PhatDads motorbike problems

[Stu]

get digging you have a bad earth

good look

[PhatDad]

Best way of doing that is?

[Stu]

stip the bike and check the wiring thats the only way really

have you got a multimeter ? you could do a contonuity test on the loom

i suspect it will be the main earth strap

actually it could also be the main live cable too check that aswell

i had a bike before where a cable had worn through and water got in and corroded the wire my headlight would work on low beam fine but put it on high and the cable couldnt carry the extra power

[PhatDad]

Strip the bike? It took an hour to change a bloody rear light.

[Stu]

like i said good luck

its took me hours to find electrical problems before but worth it in the end

even done it in the pissing rain!!!!

[PhatDad]

I've just realised you're only an hour and half away. eh, aren't you?

[PhatDad]

Another question, how come it works fine earlier in the day but then at tonight it's not worked? I still had the lights on etc in the day. Wouldn't a bad earth cause the same problem day or night, new battery or old?

[Guest]

not read back fully but if a battery is on its way out cold weather can in effect rob power from it hence why in daytime (warmer ) it works but night time it don't

[slugworth1987]

think your altonator might have a bug i would get on the phone to Suzuki they may be able to assist or a suzuki garage just ask them for tips and advice i got work friday afternoon if i didnt i would come down and we could attack it

[Stu]

oh aswell as a bad earth it could also be a faulty reg/rec breaking down when it gets warm

[slugworth1987]

we need a multimeter and a battery charger

if you wanna ride up to mine or risk riding upto mine should i say lol mind u if the altonator was duff it wouldnt run... and why would the batt go flat because like stu said it runs off the charging circuit...

i found out when my bike runs off the charging circuit alone i get the following issue

No flasher for indis

very dim front lights

no tacho

no pannel light for the clocks

[PhatDad]

I can only think it's a live wire shorting out somewhere. It must be.

Brand new battery wouldn't lose it's charge within a few hours unless it was being drained somehow. Even if the alternator had gone I'm sure the battery only a couple of hours old would still have enough juice to at least start the bike unless there was a live short draining it in the mean time.

So as Stu I think it was said, I think I need to strip it down and check each wire.

Are you free on Sunday Slugworth?

[Stu]

have i missed something

has the new battery drained whilst been ridden ?

[PhatDad]

I popped the new battery in yesterday at 2pm. It all worked a treat. I ran into town on it, parked up, grabbed Guitar hero from Argos, jumped back on bike and came home. All worked well.

Then popped it in the garage. Five hours later I take the bike out, start it up no problems, ride about 500 yards down the road, hop off it to use the bank and then it won't start. Same symptoms as before. I had to switch all lights off before I could bump start it. Gave it some serious revs before turning the lights on, heard it try and cut out but kept it going. Managed to ride home with it stalling a couple of times when I put the indicators on and even on a hill would only lock the back wheel up and skid rather than bump start. Just about managed to get it home without having to push it.

I've disconnected the battery overnight and not had a chance to look at it today. I have however been to the automotive shop to get my old battery back which is probably ok. Charging that over night tonight so I can swap them over for testing purposes tomorrow.

[slugworth1987]

dont know what else could be the issue

Reg/Rect

Altonator

loose wire

loose connection on the main bus

[slugworth1987]

the bike shares the same engine & wireing to the following bikes

gs, gn, en & dz 125 after an hour of google searching i have given up trying to find a manual

i know from the en125 the altonator is a little weak but still pumps out 65vac minamum and the rec kicks out a healthy 14v to the batt and system.

now if its not spewing out 13.5v + the batt wont charge as its lead its constant volt not current so the batt will only draw the amp it needs but suck 13v if not more.

now if the rectifire was the issue the system for batt and lights would die as the battery did... the mag/alt runs on a 2nd line also to the coil i think so engine will sustain (commen sence says this) so i think it maybe the reg but to find this out it would envolve disconecting batt after start and checking voltage on line... the bulbs will work from about 4volts so they will light but will be dim and drain the alt/mag current produced thus causing engine splutter i think.

plan now ian would be to start her up and check this im sure u can scrounge a multi metre.

if it is the reg/rec

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-EN125-Regu ... m153.l1262

worst is worse and the mag is shot

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-EN125-magn ... m153.l1262

says en but there the same engine if you look lol

very nice bloke also try calling him for advice

[PhatDad]

Cheers dude.

I'm going to try and check the wiring later today. I can't quite recall if this problem was happening before I changed the rear tail light and to do so I had to remove the whole rear end almost. My memory is so crap I can't recall if it was happening before then, but I don't think it was, so if that's the case then there's a chance it might be an easy fix as it's only a couple of wires that it could be. Here's hoping. There's no fingers crossed emoticon. Have to use that instead.

[TC]

Thats the same simptions i had. Start fine short ride wouldn't start had to bump it. after a while starts to Kangaroo and cut out like fuel was starved.

Mine turned out to be the Rectifier.

I got a Multi-meter checked the battery with everything turned off. Started the bike checked at idle and the at 5000 revs to see what was being put back in. Everything was fine.

So took it for a ride and tested the battery again at 5000 revs and the voltage was really low.

What was happening was the rectifier was overheating and cutting out while i was riding.

[PhatDad]

I've done what I can but as I don't know jack about using a multimetre I'm a little stuck.

However, as I was looking under the petrol tank at the cable there and checking to see if they are all connected properly I noticed a white connector that when I pulled it a red wire came out and the tip of the wire was oxidised quite badly. I've inlcuded a couple of photos which sort of show it

Any idea what this connector is? And what is the connector that has three yellow cables going into it?

Bloody forum made me add it landscape and not profile. Sorry

[slugworth1987]

clean the pin off with scotch bright but disconnect the batt just incase its live 12v will hurt lol

push the pin back in the connector cleaned and lovely make sure its making a good connection

start the bike and wait for a couple of mins (say 5 - 10) then disconnect the plug and see what happens

after its completely disconnected check everythign electrical: lights horn and just tap the start button youll hear a mild scream come from it but dont hold it or bye bye starter and after all is checked, bring revs up and check lights again then after all is done check the kill switch and you may find the lil plug is the charge return to the batt wooooooo

if you wanna limp up sunday day we can play i got work @ 5 or i can come to you with a tail pack of tools and toys lol

[slugworth1987]

I FOUND MY EN USER MANUAL IT HAS A WIRE DIAGRAM!!!!!!

ITS THE OUTPUT FROM THE STABLIZED RECTIFIRE! YOUR CHARGING SYSTEM ACRODING TO THIS DIAGRAM ACCORDING TO COLOUR SYSTEM

i have said this as the GZ use's the same frame, engine and wire system (apart from the gear ID light and RPM gauge)

a copy or photo will be added asap!

http://i56.photobucket.com/albums/g189/slugworth1987/hahacircuitdiagramlol222.jpg

Edited November 29, 2008 by slugworth1987

[PhatDad]

I have the Haynes manual here too so we should be able to sort it. The bike was running lovely yesterday the couple of times I ran it. I'm going to test it today to see if it's the same as before or ok.

[slugworth1987]

best of luck please let me know via text, phone, msn, pm or here lol

the three yellow ones are your AC system from the alt to reg it should be a 3phrase AC system to stop DC drop outs i think looking at the mag and wireing.

3phase AC = always on, basicly DC

hope all is well and the connector will need replacing or a propper repair but as a tempory messure clean the pin, push it in untill it feels secure then secure it using lecy tape or ductape

[PhatDad]

Thanks mate. Although I can't make out any of that diagram due to the writing being blurred. I don't know electrics very well. I'll look in the haynes though as it has a diagram itself.

Here's another question. There is, tucked away under the petrol tank, what looks like a white, round connector. But it looks as though it's only one half of the connectioned and missing what should go in it. Is it a regular thing on most bikes that lets you plug something else in or is it something in particular? I couldn't get a decent photo of it though and if i recall it's a bit blurred in one of the other photo's i've already added.

[slugworth1987]

been riding with Ian today and whitnessed the issue when we got back to his got the old multimeter out and found the AC in is fine. the DC out from the reg is putting out 0.14v and 0.005A... its getting warm though but a volt meter doesnt lie lol its open circuit also in the way of resistance so tells me something is burnt out after the AC input:

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Three-phase_electric_power << 3 phase AC used on bikes and cars and many other use's

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rectifier << how rectifires work and what they do