Guest Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 (edited) GS500E, GSF600/S, GSX600F/750F/1100F, GSX-R600/750W/1100W, RF600R/900R, TL1000R/S, GSF1200, GSX1300RWell, if you've ever changed the pads on a Bandit then this is probably common to you..I've just checked my pads and they needed changing.the black plastic cover unclips from the underside, then the srping clip which holds the retaining pins is can be eased out.however, this is where it goes wry.. the pins seize in postion, them being steel into an alloy caliper..so if you cant get them out..your going to need new pads, seals and brake fluid, and some tools and gloves.loosen the caliper hanger bolts, and the allen bolts (these hold the 2 sides of the caliper together) this is easier whilst you have the bike as a vice top hold the caliper.undo the torque arm bolts (probably both ends as the torque rusts, so could do with a clean and paint).undo the hose banjo bolt and poke the hose into a milk bottle to catch the fluid.http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/21-05-09_2010.jpgremove the caliper, and wash down the wheel & tyre to remove any spilt brake fluid.take a plastic bucket or large container to hold all the bits.. and move into the warm.using an 8mm socket remove the bleed nipples, these may be stuck, but persevere and be forcefull without brutish, so as not to break them.put all metal parts in degreasant or brake cleaner..undo the 2 allen bolts fully and prise the 2 halves of the caliper apart.slide the pads off the retaining pins and recover the anti-squeal shims and spring clips, again, into the cleaner..using grips remove the retaining pins.the pistons can be removed and new seals fitted, refitting, apply copperease to the threads of each bolt and the retaining pins, or brake grease. the pins are under the caliper so won't drop onto the pads build the caliper, by putting in the new caliper seal (small o-ring) and tightening the allen bolts.refit the bleed nipples.push the pistons back to accomodate new pads and the disc..refit the the torque arm and the caliper onto the hanger.attach the brake hose. and the caliper to the torque armslide the pads in from underneath with the anti-squeal shims and spring clips. slide in the (greased) retaining pins, so put the nearest pad in first, then the one closest the wheel.fit the pin retaining clip and cover.bleed the brakes with fresh fluid, and adjust the stop light switch.check all bolts for tightness and take it easy on the rear brake until its had chance to settle/bed in.Job done.(i'm at the take apart stage...... ) will edit with pics when i have them.heres the parts.http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/21-05-09_2008.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/21-05-09_2012.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/21-05-09_2011.jpgtook the opportunity to strip and paint the torque arm, whilst i'm at it..http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/21-05-09_2009.jpgWell the parts arrived Friday am, so I inserted the new seals and applied a little brake fluid.. then slid the pistons in (brake fluid made them easier to insert) copper-greased the back of the pads and anti-squeal shims (brass plates) then inserted the pads and clips etc.. (i'd drilled the retaining pins holes out by one size, should make it easier for removal next time, and the retaining pins should stop them from working loose.) then refitted to bike last night, along with bleeding the system, then took for a test ride..http://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/22-05-09_1031.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/22-05-09_1544.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/22-05-09_1836.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/23-05-09_1152.jpghttp://i250.photobucket.com/albums/gg250/simonevans73/23-05-09_1153.jpg Edited May 23, 2009 by Anonymous Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Wow, what was it you were saying to me a while back about doing it the long way round?! I had that problem but just cut through the retaining pins with a hacksaw blade! Then I pushed out the pin on the outer most side, removed the pad and I could then get in with some pliers on the remainder of the pin Not the greatest design in the world. I just put a blob of copper slip on the end of mine and they come out nice and easy now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 20, 2009 Share Posted May 20, 2009 Wow, what was it you were saying to me a while back about doing it the long way round?! I had that problem but just cut through the retaining pins with a hacksaw blade! Then I pushed out the pin on the outer most side, removed the pad and I could then get in with some pliers on the remainder of the pin Not the greatest design in the world. I just put a blob of copper slip on the end of mine and they come out nice and easy now.i knew i was goona have trouble with the pins so decided as i was changing fluid to drop the caliper anyway, plus i could then get inside,.. didn't think about cutting the pins... note for next time.. but will fit new piston seals whilst i have them split.thanks for the info.. will bear it in mind next time, but yes, a dob of copper grease is defo in order.. just finished cleaning and have put the bits in oil, until the seals and pads come from Wemoto, hopefully friday.. cost £34.12 for pads (GG), seal kit and brake fluid.. just glad i spotted it before the MOT next month, rear pads were shot.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 I just remembered, I didn't use a hacksaw blade in the end because I couldn't get it to fit...I used a chisel and a mallet! Not the gentlest approach but it worked with no side effects! Well done for spotting them, I always get edgy around MOT time! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stu Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 they use the same caliper on a lot of bikes especially suzuki's so its not just the bandit so this will probably apply to most bikes so keep on top of this caliper guys as its a twat once it gets seized up ive had fun with a few of these Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Yeah I've heard a lot about other people having trouble. When I was doing mine I read about some chap and his dad having fun showing the caliper a blow torch and a few other 'wicked uncles'. Not too sure what happened in the end, I think he foolishly boiled his brake fluid and ruined the tyre because he was lazily trying to do it with the caliper still on the bike! Oh how I laughed verily Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted May 21, 2009 Share Posted May 21, 2009 Yeah I've heard a lot about other people having trouble. When I was doing mine I read about some chap and his dad having fun showing the caliper a blow torch and a few other 'wicked uncles'. Not too sure what happened in the end, I think he foolishly boiled his brake fluid and ruined the tyre because he was lazily trying to do it with the caliper still on the bike! Oh how I laughed verily I think next time you get the chisel out you post it on you tube... then i can LMAO.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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