YBR custom…problem or not?

[YBRCustom]

Hey all,

just after a bit of advise from people who may be a bit more clued up then myself (newbie to 2 wheels)

 

I have a 2011 YBR custom. It has been running great the last couple of months since I owned it. However when out for a ride the other day it appeared to “misfire/ miss a beat” for a second when travelling at around 35/40mph and changing into 5th gear. It was only for a split second and ran fine there after. It was a very hot day 30 degrees and had travelled around 30 miles across hilly countryside prior to this, not sure if the temperature had anything to do with it. However there is a very slight ticking noise now, not sure if it was there prior and I’m now just being paranoid or if it is related. 
I took off the side panel to check the air filter and found that it was half full of oil. Again I’m unsure if this is new oil or it has been over filled by previous owners at some point (the bolt was snapped in the panel so don’t think anyone had bothered to remove properly and check the air filter for some time)

I have a new air filter to fit, a new spark plug (as again this looks very old) and I am also going to do an oil change.

Is the “missed beat” or ticking anything to be concerned about or is there anything I have missed checking? 
Any advise or guidance would be greatly appreciated

Edited September 11, 2023 by YBRCustom

[RideWithStyles]

Well these small air cooled singles are pretty robust within the jap ranks and pretty much the same.

 i dont know the very specific yamaha version but the honda cbf i do.

Now there shouldnt be any if at worst the lightest mists of oil in the air filter bax as they should be dry paper or very unlikely if the owner put a cotton type aftermarket one in but even if it was cotton it would need to be DAMP by a air filter oil which is lighter and cleaner than an engine oil - bit like gun oil and definitely not swimming in it. But im gonna guess the previous owner hasnt done this but you never know...

The two most likely is if the engine has been over filled at one point and its been forced to the air box.

a breather hose is blocked.
A blocked drain pipe which will be between the engine and the air box, this needs regular checking and empting.
 

the very unlikely If the bikes been fallen on its side for abit so oil found its way out, and sat in there.

is if its passing a ring or a seal is giving up.

 

to check the oil, warmed up, put the dip stick sat on top of the first thread/casing, dont turn it into the thread. Its wants to be on the upper of the knurled (honda) or the marking. These things do burn oil, thats normal.
 

Also depending on the oil and when you use it will give better results.
 

No real difference between the part and fully synthetic as most of the time it gets burned off but if your gentle or dont do oil changes often, the fully synthetic might just reduce crud accumulating in slow moving areas (corners of the casing and under the filter mesh or oil deposits sticking to the piston.

spark plugs on them always look old even after a few rides when changed ,5they get alot of abuse due being out at the front with no cover or shade being  brunt of the elements. 

On a personal note :

Cool or cold season the cbf is better on 10-30 rather than the 10-40 as it is just abit thick especially for short journeys.

you can still use the 10-30 in hotter conditions compared to 10-40, if you take it for long rides and rag the little blighter as i do will still burn through the oil at the same rate as 40 only its easier for it on start up if its cold.

 

anyway id just do what youve done new service parts, give the airbox and so forth a good clean up, ride it for a few hundred miles and give it a check over...

Edited September 11, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[YBRCustom]

27 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Well these small air cooled singles are pretty robust within the jap ranks and pretty much work the same way.

 i dont know the very specific yamaha version but the honda cbf i do.

Now there shouldnt be any if at worst the lightest mists of oil in the air filter bax as they should be dry paper or very unlikely if the owner put a cotton type aftermarket one in but even if it was cotton it would need to be DAMP by a air filter oil which is lighter and cleaner than an engine oil - bit like gun oil and definitely not swimming in it. But im gonna guess the previous owner hasnt done this but you never know...

The two most likely is if the engine has been over filled at one point and its been forced to the air box.

a breather hose is blocked.
A blocked drain pipe which will be between the engine and the air box, this needs regular checking and empting.
 

the very unlikely If the bikes been fallen on its side for abit so oil found its way out, and sat in there.

is if its passing a ring or a seal is giving up.

 

to check the oil, warmed up, put the dip stick sat on top of the first thread/casing, dont turn it into the thread. Its wants to be on the upper of the knurled (honda) or the marking. These things do burn oil, thats normal.
 

Also depending on the oil and when you use it will give better results.
 

No real difference between the part and fully synthetic as most of the time it gets burned off but if your gentle or dont do oil changes often, the fully synthetic might just reduce crud accumulating in slow moving areas (corners of the casing and under the filter mesh or oil deposits sticking to the piston.

On a personal note :

 cold season the cbf is better on 10-30 rather than the 10-40 as it is just abit thick especially for short journeys.

you can still use the 10-30 in hotter conditions compared to 10-40, if you take it for long rides and rag the little blighter as i do will still burn through the oil at the same rate as 40 only its easier for it on start up if its cold.

Thank you for the reply! 
Would oil in the air filter have caused the bike to miss a beat? Poor bike was being suffocated given the state of the previous air filter.

I’ve purchased Castrol 10w-40 for the new oil. 

I will check the breather hose too! 
Hoping to do a longer ride out soon and would like the bike running its best in time. 

[RideWithStyles]

Yes quite possible as oil drops would have been added to the air intake, due to the littles  needing loads of revs to make progression  and get hot it would have burnt it off but if a gulp of it or it there wasnt much oil left in the case that can do it.

how much oil came out at the change? Was it the same colour as what was in the air box? 

[RideWithStyles]

Yea ok stuff, dont bother spending a fortune on oil types for them, they won't benefit much.
 if you ride them correctly they will always have fresh old because of the top up and regular small oil changes.

Treat them keenly but miss treating them will keep you mean.

 

Edited September 11, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[YBRCustom]

4 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Yes quite possible as oil drops would have been added to the air intake, due to the littles  needing loads of revs to make progression  and get hot it would have burnt it off but if a gulp of it or it there wasnt much oil left in the case that can do it.

how much oil came out at the change? Was it the same colour as what was in the air box? 

Haven’t dropped the oil out yet, that’s a job for one night this week. 
A fair bit of oil came out, half the air filter appeared to have been in oil!! The small “rubber bung” at the bottom of the air filter case (sorry don’t know what it’s technical name would be) was full of oil, and that oil was pretty murky looked old. 
There’s plenty of oil still showing when dipped (it was supposedly serviced and new oil when I purchased the bike, a couple of months ago) but for my own reassurance that the oil is ok I’m gonna change it. 

[YBRCustom]

4 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Yea ok stuff, dont bother spending a fortune on oil types for them, they won't benefit much.
 if you ride them correctly they will always have fresh old because of the top up and regular small oil changes.

Treat them mean to keep them keen, but miss treat them will break them.

 

It was the first oil that came up when I searched for oils for it…to be fair it was less than a tenner delivered for the litre required so not expensive. Hoping this bike will see me through next couple of years while I decide about doing full license, but with such low running costs, and it still goes everywhere I want it to go lol. That’s why I’m happy to look after it!

[RideWithStyles]

 

yea that pipe/bung is the drain pipe for the air box. Its for small amounts of oil vapour and water/condensation buildup.

There is another that is meant to be checked closer to the back of the engine between the sub frame and the engine- on the cbf is clear flatish tube. This is a breather for the engine, if that is blocked it can slowy suck oil out and load it there and the filter then a mech without checking it will just full it with more oil and the cycle carrys on.

 

Hmmmm... very suspicious.
 

where did you buy it?? 

[RideWithStyles]

Yep fugal little buggers, still astounded when a get a chance to ragg it ... i mean check it over for the wife... i haven't managed below 120mpg try as i might. Then there are the parts...whole chain set cheaper than i could get a front sprocket for my bike... most parts /consumable is mostly 1/4 of the price of biger bikes, tyres cheaper.....

 

yea castrol for it will do the job, but as i say if you do ride in the cold and it seems to not like the cold as much slow to start and lumpy at idle id change it to 10-30.

Edited September 11, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[YBRCustom]

7 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

 

yea that pipe/bung is the drain pipe for the air box. Its for small amounts of oil vapour and water/condensation buildup.

There is another that is meant to be checked closer to the back of the engine between the sub frame and the engine- on the cbf is clear flatish tube. This is a breather for the engine, if that is blocked it can slowy suck oil out and load it there and the filter then a mech without checking it will just full it with more oil and the cycle carrys on.

 

Hmmmm... very suspicious.
 

where did you buy it?? 

I’ll see if I can see where the other breather is and check that too…a bit of Googling should point me in the right direction to find it. 
 

It was from a local motorbike garage, it needed some work doing (new tyres, new brakes etc) but on the receipt it says new oil. However I’m guessing they didn’t do the full service since the bolt was snapped in the side panel meaning it had to be drilled and tapped out and a new bolt to replace it. Thinking they just did the oil to save the hassle. 

[YBRCustom]

4 minutes ago, RideWithStyles said:

Yep fugal little buggers, still astounded when a get a chance to ragg it ... i mean check it over for the wife... i haven't managed below 120mpg try as i might. Then there are the parts...whole chain set cheaper than i could get a sprockets for my bike... most parts /consumable is mostly 1/4 of the price of biger bikes, tyres cheaper.....

 

yea castrol for it will do the job, but as i say if you do ride in the cold and it seems to not like the cold as much slow to start and lumpy at idle id change it to 10-30.

Hubby was shocked at my running costs compared to his “big bike” lol.

Thank you for the advice with the oil! 
Luckily it’s not for commuting…just for riding for the fun of riding. However I still hope to get it out for rides during winter too, so will definitely bare that in mind.