Lexmoto lowride 125 oil change

[Jamieswann]

Hey everyone, hoping to change the oil and the filter fairly soon and was wondering as not really done It myself before if anyone has any suggestion on what may be the best oil to put in? 

 

I've looked at a few but not being mechanical minded I'm unsure what all the different terms mean, all I know is my engine is a 4 stroke engine

 

Thanks in advance for any help 

[RideWithStyles]

Hi Jamie,

 

Not any car oil under any circumstances! 

dont bother with fully synthetic, part synthetic from any known brand will be fine.

Owt from castrol power 1 4t, motul 5100 to name one of their grades but others are available, rock oil gaurdian 4t etc but It will be cheap stuff at about £7-15 per litre.

Changing the oil often with part syn (to the book or earlier if you happy to do it) is better than buying more expensive oil with the mind set of change the oil less often.

Personally id dont and not a fan of reusing sump plug washers, new every time.

rags, brake cleaner, a oil pan, spare container to put the old oil in till you take take it to the recycling centre.

gently pre warm the oil on idle for a couple of mins before changing the oil.

lift off the oil filler plug to allow air to get in so the oil fill flow out at a steady rate rather than glugging everywhere.

 

Yours might be a paper filter in a canister?  You may need a particular tool to get the cap of Or a fabric/spider clamp to get it off?

Tools, torque wrench is best as sump plugs are generally between 30 and 10nm depending on the vehicle which isnt alot but you NEED to know what its for your bike.

 

lube the seals and filters (if possible) with the engine oi@l before fitting, also make sure oil filter cap is tightened to the correct torque setting.

 

 Put in half the oil of its said capacity of the sump which manufacturer says it holds first of iff its on the engine casing? ( a Honda cbf 125 holds 1ltr most other bikes hold 3ltrs so i start at 500mls for the cbf and 1.5  for a 3ltr cap bike at first.
Leave it about 30 secs, test the level with the dip stick cleaned or the sight oil with the bike level off the side stand.

now if you have a dipstick generally is measured with the dipstick sat ontop of the casing and NOT SCREWED IN.

 

 Id Add 150mls on cbf or 500mls with a 3ltr capacity bike at a time till it shows about half way on the dips or window.

 

with the oil filler plug screwed in now start the bike up and let it run for a min or so, and recheck the level ensuring it stays within the min and max, personally id have the level at 3/4s, unless its the cbf so i max that bike level as it has a tiny oil capacity (1ltr) and it naturally burns the oil off with use.

Edited September 19, 2023 by RideWithStyles

[megaross]

See now I disagree with the torque wrench.

 

Unless you're going out and spending a chunk on a norbar or something quality, torque wrenches are generally hit and miss - especially with low torque values.

 

You just need to gently nip up the sump plug, hold the spanner near the bolt and just give it a gentle nip. You're screwing into soft threads so don't welly it - if it leaks still after an extra tiny nip (which I've never seen - never had one leak with a new sump washer) you've probably got shit under the washer.

 

Brake cleaner and a couple of rags will come in handy for the whole operation, as will a funnel.

 

It's not difficult to do, take the bike for a good hard ride, get the oil moving and hot - it'll help kick all the carbon and shit into the oil so it comes out when you drain.

 

Then level the bike, dump your oil (righty tighty left loosey now), clean the oil screen or replace the filter - whatever is applicable to your bike. 125's sometimes have screening things in place of filters.

 

Then wipe the mating service clean and put on a new sump plug washer. Plug in and a gentle nip.

 

Cleaning up serves two purposes here - you won't get a crusty bit under your washer and you'll be able to see if there's any leaks.

 

Refill with the correct oil for your bike, usually 10w40 semi synthetic motorcycle specific oil. Bikes have wet clutches - car oil will make your clutch slip so get proper bike stuff.

 

Aim for halfway up the sightglass/ dipstick notches (notches! Not the bloody stick) on a level surface. You don't want to overfill, that will cause damage, better to aim for halfway between.

 

Run the bike for 30 seconds, tidy up, let the oil settle for a bit. Then check your level again and top up to between min/max markings.

 

Also check for any leaks by wiping round the plug/ filter.

 

Then go have a w**k and a cheese sandwich for a job well done.

 

If something above didn't make sense spend less time on pornhub and get on YouTube for a bit.