Recommissioning Bandit 600

[Grommet]

Hi I have a Bandit 600 K2 which I have had since 2002 from new and done 11500 miles on it.

I had a period where I suffered Ill health and couldn't ride it, during this time it had fuel stabiliser in it and ran till hot from time to time.

Fast forward to wanting to get it MOT'd and rideable condition.

I drained the fuel and replaced it with fresh fuel, the fuel,tap was stiff- but freed off and it ran lumpy after priming.

I couldn't get it to run right and on third time of trying to start it decided to dump fuel from carb overflows- vacuumed out fuel inlets with oil extractor , I took the carbs off and cleaned with carb cleaner the jets, emulsion tubes etc and got it running to point of being able to take it to an mot.

Low speed Cornering power wasn't great, but I figured lack of use.

Fast forward to a 50mile ride to see if things improved, cylinder 4 rings stuck and fouled plug, swapped plug and no different. I put a small amount of oil down bore and cranked it over- fitted new spark plugs and now it runs on 4 cylinders.

High speed performance it goes as well as I remember, however while bottom end has improved, 3500-4000rpm it goes lumpy and 5000-6000 on occasion.

Carb balance seems ok with vac gauges at 1750 rpm.

I want to order an adapter to compression test, but not sure plug thread size?

I have a fuel tap repair kit as fuel line doesn't completely shut off- will pull tap from tank and check filters on tap- as turning to reserve has no effect.

So I'm left with impression that I hopefully haven't bent a Con rod when it dumped fuel, fuel tap my next point of repair and would like to compression test to check if I have low compression on another cylinder.

Dropping cylinder 1 or 4 plug lead causes 25% loss as expected, dropping 2 or 3 gives increased revs which is weird- stuck rings perhaps after another 40 miles yesterday.

Any suggestions of prior experience welcomed

[ThePhatomfart]

Your spark plug is NGK CR9EK, screw size is m10 with 1.0 thread pitch.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Petrol-Engine-Compression-Tester-Test-Tool-Set-Kit-Gauge-Car-Valve-Motorcycle-UK-/252558836753?hash=item3acdae0411:g:UPIAAOSwzaJX6jb2" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

Workshop Manual 2000-02

https://www.dropbox.com/s/88x4lpcugqhj5ng/Suzuki%20GSF600S%202000-2002.pdf?dl=1" onclick="window.open(this.href);return false;

And welcome to the forum

[megawatt]

Try some wd40 down the bores. Leave 24 hours and try again.

[Guest]

Try some wd40 down the bores. Leave 24 hours and try again.

Seen diesel warmed up just poured down. Oil change afterwards too

[Grommet]

Thank you for the help so far- will download manual onto a laptop tomorrow to read in garage one night after work- far better than the Haynes manual I have.

I know the tank will have to come off again for fuel tap repair kit when it arrives, I can then do a compression test easier

If the compression test isn't the source of my flat spot, bottom end rpm has cleared- could the problem be I cleared the jets and emulsion tubes- but other than a brief check of diaphragms, could sliders be sticking?

Will follow up with my findings and thank you once again for help

[Grommet]

Okay so far I have:-

With help of friend to help move tank -fuel tap repair kit from bandit mania, all the rubber in a bad way on original suzuki.

140psi across all cylinders compression test.

Stripped carbs and checked-original float heights in spec- so put back together.

Put plug leads back on and it ran terrible, scratched head and moved plug leads slightly- fired up and ran so so.

Touched no 2 ignition lead and got a belt off it- repositioned lead and on centre stand flat spot disappeared.

Looked at manuals and it appeared coil factory sealed, dug out old lead as see Taylor's do expensive leads.

Leaves options of

Buy some new ignition lead by meter and sikaflex the lead in coil ( won't be coming out again soon)

Or

Buy two oem coils, but not sure who to buy from for reasonable quality

Thanks for help and suggestions so far

[Mr Fro]

You can wrap some insulating tape round the HT cables to lose the leak in the short term. It's a good enough check if it is the leads at fault and get you on the road for a bit.

[Grommet]

Ok well an update waking the thread.

Low compression on cylinder 3.

After various cleaners and trying redex  +  Castrol 1 racing in gummed engine and things improved

Edited June 19, 2021 by Grommet
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