bonio

*Packs more green spray paint*

Is there room for a sad old fart on a nongreen bike?

It's a CG. Park up next to something new(er) and shiny(er). Use a chain and a lock if you must. It will still be there when you come back.

It sounds like you'd prefer to the DAS than carry on on a 125, but you're not sure how you'll take to it. If that's the case, then I'd say to go and do the DAS; it's the quickest way to riding a bigger bike, and it's specifically aimed at people who don't know how to ride. I reckon doing 1 day a week is a great way to do a DAS. I'd wish I'd done mine like that rather than the whole thing in a week; I found there was a lot to taken in and by the end of the week I was pretty tired and I wasn't learning as much as at the beginning. If you can find a place where you can meet the instructors and sit on a bike before you sign up like Hoggs said that would be fantastic. I was lucky with my instructor and we got on fine, but occasionally things don't go so well for people.

Not taken the bike, but I clearly remember driving in Palermo. It was something like modern ballet - highly intricate close-weaved choreography directed at an inexorable exploration of unexpected and novel moves - all done in cars.

Ear plugs are a must if you ride a lot and you want to protect your hearing.

A decent headset will be loud enough to hear the music with earplugs in.

had an interesting chat with a few ladies a few weekends ago when out on the night.

Igloo. This doesn't count.

Yup: insurance for the stuff you can't afford to cover: house, contents, travel (repatriating a body is expensive), or where you have to (car, bike). Everything else is a plain, no thank you.

About the cost... The DAS+CBT+Theory test should come in at under a grand. Prices depend on where you live, and on how many retakes you're going to need! . If you budget a grand, I'd have thought that give you a bit to spare in case you fail something at some point and have to do the test again.

As for a bike, you can pick up older bikes that are still plenty fast enough and in reasonable nick for another grand or so. I'd have thought that anything much under 1000 will probably have something that will need sorting out. You can pay more but there's no need otfor your first bike. You will want to change it within a couple of years anyway.

You'll also need some gear. Apart from the helmet, you can pick up good stuff second hand on ebay and be kitted out easily for £150 + whatever you want to pay for a new lid.

Deso and littlecat are right. 6th is meant for at motorway speeds. I'd have thought 3rd / 4th for 30 mph is about right for the ER6.

All the best, rob!

Really nice bike

Oh really?

I stand corrected.

Again

Well done

You won't get even a minor for stopping briefly at a Give Way. If I were taking my test again, I'd probably stop at each Give Way, as it's harder to make a mistake that way.

Here's for how I generally try to stop at a junction:

Use the brake, with the clutch in.

As you approach the junction, downshift gently through the gears, with the clutch still in.

Downshift to 1st just as you come to a stop.

Ooh. Then it looks as if I was wrong.

I completely agree that the German and Irish approach to motorbike is more desirable than ours. No argument on that. But there is something that I still don't get...

About the motorbike test, the EU directive says

6.2. Special manoeuvres to be tested with a bearing on road safety

6.2.3.

At least two manoeuvres to be executed at slow speed, including a slalom;

And the dictionary says

slalom

noun

any winding or zigzag course marked by obstacles or barriers, as one in which automobiles are tested for maneuverability or drivers for reaction time.

Given this, I honestly don't understand how Germany and Ireland are thought to achieve this particular result in their version of the test.

To be fair, I think the problem is with probably shared more evenly between the government and the EU.

For example, the EU driving directive stipulates testing at least two slow speed manoeuvres, including negotiating a slalom. The UK government said to themselves that they couldn't possibly test that on the open road, and so built a whole series of test centres, each with acres of smooth tarmac, all dedicated to testing according to the EU directive. The Irish government, by contrast, said to themselves that of course everyone must end up doing some kind of slalomy type manoeuvre when they're out on their test and as long they don't fall off, they must have done it pretty well. So the Irish motorcycle test is a single test, all of it is carried out on the road, and all you have to do is show you can control the bike at slow speed.

Which is right? Well, given no other information, it would be hard to see how on earth the Irish government's test meets the EU driving directive. But it sure does make a lot more sense out of it than the UK government's approach.

But the root of the problem lies with the EU, who preside over a system where it's possible to come with up with an interpretation of the directive that is so wide of the mark that was written down, and yet which is still considered to meet its standards.

And that's likely the government's intention. They don't want motorcyclists on the roads.

Spot on.

They're committed to getting road accident rates down. They have two policies I can see: reduce speed limits on twisty roads / roads with junctions, and make it harder to get on a motorcycle for the first time.

The cheapest way to get your licence is likely to be to pass the CBT, get a 125 and run around on it for a year or so. Add a few lessons in from time - I think you do better to have the lessons spaced out and give yourself time to practice so that you can go on to learn new stuff at the next lesson. Then you could choose whether to do the A2 test , or it might make more sense to do some lessons on a big bike (it has to be over 595cc) and and go for the full licence.

At least I *think* the rules allow you to do it this way.

Bit of along shot, but any chance of getting it to a garage for an expert opinion on the ABS light before you buy? If you know the seller, perhaps you could stick on your car insurance, leave £200 deposit, and take it round yourself?

Result!

How's the fit? I used to get helmets online, but I've gone off the idea now. I never as happy with the fit as when I choose one in a store.

Ouch.

Here are the signs I'd look for that say it's time to change chain and sprocket

• Chain links are binding together and can't be loosened by hand
  
• The chain has sections where its too loose or too tight and sections where its ok
  
• The chain needs tightening all the time
  
• The sprocket shows significant wear, especially if the wear is uneven on the drive and following side of the sprockets

I've probably missed some - any others anyone?