Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 Since lowering kits are just shorter linkage arms... could/would you take an inch off the stock ones and weld it back together???Or is it a really stupid idea?I'm of the thought that if it's all measured out and done correctly with precision, could/should be OK...?(Not for my bike...) Quote
Stu Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 They are longer for lowering and no don't weld them it's stupid The heat can affect the strength Quote
Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 Fair enough... I guess it is a bit of a compromise too far.-Kickstand needs to be cut down though, that's OK I assume since people seem to do it?? Quote
Stu Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 Side stand is fine to weld Your not putting nowhere near as much weight on that Just think how much force goes through them bones when bouncing down the road! Your talking in the 10's of tonnes! My brother worked it out not so long back as he was going to make me a new rocker arm but he figured the cast one is way stronger than the billet alloy one he was going to make and the forces would break the alloy!!! Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 i found if only dropping 20mm then often the stand is ok but if like on my blade i dropped it 35 mm then i had to shorten the side stand Quote
Stu Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 i found if only dropping 20mm then often the stand is ok but if like on my blade i dropped it 35 mm then i had to shorten the side stand this is usually true and you just have to watch where you park on my mates aaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrr6 I fettled the stand stop and make the stand go further forward which worked a treat Quote
fq-craigus Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 The cast is horrible to weld and although strong when made to do its job by cutting and welding it you lose all its strength, cast is ok but billet is way stronger, i had this conversation last week with local metal shop thats making a press for us. So your brothers billet one would have taken a hell of a lot more pain than cast Quote
Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 It would be better for the rider in question to have it lowered by 2"... now we're into cutting the stand down territory I think? Anything else that needs to be considered when lowering 45mm?? Front needs to come down a bit? Quote
Mr Fro Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 You're not getting happy with the welder again are you Phil? You could weld it but you'd need to get it heat treated to restore it's strength (not cheap). Plus you risk warpage during treatment.A lowering kit is a much more straightforward option and yes, you'll probably need to raise the forks a bit. Quote
Joeman Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 Other option would be to remove foam from the seat. That might lover it a bit.What's the bike anyway?Is it green by any chance?? Quote
Guest Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 Other option would be to remove foam from the seat. That might lover it a bit.What's the bike anyway?Is it green by any chance??And black! Don't think the seat is going to cut this one mate lol... It needs lowering. Quote
eastanglianbiker Posted August 5, 2015 Posted August 5, 2015 if you drop the front as well you are going to change all the steering geometry making it turn in quicker as you corner dont forget that Quote
andy-iow Posted September 20, 2015 Posted September 20, 2015 This might help you MOT Manual free the link ishttps://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/s ... es-1-2.pdfSection 2 - Page 2 Method of inspection - Item DReason for rejection - Item D Quote
Guest Posted September 21, 2015 Posted September 21, 2015 Ooops... looks like I forgot to update the thread.Lowered it 2" a few weeks back. No real world difference to handling in spite of what the horror stories are made out to be. Quote
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