Leaky fork seal

[chrisgatguis]

Hi all,

I've noticed my farks have oil on them after bouncing the front forks up and down with brake on.

I'm going to do them myself (well with my dads help).

Just wondered if anyone can recommend somewhere online that i can get the seals from - i've seen them on ebay but i also want fork oil and some other service related bits and peices so getting it all from the same place would be ideal.

Also, i've got the Haynes manual and service manual in PDF format for a Suzuki GS 500 E if anyone wants them.

Dont know if someone wants to host them or something?

Disclaimer: I dont know if giving out the Haynes Manual in PDF is particularly legal

[Stu]

get the seals from a main suzuki dealer they arent that much

ps do what you like with the manual as long as its not hosted on the forums server

[Guest]

Hi all,

I've noticed my farks have oil on them after bouncing the front forks up and down with brake on.

I'm going to do them myself (well with my dads help).

Just wondered if anyone can recommend somewhere online that i can get the seals from - i've seen them on ebay but i also want fork oil and some other service related bits and peices so getting it all from the same place would be ideal.

Also, i've got the Haynes manual and service manual in PDF format for a Suzuki GS 500 E if anyone wants them.

Dont know if someone wants to host them or something?

Disclaimer: I dont know if giving out the Haynes Manual in PDF is particularly legal

 

Try WEMOTO

http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=5834405

Fork Oils || DVD Guide - How To Repalce Fork Seals

Fork Dust Seals Pair @ 15.65

Fork Oil Seal Pair - Japanese Quality [Part Information] @ 7.83

Fork Oil - Synthetic - Rock Oil - 1 Litre [Part Information] @ 7.95

[chrisgatguis]

Cheers for the replies, ended up ebaying the fork / dust seals and got juice from Halfords..

I've started the job now and i'm taking photos, hope noone minds me uploading them as i go, it might take me several days though..

Its probably a bit OTT with all the stages but just try and put up with it!

Propping her up (didn't know what I was doing)

Remove speedo cable

Remove two bolts

Hang the caliper out the way

Remove the wheel / axle / bolt

Ready to get forks off

[chrisgatguis]

Hi all,

I've ran into a problem with one of my forks.

One side has gone totally fine and i'm about to replace the seal and put back together.

the other side however i cannot seem to unscrew the damper rod bolt as the damper rod is spinning freely internally.

This is happening even if both parts are held still. in the Haynes it suggests compressing the spring (so i put the top bolt back on and tightened it) and forced the tube to compress (as much as i could) and STILL it doesn't slakken the allen key bolt....

I've actually looked down the tube with a torch and its deffinitely freely spinning inside.

The Haynes also says to stick a broom handle inside to hopefully contact the damper rod enough to stop it spinning.

tried that too. I'm stumped especially seen as the other side is fine.

Anyone got any ideas?

Cheers

Chris

[Guest]

does it anywhere in the haynes give an alternative tool to use

with kawasaki they have a "hex" head inside the shock that you can get a bolt and two locknuts fixed into a socket or similar to fit in ...

or with broom handle place something like gaffer tape on the end to give it more friction capability

[Stu]

an impact gun usually does the trick to slacken the bolt

[chrisgatguis]

yeah it does have a hex head like this:

Yeah I kinda see what you're saying so, the extension part of my rachet set and then i'd need like a large bolt or something to fit into it....

but short bolt with nuts on so that i can jam it in the end of the rachet extension .... Just wondering if theres anything i can use to try that..

cheers for the idea!

[Guest]

if you can

a: find a bolt to fit that size

b:two nuts to fit the bolt

c: a ssocket to fit the above

place the two nuts on the bolt and lock them together ( tighten one nut up against the other and fit this into the socket and then tape it in to the socket using insulting tape or similar and then using your extension bars to get ratchet to atatch tot hese and then undo

or even a square piece of steel/bar thatsits in to the "hex" tightly will suffice

[Guest]

also try the front wheel spindle nut for size

[chrisgatguis]

also try the front wheel spindle nut for size

 

Cheers Tim, I've found a socket which is for taking out spark plugs, it has one square end which fits perfect! I think i'll wedge the broom handle on to that (or something like that) and then should have enough force / friction which should help!

Cheers i'll let you know the outcome!

[Guest]

you may be able to get the extension bar into the socket in reverse ( through the socket section etc ) but hope it all goes well for you ......

[chrisgatguis]

Just chatting to Dan and its quite hard to explain so i'm stickin a couple more pics up of 'the thing' lol...

okay this is the one i've taken out already, laid next to the bottom part of the fork roughly where it would be..

This is the end which you get to from the bottom of the fork - allan key job (using bar for leverage)

this is the other end which i can see spinning round freely when unscrewing the alan key (i think its called the Damper rod)!

This is the device i've created to grip the damper rod from inside the fork its a broom with a spark plug socket on the end. its forced on. Idea being stick this right down the fork to lock into the damper rod from inside.. Still doesn't loosen though so i can only guess my spark plug thing is slipping round!!

[Guest]

wrap some tape around the end to make it a bit nbigger and push it in as hard as you can

[chrisgatguis]

good call i'll try again in the morning - gettin dark now!

And cheers for the response btw appreciate it !

[Guest]

your doing it the long way round, as you have the forks out of the yolks,

take of the dust covers,

release the spring clips/circlips and compress the leg,

the seal will be forced up the leg and voila,

take it out over the top of the leg then grease the new one,

slide down the leg follwed by the circlip and dust cover, and spacers etc. push home refit circlip and dust cover, change oil and replace in yolk.

[chrisgatguis]

Hi Walney, thanks for the reply.

I've ran into further trouble... I managed to get the damper rod released okay with the broomstick + Spark plug socket solution..

I've put it all back together but i can't get the top bush back down far enough to give me enough space for the washer and oil seal to move down far enough to put the clip on.

I can see the top bush go down and i've applied pressure to it and it does move in slightly but not enough to give me the space.

I've tried putting the washer / new seal in, then cushioned by the old oil seal over the top i've tapped it down with a plastic thing (end of a plastic cartridge gun) but still it doesn't move..

any ideas? I'm thinking there is a specialist tool which would just slot over the fork tube enough for a tight fit to push things down?

stumped

[Guest]

Hi Walney, thanks for the reply.

I've ran into further trouble... I managed to get the damper rod released okay with the broomstick + Spark plug socket solution..

I've put it all back together but i can't get the top bush back down far enough to give me enough space for the washer and oil seal to move down far enough to put the clip on.

I can see the top bush go down and i've applied pressure to it and it does move in slightly but not enough to give me the space.

I've tried putting the washer / new seal in, then cushioned by the old oil seal over the top i've tapped it down with a plastic thing (end of a plastic cartridge gun) but still it doesn't move..

any ideas? I'm thinking there is a specialist tool which would just slot over the fork tube enough for a tight fit to push things down?

stumped

 

push the fork leg to push the seal out of its seat, get the old seal and check for similarity, if the seal is not original and off the web, it could be you have the wrong one, this happened to me on a Katana

otherwise, put the washer over the seal, as not to damage it, then push down with a flat bladed screwdriver on the washer working at 12 / 6 / 9 and 3 as in a clock face until it sits right.

or fit the seal to an extended leg, then compress the leg (this is without internal spring) this should slide the seal into place, fit rest of gubbins then extend leg, to fit spring and oil.

otherwise get a length of tube, thicker than stanchion (chrome bit) and slide down, possibly white plumbing tube from B&Q..

hint for oil, take a wire coathanger, cut it and straighten, the bend to correct oil depth, and use as a dipstick, add oil continually checking depth,

or get a syringe (large) and some washer tube, cut tube to length/depth, then put it in fork and pull out plunger to take out excess oil..

alternatively measure oil in measuring jug and use exact same cc per leg

[chrisgatguis]

Right, just want to say thakns to everyone who's posted on here and also helped in the Chat late at night!

I've finally got it all sorted so i'm just sticking the last photos on. bits were a bit challenging but thanks to you lot I got there in the end!

I noticed such a difference in how the front moves, much slower, more resistance.

Suprising the difference in oil removed vs. oil replaced. Must have been leaking quite a while.

Also the grime in the oil and on the seal.

Deffinitely was worth doing.

I think I've saved probably about 70 quid over taking it to the garage.

Thats only because i had to get a couple of things like rubber mallet, locktite and piping etc.

Thanks again all.

P.S. Does this warrent moving to the how to section ? lol

After I managed to get the damper rod out, its just a case of taking off the bush / washer and seal, fit the fork back together, refit the damper and stick everything back on the tube. Heres the bush going on

Stick the washer on

Ended up improvising the 'fork seal driver' by getting some tubing from BnQ, normal 40mm tubing was ideal for my size fork. I got a nice shiny bit for £10 (thought it was actually chrome but it was just chrome finish) Slide it on over the Fork tube, so that it buts up to the washer

give it a good thrash to get the top bush to pop down further into the slider (gives you enough room to fit the seal in place)

Stick rubber oil seal in place, repeat previous method with the BnQ pipe to push the rubber seal right down into place (so you can see the groove running round) be careful as its only rubber. Replace the clip (fits in groove)

fit dust seal (mine was pretty tough to get in so give it a good wack with the rubber hammer

Measure out the oil and pour in (compressed)(I just put a mark on the jug, figured as long as they are both the same i can't go far rong)

now make sure the oil is the right distance from the top of the tube. I just dipped screw driver in much like you engine oil dip stick, put a mark on the screw driver to show me where it should go to.

Stick the spring, washer and then spacer in (need to extend the forks)

Screw top bolt back on as best you can

[chrisgatguis]

Last step!

Finally, slide the forks up through the yolks, tighten the bottom yolk, this holds the fork still whilest you tighten the top bolt. Afterwards, tighten the top yolk pinch bolt.

Repeat for other fork

Voila, job done!

[craig]

job welldone in the end