Fozzie

My best run was 64mpg My current running average on fuelly is 49.9mpg, you should keep track with that if you dont already! Sounds like his tyres are flat or something! Mine did drop right down to 33mpg however, though it was thrashed full throttle for most of that time. I also had a 2008 RR, which would get 57mpg on the motorway as an average, if I did 70mph religiously I got just above 60mpg. Then the Kawasaki ER6F I had did 77mpg

What MPG do you get? I had an FY and now on an F6! I'm surprised if the carbs got better mpg, when we both let go of the throttle your bike draws fuel, mine stops all together and I got over 60mpg going up the motorway at over 80 on the clocks most of the way. I get the same miles out of both, the fuel light came on at 140 miles on the FY and the reserve gauge comes on at about 140-150 miles on the FI.

More power!!! No seriously, sometimes having more pays off as you need to use less effort to hold speed! But my answer here is as if you are keeping this bike for a few years or more as your pride and joy The key here is modification, if you have a few quid to spend then I can help here, you want to do the little things like change the air filter, put in iridium spark plugs, a new gel battery, balance the carbs and do the valve clearances. Then we start to lighten, if you don't take pillions take the rear pegs and hangers off if you can, get a lighter exhaust system that also boosts power somewhat and keep the carbs jetted correctly to boot. That usually knocks a few kg's off straight away. If you have big sticking out mirrors and fat pig bars replace for a renthal ally bar and bar end mirrors, that will shave some weight off and give you a better feel for the bike in most cases. See that tail light, does it use bulbs? Replace and fit with LED's and at the front if you have a little side light, replace that with a T10 connection LED. That way you draw over an amp less from the battery so the bikes alternator doesnt have to work as hard, you remove as much load as you can off that and you will get the bike going more freely. Also replace the indicators for LED versions and fit an appropriate relay. Dont change the gearing, the bike was designed for that gearing, at best change for renthal sprockets and X-ring chain kit. Lighter than standard but stronger. You probably think this is a lot of hassle but trust me most of it is dead easy. You could probably do all that for a few hundred quid and have a bike that was uniquely yours.

Hang on a minute The RS3 uses the YZF-R125 engine. The RS2 uses the TTR 125 engine, air cooled block and you can tell as it uses a supermoto style exhaust silencer. Do searches on Yamaha TTR 125 upgrades as you will find big bore kits and other components to give the bike a bit more umph.

Have you been riding the front brake at all? So basically smoothly hold a little front brake on when coming to a stop frequently. If so you've glazed it and the disc will be too smooth to get any grip on the pad. Leave the reservoir cap off and pull the lever in as far as it will go and leave it overnight with it cable tied that way. You will likely have a bit of air trapped in the system as well. I did that recently and it firmed my brake right up. If the lever has that much travel and is spongy it sounds typical of air being trapped in there and bleeding doesnt always get it out. Try one more time, this time, pump out the piston and give it a clean and then push it back in as far as it will go in case air is trapped behind there and cant get free. Then leave the reservoir cap off and cable tie the lever back to let any air escape over night. Then come back in the morning and try again. If it still spongy try grabbing a handful of brake down the road a good few times, sharp sudden bursts of hard braking to try and roughen up the disc. If it gets better from that then you know its the disc at that point. Or just take it back to the shop

If all else fails it's a CG in a different frock and the wiring loom will fit from one of those If theres too many damaged electrics just change out the whole lot.

In a word... No It depends, if you like pulling bikes to bits and replacing engine parts boy oh boy is this the bike from heaven as it was for me! But if you need a reliable bike that is fun and fairly fast you want either Aprilia RS4 125 (new 4-stroke variant, light and great fun) KTM Duke 125 (The stunt version with the better exhaust as it is agile and fast) Both deliver above 80mpg. The RS is below 60mpg

Changing gear being easier is common with tightening an overly slack chain or changing the oil after a lot of miles put on it without change. This is because oil can build up deposits, it breaks down through too much use and as a result it changes slightly. The bike is designed to run on nice newish oil, not old broken down oil. It has to lubricate the clutch the transmission and the top end in a motorbike unlike some cars. This is why new oil gives an easier change though as its essentially what was meant for the bike in terms of its design and in its new state it isnt broken down so has more qualities to allow gears to slip in and out better. If you leave the oil unchanged for long enough the deposits eventually screw up the transmission. I knew a bike that wouldnt go any higher than 3rd. Flushed out the old oil and a lot of crap apparently came out. Worked like new after that Hope that helps

I had two of these so thought I'd write a review about both as they did differ wildly even with most of the same mechanical components! http://www.bikez.com/pictures/aprilia/2000/433_0_1_2_rs%20125_Image%20by%20Aprilia.%20Published%20with%20permission..jpg http://www.raptorsandrockets.com/images/Aprilia/2006_Aprilia_RS125_last-006.jpg 2000 Aprilia RS125 I was the 5th owner, it had 26,000 on the clock and I bought it for just a couple of hundred pounds. It had just had a rebuild and was good to go, It was a good first 125 but it threw me right in at the deep end as it was way faster than any 50-125 I'd been on. The powerband was smooth and very fun to 12,000rpm where it ran out of puff with my setup. As this was the pre-2003 model it didnt come with all of the restrictions the newer ones had that held them back. As a result it was always very eager from 3000rpm, where it would hit a small band at 6000rpm before choking at 8000rpm, but get it past here it would really go and shoot to 12,000rpm. The brakes were good and had lots of feel, the suspension was typical Aprilia, very good but also quite twitchy. This said you could get the thing round tight corners very quickly once you built up the confidence to treat that twitchyness on the road as good grip as it followed and gave great feedback. Just the only issue with that is as a first 125 you have nothing to compare to so you don't know if it feels right or not! The bikes bigger, more bubbly bodywork was a good bonus for weather deflection but you didnt want to ride this for long in the rain anyway as the chances of conking out increased dramatically! It also gave the feel of a bigger bike so your road presence was greater. 2008 Aprilia RS125 This was brand new for less than £3000 in 2008! Bargain little bike and as a result many can be picked up cheaper than you expect off ebay etc. I got this one after the first one wrote itself off seizing and spitting me off before flying off up a verge into a low wall. That was a fun day! This one I got as it came with added reliability supposedly. But it also came with those awful restrictions in the CDI, the exhaust and no power valve. Within a month the power valve and CDI were sorted so the bike had a smoother powerband but it still choked as having a CAT in the exhaust wrecked it. So an arrow exhaust was put on and the carb rejetted to boot but it still ran very lean. The extra reliability only remains the case if you leave it fully restricted. Derestricted it would leave the exhaust glowing if you looked down the silencer. But what finished it wasnt that but the oil, the oil it was fed wasnt up to scratch despite it being the good stuff. It seized on a ride after just 1000 miles as the oil it was being fed was much too thin though this was seen as the main factor so when it went to high revs with an open throttle and then let go it starved and seized. It got fixed and a standard exhaust put on without a CAT on it. This lowered power but increased smoothness, however it would easily do rideouts with 33BHP bikes even if they were restricted 600's as they had roughly the same top speed and acceleration in the first few gears. Would I have one again? Yes Which one? Either as both had their strong points Are they worth the money? Reasonably priced but they hold their value very well Is it good as a commuter? Nope, but it didn't stop me using it as such Is it economical? 700 miles to a tank of £15 oil and 60mpg as an average, below the 100+mpg of other 125s so no. Easy to service? A bit fiddly but simple as a bag of chips It had sharper handling and better brakes as well as feeling even lighter than the old shape. It did feel a bit more tinny but that may have just been down to the fact the bike was lighter so the jittery feeling got transmitted as such.

The naked is better to me, the full faired looks good but I still dont see why it hasnt got the Fazers 90+BHP The buzzy nature refers to how much it needs revving, if its your first big bike then you wont notice in the slightest as anything with 600cc will feel great. I think it was because I have had an CBR600RR8, an ER6F, an SV650 and now a CBR600F6. It ranks bottom of those to me as the ER felt better all round, the SV was sportier and had the V-twin sound and the CBR's are just epicly smooth and extra powerful. But to draw comparison the Divvy does just over 7000rpm on the motorway at 70mph. The ER6F and my CBR600F both do 5000-5250. With the same redline as the ER you can see why I liked the ER more, as it had more acceleration and speed as well as comfort at motorway speeds. Also ive seen ER's keep up and overtake R6's on track, bikes are only as fast as their riders true. So now imagine that rider you saw keeping up with the sports bikes riding a Ninja. Would the Divvy keep up then? Im getting another ER6F soon I think, if you get a divvy ride it for a while and then if your not too far away or im nearby we'll swap and compare then, think we'd get a clearer idea of the bikes and our perspectives then

Unfortunately i don't have the tools with me to remove the spark plug, so it's either AA, or ride it back.. So, is riding it on a single cylinder going to flood petrol into places where it shouldn't? - because i've got everything i need to check it out and fix it, including new spark plugs, at home. But i'm not at home! Id just get it recovered home and get a nice warm van to take you there instead. Unless the rings on the piston have gone on the cylinder that dropped I wouldnt worry as the fuel will just get kicked out in with the exhaust. In my bike i get pops and rumbles as it slightly over fuels so it should do the same with yours. Obv if it shed itself of the piston rings then petrol will get down into the engine and contaminate the oil. But like I said earlier you would really know about it if that happened

Take the plug out on the non-firing cylinder and have a look, tell us what you see If anything disastrous had happened you would damn well know about it

So its better but not solved? Well at 60mph plus my bikes bars will weave gently but thats little contusions in the road making it sway ever so slightly. It doesnt change direction and it seems perfectly normal. Or the head bearings are a bit funny.

£160 will buy you a Fuel carbon wrapped exhaust with a link pipe, I'd suggest doing that rather than messing around with the existing system

My W reg CBR600F and my 2007 one both have gone through cam chain tensioners! It is usually a rapid ticking/rattle at 5000-6000rpm, most distinctly heard when you let the throttle go and the bikes revs drop gradually. You can get it when you rev up the range too. Though the 2007 one had it when it was at 3000rpm, ive since done 4000 miles and theres a rapid ticking again at 5000rpm. It does not make the bike unrideable in any sense of the word Some of them develop the ticking and thats it. It never gets worse and they keep on going with it like that. The tick you are hearing is just the cam chain having a little too much slack, it doesnt damage it and its no where near enough to jump a tooth on the sprocket. Though if it fails which they can it becomes a horrible rattle across a large amount of the rev range. If its a tick or a slight rattle I wouldnt worry too much! Keep going and when it gets worse and starts to progressively get bad then change it Also its a pig but do it yourself, lift the tank, take off the airbox and move the throttle bodies out of the way. Takes a few hours but it saves you £70.

Yeah, I had one on my last CBR600F a few years ago, this unit is smoked but the LED's are very bright so you see it fine during the day as well I like having the normal indicators to go with it as well. It may be a bit of a light show at the back of my bike but it is only going to make it harder for someone to claim they didnt see me indicate if they rear end me

Converting the LED's on this was easy as hell! What you need is desired LED indicators with bullet connections and then some bullet connector to honda connector leads so you can plug them right in. Take the top cowl off and replace them and then put it back together, but with the top cowl off you can also swap out the relay for an LED relay. It's easier as you can replace all 4 indicators with LED ones and not have to faff around with resistors. I got a relay for £7 and it's still working now. My bike is taking on more of a transformation, I've just fitted auxillary brake lights using one of the holes left by the indicator. They are the bullet lights from bike vis and they only come on when I brake. Very useful. the exact position is either side of the top of the reg plate below the tail light. The LED's stems are long enough they nestle in next to the stems. I will upload a picture at some point The tail light also has built in indicators im going to wire in so I have the tail light and an LED indicator flashing away when I want to turn. Just for extra visability so you damn well know when I want to turn or brake All perfectly legal too!

I just use Holts chain lube and wipe the chain once with an old rag before riding so the O rings get lubed and the stuff on the outer parts of the chain doesn't get thrown on my wheel Works a treat, Ive used Muc off dry lube and castrol racing lube and Holts has been the best so far for me I cba to use engine oil, its just easier to spray some holts stuff on and then wipe the chain for me! Then again I use my bike quite a lot throughout the week, sometimes everyday so I dont have time to give it a proper going over with engine oils etc.

Levers, I got blue with black adjusters but I suggest ordering the short ones if you get them http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Clutch-Brake- ... 4150d403c3 The indicators I have on the front http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-x-LED-Turn- ... 415a6af174 They dont make the rear ones anymore but they are called Motrax flames. I also fitted this http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HONDA-CBR-600 ... 3a6fdeaf84 The tail light I love to pieces, it has built in indicators I'm going to hook up soon but the smoked effect looks really good on my bike as when the bike is off it blends with the body work and is a lot brighter than the stock unit.

There are some great levers on ebay for this bike For £23 with delivery I got racing levers in anodised blue with black detail for my CBR. They work absolutely fine and look much better than standard. I have replaced the levers and indicators, did an LED indicator conversion, and Id strongly suggest you do the same as the little bits really do alter the look of the bike quite a bit

125's are quite susceptible to this, I've seen it happen to a DR125 and a Varadero 125. Tightened the chain up nice and tight and it worked like a dream again

I had one of these, had plenty of problems with it If its clicking on the starter you have a duff battery and should replace it. Are you starting it with the choke on? It always needed a bit even in summer otherwise it would die after a few seconds. Explain how it rides more clearly? Does it idle then pull away fine and bog down or does it do it when given even a bit too much throttle?

You should have a bowl drain point which can have a tube coming off it, should have a fuel supply and an overflow which lets extra fuel drip out of it. The problem sounds like the fuelling is incorrect. Has the bike been stood as it sounds like a carb problem to me. Do the easy stuff like making sure there is sufficient fuel pressure getting to the carbs, and that there are no blockages in the pipe and filters are all clear and work in. Get to the carbs and clean them out and make sure none of the jets are blocked up, reset them to a factory setting then balance them. Thats covered most of the fuelling so if you still have problems after that it gets a bit more tricky

If fuel wasnt coming out then your fuel tank needs switching to reserve Flick it and wait a minute then try. If it started and now doesnt at all it sounds like it was running dry. I'd fill the tank a bit as a precaution to check. If not you can always siphon it back out.

Ahh ok, will try to fix and see what happens from it then It only gains 1mph or so at the same throttle just when you pull the clutch you expect the bike to slow so when i felt it actually speed up even though just 1mph it was very unexpected. Good to know it isnt my clutch that is fried as ive about had it with this bike... Just keeps on going but has all sorts of bits breaking on it