, well apart from another lady who lives in Chatteris but she doesn't know mechanical stuff either and just takes hers for garage services as it's only a year or so old.



I also want to attempt to do oil & filter (I don't think that'll be hard) and would also like to put new coolant in too as I have no idea when the bike was last serviced anyway.

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Oil and filter change is very easy, just make sure you get a proper oil pan to let it drain into. The thread on my oil plug is reversed so if you can't open it normally, try it the other way :D :D


And make sure you spread a little clean oil on the new oil filter before you screw it on, and remember, screw it by hand.

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Mechanically it is a simple job, but because it is the brakes, it is daunting.

 

Wow, Thanks for the detailed breakdown and checklist of tools etc..

I think I have most of those things - well, my stepdad has 2 garages of tools - although it may take a while to find the ones I need as they are a tip! haha


I might just try myself.. I really don't have a lot of money to be spending on a garage service and I would love to learn anyway.


Would I need a stand for the bike to do any of this? Not got one yet, still saving for an abbastand :)

I assume I should torque the bolts up too, which I imagine I would find in a Haynes manual(?)

 

You don't need a stand but it does help to have the bike more upright for access. I use a rear axle stand like this;


http://www.fastbikebits.com/shopimages/products/normal/PDSTANDR.jpg


The bolts just need to be tight, you do not need to worry about specific torque settings. Remember to put a bit of copper grease round them to help preserve them.


........



I also want to attempt to do oil & filter (I don't think that'll be hard) and would also like to put new coolant in too as I have no idea when the bike was last serviced anyway.



Oil and filter are simple. If anything that should be your first job to get into the swing of things. You need


1 - a tray or better a container like this as it means once the oil has been drained you can take to your local disposal facility, you cannot just pour it away anywhere.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/8L-Engine-Oil ... 3cd85643c1


2 - a filter removal tool. This is hard to advise on as different bikes suit different tools due to access.


http://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_odkw= ... cat=180124


3 - the gloves and kitchen towel you have already got


4 - a socket to remove the sump plug.


5 - some recommend replacing the sump plug washer each time, I have not bothered since it has not been damaged or corroded and have had no issues.


6 - a funnel for pouring in the oil, you wnat a different one from the one you use with brake fliud. It is best to have one funnel for each job and keep them separate.


7 - the oil, I use Halfords 10W/40 part synthetic. The amount you need is down to the bike. The 5 ltr container will give you ample and spare for next time.


This is a clear guide on how to do it.


http://www.elsham.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ ... nd-filter/

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I did my brake fluid recently for the first time. Used a cheap one way bleeder off eBay.


Make sure you use loads of rags and clean up really well. I dropped fluid on my pads when I pulled the hose off, had to buy new pads.


Also don't over tighten the bleed nipple, only needs nipping up, I thought I over tightened mine turns out there was a bit of residual fluid coming out the threads, give everywhere a good spray with brake cleaner.


It's relatively straight forward, plus you can give the calliper a good cleaning while your there.

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