Hoggs Posted March 23, 2016 Share Posted March 23, 2016 How can you prevent cutting out at junctions? I really wouldn't want to do that and the fact my bike can't even hold its ground in my garage worries me let alone on a junction!you develop a skill of rear braking dipping the clutch and keeping the revs up. Or at lights just let it die as it started back up fine. Or through filtering keep a bit of choke on. I do not recommend any of these things Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Does it still cut out even after warming it up properly? And I don't just mean once around the block, I mean 10 minutes or so and at least a couple of stretches of >30mph road for good measure. In fact, I'm hazarding a guess that if you've not done the CBT yet, you're just starting it on the driveway? I still think it's a bit soon to be recommending that you dive in and start mucking with the carb.Also, on another note; when you say that you've killed the battery while trying to adjust the idle, what exactly is happening? Sounds a little odd for the battery to be giving up the ghost while the engine is actually running, could be something else causing it? Better safe than sorry, I figure.If I lived a bit nearer by I'd offer to run over tomorrow and take a look at it with you, but Nuneaton is a bit of a long haul for "just dropping by" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branbb60 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Does it still cut out even after warming it up properly? And I don't just mean once around the block, I mean 10 minutes or so and at least a couple of stretches of >30mph road for good measure. In fact, I'm hazarding a guess that if you've not done the CBT yet, you're just starting it on the driveway? I still think it's a bit soon to be recommending that you dive in and start mucking with the carb.Also, on another note; when you say that you've killed the battery while trying to adjust the idle, what exactly is happening? Sounds a little odd for the battery to be giving up the ghost while the engine is actually running, could be something else causing it? Better safe than sorry, I figure.If I lived a bit nearer by I'd offer to run over tomorrow and take a look at it with you, but Nuneaton is a bit of a long haul for "just dropping by" Unfortunately no, I haven't completed my CBT yet, it is on Saturday. Of course as anyone would, i'd like my bike functional before I pass so I don't need to piss about after my CBT. As for the battery, the bike cuts out when I start it and do not manually keep revs in. So i'd try adjust the screw on the carb, restart and the bike would still cut out. So I kept attempting to adjust the carb but I believe constantly restarting the bike kills the little battery. Only take three/four tried before it's dead but it's not being rode so it makes sense. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Ah, righto - well that's good, wouldn't want to have any electrical gremlins to sort out!Few questions so that we can work out what the problem is, ready for you to ride it after your CBT:- Did you give the choke a try? Did it make a difference? Did the bike maintain its revs once you applied the choke?- As I asked last time, are you actually warming up the engine properly before adjusting the idle screw? I realise it's boring having to stand there working the throttle until it heats up a bit, you don't need to go absolutely nuts but you at least want it to be at the lower end of a happy operating temperature otherwise you're just firing shots in the dark.I'm not trying to be a broken record here, these are important questions; if you aren't using the choke or warming it up by any other means, then you'd expect it to cut out when you take your hand off the throttle! My CG runs perfectly but would still cut out if I did the same! And if you have tried the choke and can tell us what difference it made, we can do a better job of helping you work out the problem.Final thought:On my Lexmoto, they used really cheap shitty materials for the inlet rubber (bit connecting the carb to the cyclinder head, see pic below). As a result it split after a few months, and this let the bike suck in extra air. Bad for two reasons; firstly because it's sucking in who knows what dust and crap from outside the engine, and secondly because it made the bike run hella lean, and cut out whenever I took my hand off the throttle. So who knows, could be the same issue that you're having! Inspect that bit carefully, look for any splits. If you can't see any, run the engine and hold you hand around it and see if you can feel air sucking in. Don't burn yourself, mind Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eastanglianbiker Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 easy way to check inlet rubber with engine running so you dont burn your hand is spray some wd40 towards it if the revs increase without the throttle being turned then at least part of the problem is the inlet rubber as rant pointed out Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branbb60 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Ah, righto - well that's good, wouldn't want to have any electrical gremlins to sort out!Few questions so that we can work out what the problem is, ready for you to ride it after your CBT:- Did you give the choke a try? Did it make a difference? Did the bike maintain its revs once you applied the choke?- As I asked last time, are you actually warming up the engine properly before adjusting the idle screw? I realise it's boring having to stand there working the throttle until it heats up a bit, you don't need to go absolutely nuts but you at least want it to be at the lower end of a happy operating temperature otherwise you're just firing shots in the dark.I'm not trying to be a broken record here, these are important questions; if you aren't using the choke or warming it up by any other means, then you'd expect it to cut out when you take your hand off the throttle! My CG runs perfectly but would still cut out if I did the same! And if you have tried the choke and can tell us what difference it made, we can do a better job of helping you work out the problem.Final thought:On my Lexmoto, they used really cheap shitty materials for the inlet rubber (bit connecting the carb to the cyclinder head, see pic below). As a result it split after a few months, and this let the bike suck in extra air. Bad for two reasons; firstly because it's sucking in who knows what dust and crap from outside the engine, and secondly because it made the bike run hella lean, and cut out whenever I took my hand off the throttle. So who knows, could be the same issue that you're having! Inspect that bit carefully, look for any splits. If you can't see any, run the engine and hold you hand around it and see if you can feel air sucking in. Don't burn yourself, mind [attachment=0]Inlet.jpg[/attachment] Well good news! I have filled the engine with oil and used the choke as suggested and the bike holds it's own! Running perfectly chugging along. First time I tried revving it, as you said it cut out. Second time I attempted the bike was happy with it. Need to say though there isnt much middle ground with my choke it's either on or will just snap back into off mode as it appears to be on a cable. I'll have a gander on Friday with the inlet rubber and get back to you if it is sucking in the air. I have to say for some reason when I try the press to start button, the little red one; the bike cuts out and the battery cannot start it. So through out the starting I did use the kick start. Not sure if it is a major issue using the kick start or if it is just a secondary choice. Should mention as well the bike is a 15 plate so it should be fairly new and happy in the age respect, though the previous owner did fall off and leave some cosmetic damage. So it seems that I need to start the bike first then i'll pop my helmet on and gloves etc. Take the choke off and get going!Thank you all for your help, next problem is the front break Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Good stuff! Now you've got it behaving, we should still quickly check that there isn't any issue with the idle. After all, you don't want it to die the first time you stop at a red light! If you start it with the choke on and let it run for a couple of minutes, does it cut out immediately when you take the choke off? Or does it run ok without choke after warming up? Fingers crossed it'll be fine, I'm hoping it was just cold starting that was the issue rather than the idle.Good thing you've got the kick start! I always kick start my CG... but then, it doesn't have an electric starter I'm not so good on electrics, someone else will have to help with sorting the starter button.What's up with the front brake? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branbb60 Posted March 24, 2016 Author Share Posted March 24, 2016 Good stuff! Now you've got it behaving, we should still quickly check that there isn't any issue with the idle. After all, you don't want it to die the first time you stop at a red light! If you start it with the choke on and let it run for a couple of minutes, does it cut out immediately when you take the choke off? Or does it run ok without choke after warming up? Fingers crossed it'll be fine, I'm hoping it was just cold starting that was the issue rather than the idle.Good thing you've got the kick start! I always kick start my CG... but then, it doesn't have an electric starter I'm not so good on electrics, someone else will have to help with sorting the starter button.What's up with the front brake? Nope after I take the choke off we're all running with no problems, still got the motor going!The front break is spongy, I've tried flushing the break fluid out but it doesn't seem to come out of the hole. I have unscrewed the nossle on the wheel but it's still only dribbling out. I've spent 15 minutes trying this and still nothing. The break fluid is very black also.Being said before I was having a fiddle about the break lever was very loose and I could pull it in about half way without any tension. But now the break has full tension and isn't wobbling at all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Awesome, glad to hear the engine is going strong!My track record with front brakes is a tad colourful... Might be best to get advice from one of the others on that one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JRH Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 When you say the brake fluid is just dribbling out of the bleed nipple are you operating the brake lever and topping the fluid up at the same time, remembering to tighten the nipple up before releasing the lever? This should force the fluid out under pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumor_uk Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Fluid shouldn't be black on a one year old bike?Only touch carb idle on a completely warmed up engine!- hope you turned back to what it wasYou need to get a bleeding kit with a non return valve to bleed brakes properly else you're just going to make them worse. All air must be out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumor_uk Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Is a one year old bike allowed to be carbed? Grey import? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 Most Chinese bikes are carbed, I think. Certainly most of the Lexmoto ones. Although I guess that might have to change for any new models... But the Arizona has been around for a while. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lumor_uk Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 They don't meet EU standards so are illegally imported? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 24, 2016 Share Posted March 24, 2016 If you want to explain that to Lexmoto or Sinnis, be my guest!I'm on Lexmoto's site right now and almost all of the bikes have carbs, and I'm gonna guess they couldn't really get away with selling illegal imports on that sort of scale. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adam Posted March 25, 2016 Share Posted March 25, 2016 Fluid shouldn't be black on a one year old bike?Only touch carb idle on a completely warmed up engine!- hope you turned back to what it wasYou need to get a bleeding kit with a non return valve to bleed brakes properly else you're just going to make them worse. All air must be out. For a bleeding kit I use a piece of plastic pipe (available at B&Q by the metre) just check the size, then you just need an empty jar which you need to fill half full with brake fluid and then put one end of the pipe in the jar and the other end on the bleeder nipple, just make sure you don't let the reservoir get completely empty otherwise you'll end up with a lot more air in your lines. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Branbb60 Posted March 25, 2016 Author Share Posted March 25, 2016 Awesome, glad to hear the engine is going strong!My track record with front brakes is a tad colourful... Might be best to get advice from one of the others on that one Well unfortunately it appears the front break lever is broken. The intake valve is very worn and now it doesn't seem to suck in any break fluid.It looks like being ride ready by Saturday is looking unlikely as i'm going to need a new one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RantMachine Posted March 26, 2016 Share Posted March 26, 2016 Never mind, it'll all be worth it once it's done!If you don't know it already, get yourself along tohttp://www.chinesemotorcyclepartsonline.co.ukYou won't find a better place to order parts for your bike; that site is owned by Llexeter, the same people who own Lexmoto.Word of wisdom, though; if you ever need a new chain, that's the one item you shouldn't buy from there. I bought one of their "heavy duty" ones and it stretched like crazy! But everything else they sell seems decent enough, brake components included. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
seanycozzie16v Posted March 27, 2016 Share Posted March 27, 2016 Once the bike is warm you can turn down the choke, if it's gonna stalk you can just keep it turned up? Either way get it fixed ASAP, check my topic from last week.. My bike was cutting out at traffic lights and on roundabouts.. Was scary as f**k.had this happen to me on a dual carriageway roundabout yesterday! scared the shit out of me!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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