Fozzie

Leave it on without using the bike for 4-6 months solid and then last a week

I use a one way valve, hold a tube connected to it tight around the bleed nipple and fasten it on tight. I then undo the nipple and pump away as the one way valve stops it being able to draw air back in. I go back to the open, pump and hold, close, let go and repeat when I get close to the end. Just to be safe But otherwise do what is said here I replaced clutch fluid and front and back brake fluid inside 30 minutes with my technique and the bike works as it should with nice firm brakes and a healthy hydraulic clutch

Firstly a mis-alligned wheel doesnt wobble I dont think, it makes you track to the side of the road when you let go of the bars and ive been on a bike where it was almost as far out as it could get Sounds like you didnt tighten it back up properly. You need to really tighten it, its very hard to overtighten it so put some welly into it. Also the top of the fuse box should have a layout of whats inside. If its different set it to the way it should be and see what happens. If a fuse that was too small has melted chance is it was small enough that even when blown there was an arch that destroyed the whole thing Seen that happen only once

I can vouch for X-ring DID golds being the best... Think of it this way, if you get the right chain it will go longer than others regardless of how well you look after it. So you have to compare how much mileage you get out of a standard vs the X-ring golds. I found the X-ring gold brilliant and looks good too

Ah theres the difference, mine was an 04 and it had some pitting before I started, but the salt on the road hitting it seemed to continually damage it to my annoyance. I kept on washing it down and protecting it but that only stops the corrosion spreading. It's by no means bad, but it just looks as though its pitted from where the paint has been chipped off through road use. My point is without this level of care the bike will corrode quicker Or just dont use it in winter and avoid it all together

Suzuki's budget range like the SV650 and Bandit will rust like buggers in winter. I'd know having had an SV before, it suffered bad pitting on the forks and water pump cover! The Honda CBR600RR I had was absolutely bullet proof except from some bolts and mesh on the front. If you have the cash, ride it through winter and do a big service in spring and replenish corroded parts. Mines due a Titanium bolt upgrade in spring, a re-paint of the engine casings and replacement of the front and rear pegs etc. They always get it being aluminium. So some anodized parts will be coming in to replace them as they seem to do well at surviving.

I fitted a new powerbronze screen, anodized blue race levers, indicators front and back with the relay and LED tail light for £120 Buy some tools and do it yourself, it isnt hard, you wont get it wrong easily and its very self explanatory

Firstly if you keep it outdoors a Bandit will naturally become one with its surroundings... 5 months will see it become a pile of rust, and though thats a exageration it will likely rust like hell. You need to store it in a garage and keep it dry, protect it with ACF-50, easy enough to buy from ebay. Then go and hook it up to an optimate to keep the battery charged but I have known an optimate to eventually dry out a battery so dont leave it on permanently. After a month or two the bike will need to be started ideally. I've been told in this instance to switch it on and let it heat up to the point the radiator has to come on. It means the bike goes through a full heat cycle and burns off any condensation. You want to do this as little as possible but it does help keep the motor healthier than it would be just leaving it for 5 months.

My son and I both have CBR400s and they absolutely refuse to start (or fire) if the battery is low. Bump start FTW - although that's not such an easy option with a 600 The 600 has a very over square engine setup, you'd be amazed at how easily you can bump start one. The 2008 CBR600RR I had bump started in the space of about 6 feet. Glad its sorted, a regular fault is the fuel pump packing in but I dont think models before the F3 had them but if it does keep an eye on it. And clean it every now and again.

When they did the tyre change on my CBR they screwed the alignment, chewed the paint off the rim a bit and then said it was like that when it came in 27mm spanner on ebay for £6 made by Silverline. Tools are cheap as sin mate. Ebay it! Spend £50 and you'll have all the tools you should need for doing all the general servicing needs

But would you then say its fair to restrict others who are percieved to be a greater risk and inexperienced? I went no in the end too but on this basis: I want the freedom, I see the restriction as crap. 33BHP is just a glorified 125, having ridden a 250 with that it gave that impression. So I have to ask then why does doing the same test though on a smaller bike qualify kids today to ride something so weak? Especially when people claim riding a big bike is easier the DAS is then surely the easier of the two tests? Idiots who pass and are young will still go out and get any bike they please and not restrict. I've seen it many times and then many get away with it. I dont see them being the main statistic for new riders so why restrict them all?

How would you restrict boats though? Propellor size? I would have thought talking about restrictions to do with driving licenses used on the road and not the sea, what I implied would be clear as water

Not a bad idea, 100BHP would keep them from going higher than a 600cc supersports for a year or so... Its very yes and no, but statistically the average age of a rider killed last year was 35. I need to see if this is the trend this year as one of the speculative theories was that it was born again riders hopping on machines too big for them and getting themselves killed. So the restriction would have its merits though some will disagree wholeheartedly due to the restrictions on their freedom. Not quite sure on Ridges comments as by that logic all restricted people will vote yes and all DAS people will vote no... I wouldnt say its the young ones with a chip on the shoulder. I personally believe if you impose restrictions it should be to every one, and that includes cars etc. Put everyone in the same boat or not at all.

I didnt know you were restricted!? How long until that ends then? With the fazer if the power outputs are the same and the carbs, airbox and exhaust system are the same then we could probably make an educated guess that the bike breathes and runs the same way as a thundercat so it should be safe to fit a kit from one on it. But double check! If not and the kit is going cheap, buy it and try it. It cant hurt right?

Just veering off topic, I think you've been a bad influence on my dad! (also called Fozzie) Just got sent a link to a Honda CB750 for pennies and he's thinking of getting it as a cafe racer project. Have you two been talking? Ive told him its definately a good idea. However how long he would survive the wrath of my mother is an unknown.

The water proof trousers you wear over your gear Throttled suggested work excellently I can also suggest SIDI vertigo boots! Not a single leak!

I had the Hannspree limited edition version and got that with 7000 miles on the clock and £5000. So about the same value and same year! I wish mine never got nicked... Id still have it now and im aiming to be back on one soon Good review

I checked up with my old SV who I sold to a friend... It's almost got 40k on the clock and has consumed 1 litre of oil in the last 3000 miles or so. Maybe the rings arent that great, maybe the oil is too thin who knows I read recently about a bike that switched to a thinner fully synthetic oil and it started sipping it after never having done previously. Keep riding it, see what happens?

Bleed kit with one way valve... Open the bleed valve and pump away and refil the reservoir as you go Do it until you have bled out clear, new and bubble free fluid and then one more top up of the reservoir and you are there. What condition is the master cylinder in? I like the rebuild these with rebuild kits from time to time. If it's not working very well then you won't have much pressure in the line. How old are the lines as they should be replaced when needed or every 4 years? But if you do an overhaul do everything so you know its reset back to its absolute best. So master cylinder rebuild kit, new braided lines, strip and clean the calipers, new seals and reassemble with only fluid left to bleed through

Was happy that all that was wrong with Bonnie's bike was the loose connection. Better to be something silly like that than something complicated! The terminal didnt seem loose at all when I pushed it btw, but with the ignition on 1mm of movement was all it took! It was a shame we couldnt get TNT's MV Agusta to the meet Was good to see everyone! I look forward to the start of season meet

Did 600 miles this weekend... Now thats a big fuel bill But would I do it all again next weekend? Yeeeep!

If BBC weather is to be believed we have rain on the day, but everytime it updates the rain on the saturday weakens and on sunday its barely moved on so I think its quite sketchy at this time... Probably be cloudy, patchy rain but nothing severe and the temperatures are mild so can't complain Im on a Honda it wont rust

Already liking this thread, keep it up.

Ah I see, boring road now then? (im only messing) I will meet up with Jin and if you are heading down and meeting her on route then I will see you then Sorted, weather looks like it could go either way atm. But not bad enough to put me off.

Room for moi? I havent got alot to do this weekend and im trying to get out of something so this is more than a perfect excuse. If Jin is going I will head up to Birmingham the night before and ride over with her Good thing this isnt december and we arent on the cat and fiddle... Otherwise id be screwed