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My clutch nooooooooooooooooooooooo


slugworth1987
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hey all


had an eventful day today i was going to ride to the garage today to get myself some fuel for a nice days riding and just as i was about to set off i put the bike on the main stand started her up to let her warm up and when she was warm i put her into 1st stand still down and noticed the wheel was moving with the clutch pulled hmmmm i thought i adjusted the cable from one extream to the other hoping this would fix the issue allas no luck.


i applyed the back break and the engine didnt stall either so the clutch has stuck between partal power and fully in.


well i wasnt impressed after ringing the RAC and finding out they wanted over £100 to come out i hung up and started to ring around my biker friends all saying the same thing "the clutch has burnt out its dead"


so i drained the oil, took of the sump and so it was the notchy bit (diver plate?) you know the bit that has all castle like bits on it 3 of 5 plates are well flush and the metal holey plates are well flush also.


so now im waiting on parts over £50 worth of plateygoodness and a new oil filter for when then oil needs replaceing after clutch wear in.


my friend who is doing the work is also going to replace my gaskets and O rings as well as investigate my Mag and Regulator as the back bulb blows when high revs are introduced and a new white LED bulb for the back wooooooooooooooo.


watch this space for updates


anyone else who has a bad clutch on the EN125 (or equivalent) i will make an idiots guide for these people and hope it will help people in the future.


Sean

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haha thanks was not impressed and only took me 4 hours to get the clutch out haha didnt help i took the left hand side (mag and fly wheel) 1st and thought hmmm strange looking clutch with a wire and magnets lol so yeah right hand side = clutch on the EN, GS, DZ, GR 125 engine

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If you put a bike on the stand , engine running, in gear, and clutch in, the rear wheel will spin..........


its due to the clutch dragging slightly, and that,plus the oil drag causes the wheel to spin.........


With the clutch adjusted properly, was the bike unable to pull away? was it actually slipping under acceleration?

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it was slipping anyway and this morning there was nothing like it was just trying to pull off like i holding the bike on a hill for a hill start but the lever wasnt being touched. normaly when the bike is on the stand no wheel moving apart from the vibration making the wheel move well ossalate but there was no clutch control at all just stuck

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not sure sump is right word i had to remove :


oil filter & oil resivour casing where the clutch is on my bike's engine (right hand side) there is a clutch cover you can remov but to get to it you have to take the side off anyway dumb... ill get some photos and post them up 2morrow


i have looked at the plates also and tthe mid section of the clutch (row 3 and 4?) are well metal. now what i would call tread on one plate (driven?) and the one that is pure stainless with what look like center punches (driver?) are well the little dimples are gone the front 2 plates are wearing and the back 2 are like new still i know its not balenced and theory says swap em and try again but also commen sence says your gonna do more dammage... i know the gears are fine because it will shift up and down happly and spin the wheel but with no extra power withh gas applied.


my uncal a big biker (40 years) said clutch is dead inspect it and then order if the plates are good gearing is the next bit, if gearing is good then well the engine wouldnt work i assume?


the clutch is going to cost me £50 on tues before postage from ebay (Brooks Barn Ltd) i have purchased parts from them before good lot.


the oil filter has no metal shards in it and the oil i filtered again just to make sure was clean apart from the crap out the drip tray (or plant pot in my case) the oil wont be used again i assure you new filter will be replaced after clutch has worn in a little

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It is not easy to diagnose stuff when you cant see it, im sure your uncle is right but what youve described sounds exactly like what was answered earlier.


If it was that screwed youd have noticed on the way to the petrol station.


did you adjust the clutch when you thought it was slipping? if so thats prob when the damage happened.


the clutch wearing wouldnt put metal in your oil, clutch friction material isnt metal ;)

either way 50 quids not bad, just follow the manual carefully when you put it back together, clutches dont really need to bed in.

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i didnt get to the station i couldnt leave the drive lol the night before on my way home from work the clutch was alot worse than normal so when got to the place where i eat after a shift in the pub i saw my mate who said adjust cable a little to sort out the slack and order a new one he could feel it slipping to on a quick ride oon the side road.


and that morning there was nothing no power to the wheel just an idle spin even with gas added just an idle spin

_______________________________________________________________

EDIT:

the oil inspection was me making sure the engine or other part of tthe oil doused system wasn't chewing its self to bits


i did though find metal particals this morning next to my front cog stuck in chain grease i assume its teeth wear or chain as its outside the engine caseing

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just an update:


New clutch Fitted

Red LED back bulb installed

Sat Nav holder installed

White LED (compter mod lol) put under the Break Light Lens wired into back bulb.


Front headlight adjusted

Full reloob of chain, cogs, speedo, tacho etc.



Todo List:

Clean Exhaust Baffal and Exhaust pipe

clean carb

Edited by slugworth1987
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