Cbr600rr 2011 clocks reset when ignition is off

[elwon20]

Symptoms:

Clocks work great, switch off ignition and the tacho sticks wherever it was (doesn't reset to 0) switch ignition back on, clock resets to 1am and trip meters loose values.

Tested:

My immediate thought was it's not getting power with the ignition off.

Checked fuses, there's some custom wiring involving the green/white wires that supply power to the clocks with ignition off but this is apparently the datatool alarm wiring in place.

Checked for voltage at the 20p connector with ignition on as per service manual, all is good 11.4v. Checked for voltage at the 2ndary point with ignition off as per service manual, expect to get 0v. I get 9.4v, wtf? It has power? Then why isn't it working?!

Only things I can think of are f00ked battery, but it starts and turns over just fine. Or f00ked clocks.

Anyone else any ideas?

Update: I connected a 2nd good battery to the main battery using jump leads. The issue is still present

[Grumpy Old Git]

Not sure without looking at the circuitry but, there should be a 'memory module' with a 'keep alive' voltage feed - the current would be very low.

it may be that one of your switch contacts is shot or, a bad connector somewhere.

Not going to be an easy find or fix but unlikely to be the battery.

[elwon20]

I don't think it's power to a memory module as such because the tacho doesn't reset to 0 either, it just sticks wherever it was when the ignition was shut off.

For all intents and purposes it appears as though no power is getting to the instrument cluster when the ignition is off.

But as I say, I've looked at the wiring diagram and checked the voltage at the appropriate points on the instrument plug with the ignition off and it's getting just over 9v. So it is getting power... It's just acting like it isn't!

God I hope I don't need a new instrument cluster!

[skyrider]

I don't think it's power to a memory module as such because the tacho doesn't reset to 0 either, it just sticks wherever it was when the ignition was shut off.

For all intents and purposes it appears as though no power is getting to the instrument cluster when the ignition is off.

But as I say, I've looked at the wiring diagram and checked the voltage at the appropriate points on the instrument plug with the ignition off and it's getting just over 9v. So it is getting power... It's just acting like it isn't!

God I hope I don't need a new instrument cluster!

would that be costly

[Stu]

Was it doing this before the engine removal and mount work?

[ThePhatomfart]

I think you mean the White /Green wire also did you check the White/Black wire for 12v with the ignition on,and the Green/Black wire for continuity to ground .Check for loose/Bad connections .Could also be a problem with the Alarm connection, did you have the Data Alarm put on, I'd take it off ,the HISS works just fine

[Fozzie]

I've had 2 RR's and one had the exact issue. It would reset to 1am.

I'm struggling to remember as it was 6-7 years ago so take the following with a pinch of salt and consult your manual/wiring diagram.

The clocks have a fuse but there is 2 supplies to the clocks. One supply when the ignition is on deals with the speedo and the rev meter, the secondary supply is live all the time and maintains the bikes clock/odometer etc. You can get this issue just by removing that fuse. It will still power with the ignition on, it will then reset to 1am as you've described.

The secondary point is showing 9.4v, which isn't anywhere near the battery voltage. Something is causing a voltage drop. Change the fuse just to rule it out and it costs bugger all, I believe it's a 10A. Then inspect the wiring to that connector. If it has rubbed through, or has been spliced with some other electronics like the datatool, I'd be suspect of that.

[elwon20]

Was it doing this before the engine removal and mount work?

 

Not sure if this issue was happening before the engine was taken out... didn't have the bike long enough to notice.

 

I think you mean the White /Green wire also did you check the White/Black wire for 12v with the ignition on,and the Green/Black wire for continuity to ground .Check for loose/Bad connections .Could also be a problem with the Alarm connection, did you have the Data Alarm put on, I'd take it off ,the HISS works just fine

 

Datatool was fitted by dealer from new.

You're right I did mean white/green wire.

I checked White/Black with ignition on and got 11.something v I don't recall what.

I also tested the white/green wire and got 9.something v.

I'm guessing there is some corrosion somewhere along the white/green wire causing a voltage drop.

I will check the ground to the negative for voltage, and then the white/green to the positive for voltage and see what comes up.

I'll also look into the Green/Black wire continuity.

I don't like the Datatool tbh, but it reduces insurance a bit, it was fitted from new (according to the documents I have) and I'd really rather not go around unwiring it and putting it back to stock if I can avoid it.

 

would that be costly

 

Around £130 for used clocks, but the bike has only done about 30 miles in the month I've had it, and it's cost me over £600 already!

Edited February 10, 2020 by elwon20

[Stu]

I was wondering if a wire had been trapped and cutting it but leaving enough strands to get voltage through but not enough current to power the clocks!

I have had this on a headlight! voltage showing but a partial brake not allowing enough current to run the headlight!

Or as you say some corrosion

[ThePhatomfart]

Yeh could be that the PCB board within the clock is looking for 12v, just a matter of finding where the voltage drop is, I'd check along the splices of the Data Alarm

[elwon20]

Okie, looks like the connector on the right shoulder of the bike the female pins of the white/green had corroded and snapped, causing it to not make proper connection with the male when inserted.

Too deep to solder, I'll be damned if I'm replacing the whole plug, far too many wires! Not replacing the loom either... So I stuffed some tinfoil into the socket as replacement for the missing metal... Working perfectly now. Simple as that!

Thanks for the suggestions all!

[Stu]

[mention]elwon20[/mention] you should be able to buy a pin and replace it

[elwon20]

Ooh good call, didn't know they came out tbh... Are you able to point me in the right direction?

[Stu]

[mention]elwon20[/mention] it depends which pins they are

Can you get a pic?

[elwon20]

@elwon20 it depends which pins they are

Can you get a pic?

 

Looks like I damaged the wiring in the right-hand indicator fixing the wiring for the clocks, so I'm going to have to take the fairing off again anyway.

When I get around to fixing the indicator I'll take some pics of the connector