Bill_on_a_bike

How much they asking for it?

If it's got slides they might be getting stuck up as well, you should grease them lightly when you rebuild it which you say was recent. This happen to my SR 125 once, just jammed open at full throttle, all 10 horsepower!

Slow service. Ordered a guitar pick up last thursday, paid £6 for next day delivery. Still no sign this morning, so I phoned up and they say it's been dispatched this morning. I asked them why it had taken so long and they had no idea. They did quickly refund my postage costs though. shame on you GAK.co.uk

You got money to burn go ahead, surely cheaper/simpler to just do the whole lot now, then you know where you are.

I do hate this attitude that anyone who doesn't know is a moron. I'm not saying anyone here has displayed it but it does exist. If someone claims to be a bike mechanic then asks this stuff, fair enough, but no one knows 'til you ask, you're not born knowing it. The carb controlls the mixture of fuel and air in to the cylinders, it also vaporises the fuel so it combusts properly. Common belief would have you think fuel is dumped in to the cylinders like a water pistol but it's more like a very fine spray. The carb is also what your throttle control links to. Twisting the throttle allows more air and fuel to go in to the cylinders. That's the tip of the ice berg, how it does it and how it does it well in many situations is more complicated.

Disable the rev counter and get some decent ear plugs, then you won't know if it's screaming or not, apart from the ball shattering vibration. New air filter and jets sounds like it works well if done properly, but is very easy to get wrong. If you thrash the bike running lean you do stand to do some damage. Rear sprocket will work but as has been said I wouldn't bother you'll just struggle at the lights all day long. If you can reduce drag in anyway that'll help alot, make sure you're jacket is a tight fit, don't want it flapping around like a parachute. Get your head down a little further, keep your visor shut, knees in. Make sure you're chain is well maintained, a stiff rusty old chain will sap a bit of power, and make sure your tyres are the correct pressure.

You might have done the clutch in running it half out for so long, adjust it, ride it and see. You can get alan 1/4 inch to hexagonal bit adaptors, so you could put a breaker bar on an alan key bit.

Ok so you do have a clutch lever and you change gear yourself. How long have you been riding are you sure you're not just half stalling it as you pull away?

Certainly sounds like a fuelling issue. I assume this thing is a centrifugal clutch and you're not just half stalling it. Clean your air filter

Don't worry I've prepared a good list of swear words to project loudly across my neighborhood when I realise it's all bollocks. You don't reckon clutch bolt will be too sensitive to torque settings though?

Also, Should I soak new friction plates in oil over night? I heard you should but there seems to be confliting opinions on the internet.

Right, read the haynes manual, sounds fairly straight forward, my only concern is I don't have a torque wrench. The only botls I'm really worried about are the clutch retaining bolts themselves, the pulse generator rotor bolt and the case cover bolts themselves. How important is torque settings for these? Or is "tight" with maybe a foot long wrench enough? YES I know this is lazy/tight but I also know that the hayne manual gives torque settings for bloody everything.

Why do you think people get their licence?

As said a bit of choke won't hurt. The clunk I'm pretty sure is the piston having just enough energy left to complete half a compression stroke, then being pushed back down, running the engine backwards half a turn, I think this clunked the starter clutch or something, I remember it on my SR. Don't get it on multi cylinder bikes because there's normally another piston that'll sort it out.

Sounds good, probably will do springs while I'm at it, would rather not fork out for steels if I can help it.

Turns out, all that racing start table cloth non-sence wasnt so clever. Anyway, my clutch is well on its way out. Intermittent atm but definitely lacking acceleration and engine braking at times. What needds replacing? Friction plates? Steel plates? Springs? Cheers all

So how do you know it's too hot?

how can you tell the temperature does it have a gauge? air cooled engines arn't designed to run standing still idealy, they need the air flow through fins to keep them cool.

Yeah I've got pillion insurance and a decent helmet that fits her properly is a must. 1 piece leather suits are probably a bit overkilll, just looking for basic textile gear

Morning campers, quick Q. Basicly, me and a mate want to do a few short breaks away on the bike, round nice bits of england maybe ireland for a few days. Thing is she's all up for being pillion but she hasn't got any gear and us being students neither of us have much cash. I just wondered if there's anywhere you can hire gear from? Or might it be better to just buy it, use it for a few trips and selll it for as near as damn it what we paid for it?

why not use carbs from a Mk3 golf GTi?

What's the engine in it?

Has it come from a track bike would be on my mind, especially with a big lump like that. If it's had the nuts revved off it all its life it will be feeling sorry for itself. Suzuki do an SV 650 but with a 1000cc engine, it's called, the SV 1000, sure you can be arsed?

They might not fall apart from each other but they shouldn't be pressed together anymore, you shuold be able to seperate them with your fingers

Clutch springs gone, completely? Does the lever just flop about? no resistance in either direction?