Fozzie

Is your bike shaft driven? I read recently the extra stresses of shaft drive can cause the back disc to warp easier. That may well be wrong but it could be a cause

The Honda CBR600F led the way for practical sports bikes since it started production in the late 80's. The last incarnation of this breed was the F6, which finished production in 2006 due to EU regulations. The later F models came with Honda's 'foxeye' front fairing bringing the looks of the bike up to date under pressure from customers who found the look of the older models slightly behind especially for a bike as mechanically brilliant as this. Perfect as a beginners sports bike, but used by experienced riders from all around due to its practicality. The standard F came with a 110BHP producing inline 4 engine supposedly able to top 160mph. Coupled to the fact it was then well mannered in town, 2 up and calm and settled on a motorway the CBR ticked all the right boxes for many. The bikes are well priced and you often get more than you pay for. With the introduction of the newer Hornet based model as well the prices for these gems have dropped significantly this year. The aftermarket parts industry for these bikes is massive due to them being very popular and spares are plentiful. In terms of reliability they are near on unstoppable. With the exception of the cam chain tensioner which was known for getting "rattly" after 30k miles or so there have been no horror stories as you'd expect with a bike possessing such a rich heritage. MPG in town is not bad for a sports bike, turning out 45mpg in town and 60mpg on the motorway. With a 4.8 gallon tank and a reserve gauge to warn you when you are getting low you can make london to manchester on a single tank. The full fairing is very protective of the rider and does a good job of keeping the rain off. The seating position accomodates the taller rider very well and the seat and suspension allow for a very balanced bike in terms of handling and comfort. To top it all off the bike has a centre stand allowing you to do most of your own servicing on the bike with great ease. The service schedule is good with reasonably spaced intervals. The bike rarely needs extensive work and balancing the throttle bodies takes 10 minutes with the fairings off. The niggles with this bike are the air ducts, which hit your hands when you turn the bars onto full lock unsettling a rider very easily. The bike has a snatchy nature on warm up so its is suggested you let it run for a couple of minutes before setting off. The seat is also very slippy for pillions prompting purchase of a Tribo seat cover. This bike having a centre stand and 14kg less weight than the brand new one prompts me to say that the new one is pointless whilst good examples of these are still around. The F6 got the FS engine, which went into the first CBR600RR and the uprated suspension front and back while keeping the comfy one piece seat. So for a first sports bike, or do it all sports bike. The CBR600F was well and truly built for the masses. http://pics.adoos.co.uk/51610853fb23583bd540e65cccebdb51-1-3-honda-cbr-600-f6-599cc-silver-2006-silver-3-owners.jpg Honda CBR600F6 07 Plate £4500 with 3 months warranty 8300 Miles

I use the chemical metal too, epic stuff! You can get it from Maplins, titanium based stuff, steel based stuff etc Glad to hear you got the problem fixed

Go to the toilet... A lot of old people where i work... the old boys seem to miss the toilet... All over the seat f**k it

Any change? Next time this happens... Buy Suzuki

Do it again then check the plug, is it wet? As if it was then you have too much petrol going in, which is what it sounds like as the idle jet is working fine but the main jet is drawing too much... But that maybe wrong as these problems are ambiguous at best So as Stu said check the air filter, make sure all the vacuum hoses are all clear and go to the right places etc

If it doesnt charge then the alternator or the reg/rec has gone... Check connections to the reg/rec and see if its just that as well as the alternator. There are plenty on ebay usually so you could try to get one cheap first to see if that works before shipping it off?

Might be paranoia? I am the same way when I drop a bike. I think theres a new rattle or similar and usually there never actually is! But if its the foot peg area just make sure its on securely. Does the vibration increase with revs?

My last and current CBR600F's do not like starting when they have a hot engine believe me! But the erratic revving at temperature is odd... When you say erratic how so? Could just need plugs as that cured the problem with the land ladies car recently

You alright mate? Go a bit further back, do you have clip on bars? (As in the bar is held on by clamps in the middle) And if so can you get a cafe race style set of bars for the bike? As if you can get them the right size and diameter you are sorted. Then you just have to swap the assemblies onto that set of bars and give yourself some space at the end of the bars for those mirrors. Like these... http://www.rolandsands.com/categories/cafe-sportster http://www.cyrilhuzeblog.com/wp-content/uploads/clipon3.jpg

Michelin Just got the pilot road 2ct put on my bike and they lived up to their expectations easily!

Any progress in the last week or so?

Looking good I like watching these threads too, always good to see progress. And there seem to be more and more projects sprouting out of no where!

You peeled your arse off? It had to go... It had a crack in it

Manufacturer: Kawasaki Model: ER6F Seat height: 790mm Power: 71BHP Torque: 66NM MPG: 55-75mpg Fuel capacity: 15.5 litres Price paid: £5100 http://motorbike-search-engine.co.uk/2009-motorcycles/kawasaki-er-6f.jpg It was a brand new 11 plate, and I thought just over 5k for a new bike was pretty good. I have added the MCN review below but there are bits I disagree on and also bits I want to make clear. Firstly while I do think this is a good commuter and first big bike, It is much more than either of those things. Kawasaki call it their urban warrior and even that doesn't fit properly in my opinion, given the bikes character. It will happily go through towns but god is it hot running. The fan comes on even on cold days within a minute of being sat at the lights, I have a CBR600F which with its higher tuned engine takes much longer to get that hot. And the heat it throws onto your legs when the fan comes on is annoying especially in summer when you are melting without the help of your bike. It will munch up motorways and do it especially well with a touring screen. It is viby I will add, which adds to the fatigue of a long journey. But it is not a vibration thats hard to live with, its constant and not very noticeable though. It gives the bike more feel and also a feel of more grunt when it accelerates. You won't be going especially fast but you will feel like its 20-30mph more. It corners excellently, its handling in the bends is unique. It is sharp and easy to bank over, but is confidence inspiring and the stock bridgestones inspire you to keep leaning further. I used it to travel from Warrington to NW London via backroads and there it made sense. It is amazing fun to use on those little adventures around Britains more under used A roads. A charming little all rounder I would say. My gripes with it are that it will corrode quickly if not looked after. Try not to leave it outside and wash it down if you have used it through bad conditions a number of times. Otherwise the first thing to corrode is the levers and the rear master brake cylinder, shortly followed by the exhaust and rear shock bolts. Good bits: 1. Affordable to buy, insure, and fuel 2. Highly fun mini-adventure bike 3. Ninja looks 4. Better than the other 650's around currently Bad bits: 1. Rusts quickly 2. Tax is £70, £20 more than a super sports 600 because it has an extra 50cc (but makes much less emissions) 3. Using it for long distance is not the best move Top tips: If you want the fun side of this bike, and aren't dont do many motorways, buy the Kawasaki ER6N. Much more unique looking, just as fun and £500 cheaper at the dealers for a bit of fairing. Its mechanically identical, so it makes sense. http://www.motorzoneuk.com/modules/cardirectoryspl/images/3054_1.jpg And finally the review: http://www.motorcyclenews.com/MCN/biker ... 9-current/

Soak it in petrol, its what I did to an old one and it seemed to eat through the residue but leave my laquer alone... Just dont stand near it when you do it for too long... I was on my arse soon after wondering why I felt light headed and dizzy It then just peeled off when I got a bit of it up then put more petrol on it.

Daelim Roadwin is now in there if you read and the standard YBR is in the post so I may put a side note explaining the difference between that and the custom version

Right, I had one of these and ran it for a year. Some of my most fond memories are on this bike so my memory is pretty good in telling you the good bits and the bad bits. It was a 2004 Aprilia RS50, with 10,000 on the clock already (impressive for what was at the time a 2 year old machine) and it was fully serviced but a little bit tatty. Cost me £1400 and I sold it for the same. They are now electronically restricted but the old model is restricted at the exhaust. If you are 17 and you take this out the bike is capable of a healthy 55-60mph and will accelerate well between 3000rpm and 8000rpm. That is the top of its rev range when its derestricted in that manner, taking it higher is pointless and wears the engine. But how was it? It started up every day, sometimes with a struggle on the choke before it spluttered into life. Cold starts were very tricky but it would always go. I allowed it to warm up and off I popped, it would kick out a lot of blue smoke for the first few miles until it was properly warmed up. It had plently of go compared with the other 50's available and obviously I felt it was more confidence inspiring to be on a full sized motorbike compared with the weedier scooters. It developed a few problems throughout the year I owned it. Firstly it felt like it had seized but it was the crank case seals going that caused a sudden jolt and lock up of the back wheel. This is expensive to fix only because it is labour intensive, the engine takes a few hours to take apart and a few to put back together so take that option as a mechanic charged me £400 for it mostly in labour. It then was dieing for a top end rebuild so that is what it got, a good new top end and a different cylinder head. The good thing with these bikes as you can pick and mix parts to get a different affect on power etc. Overall it was fantastic, when it was later tuned up it was able to chase down and beat the CBR125 in a race. It also went on a back road journey, which went on for 16 hours from Warrington to Swansea and back. It wasn't very comfortable but it managed it and went on to be used the next day. Little niggles to look out for! 1. If it struggles to find neutral or select gears you need knew gear box oil and adjust the clutch so it isnt dragging as this effects it very badly 2. Use the best 2-stroke oil available. Any forum will tell you and its by Putoline. 3. Even though its liquid cooled on a hot day in town you will conk out every once in a while. Open the fuel tank and check there and just let it cool down if it splutters and stops. Otherwise a perfect first bike for the modern young blooded biker. In terms of riding and mechanics I ran it every day, even in winter and with the right maintanence and keeping it clean and tidy you will find they don't give up easily. They want to be loved. I had the same scheme as the one below http://www.maxmoto.co.uk/images/aprilia_rs50_2004_l.jpg

It's always the simple things... How odd though that the fuse governing the front light also has say over whether your bike works I would suspect there maybe an underlying problem but ride it for a while if it works and see what happens

His bike barely did 50mph when he bought it... It has an unofficial speed of 201mph. It was timed but wasnt an official run.

The accident with Kobayashi I see a bit differently as he moved out to take the race line through the bend as you'd expect... I dont see what Kobayashi was hoping to do going on the outside like that... But I dont think blame sits on one side entirely!

Take them to a tip and recycle them Some batteries come dry charged, which means you put the acid in, let it settle and then its good to go. Some need filling up and charging but thats about all i know

The rectifier/regulator is a small device on the bike that looks like this... http://www.bikestrikesnstuff.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/2011/01/large-thumb-regulator-rectifier.jpg Your bikes alternator will produce power, this then goes in its raw form to the reg/rec where it is turned into nice 12 volt DC. This is used to charge your battery. If the device fails completely or doesnt work properly your battery wont charge correctly or at all. Meaning it wont start and then causing the electrics to dim as the battery dies until it completely dies. A way to check is to see if the battery charges well but then doesnt hold charge when the bike is run. If it works fine and then dies again its a sign that it could be the rec/reg Hope that helps

Using a mates trade number (you need them with you) I got 5 litres of oil, a battery and a set of 4 spark plugs for £38. Hence why for everyone else its wise to call them "Halfrauds"

Thats one hell of a parking light to flatten a battery inside 2 hours If the bike is in warranty take it back to the garage and have a word. As it doesnt sound right in the slightest. However my CBR600RR had an issue similar to this but it had an alarm and that I imagine drained the battery over the course of a few days. Do you have any alarm or electrics running off the bike?