Bill_on_a_bike

The filter removal tool should also be fine for refitting the new one. It's just some method of getting a decent grip on the filter, sometimes a nylon strap sometimes a length of chain. As for the torque wrench, I'm not sure, haynes manuals always list torque settings regardless of if it really matters, just to cover there arse if get it wrong. Anything with a gasket or seal, or that's going to be under pressure (eg cylinder head) should be torqued to correct settings really. I wouldn't want to say "it'll be fine", it never mattered on the SR but that had a different type of filter.

Running new tyres in atm on the GS, a simular bike to the CB, and I have been gentle when it's been wet, but it hasn't been scarily slippy and all over the place. And don't align your wheels using markers alone, get some string/ a plank and do it properly, see rennies thread on chain care.

Sorry, I'd like to come but i'm off sailing that week.

Cool cheers rennie i'll pick up a multimeter from my grans tomorrow. The bike uses a breakers ignition system, which I fear might be a topic for the mechanic of yesteryear. Having familurised myself with the basics of it, apparently they can get dirty which can cause this. If it comes to getting the engine cover off this thing for a look at them, any tips on what I should do/check?

Coil, 2 contacts, Multimeter across them, set on ohms of some order of magnitude?

What am I looking for? lose connections? Is there a way to test it? I thought you could put a multi meter across a coil in some way to get a reading, I guess you need a haynes or something to know what it should be.

Trying to get a mate of mine's Honda CG started, but can't get a spark at the spark plug. Tried two different sparks, one out of my old SR which I know to be working fine. I'm no expert on ignition systems and stuff, is there anything that's likely to have gone? It seems most things just need direct replacing if anything. Cheers for help guys Bill

It just stops the wheel nut coming undone. is the wheel nut castlated? http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/thumb/4/42/Castellated_Nut_(new).png/180px-Castellated_Nut_(new).png

Did someone once mention something about how many heat cycles a tyre has to go through? As opposed to just milage?

That looks great! do you use one? http://themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=5&t=21360 Dan's gone the whole hog with a video. Looks very simple and very effective.

So in short, don't gun it for atleast 100miles? Just got new tyres on the new bike so quite interested in this.

Hmmm - I'm just sketching some ideas out for something that would remain on the bike and keep the chain clean/lubed up. Bill - I agree with you about the touring - how do people who do it clean their chain though? Hundreds or thousands of miles with just lubrication and no cleaning would leave it a bit of a mess I would imagine. All you need to clean a chain is a toothe brush and some parrafin. But touring on a bike even with all the luggage you can fit on, you're bound to be tight on space once you've got clothes+tent+shoes ect. There's probably some kinda spary on solvent in a handy little bottle you can buy. Like I said, shaft dirve

Chain oiling is such a simple task, i see no reason to have a scottoiler day to day. However, if I was touring, doing big miles day in day out, i'd definately want some kind of automatic luberication, because you would get very bored of lubing a chain all day. To be honest, if I was touring, I'd want a shaft drive.

No pain, no gain.

Get the spark plug out, then plug it back in to the HT lead. hold the spark plug BY THE RUBBER OF THE HT LEAD then hold the nut of the plug against the engine casing. Hit the starter button and look for a good consistent bright blue/purple spark.

Spark plugs won't effect the noise the starter makes. Is the battery perhaps a bit tired? and it's just chugging over slower than usual?

http://www.dsn2006.org/catalog/pics/High_Pressure_Oil_Can.jpg Get yourself one of these and some engine oil. Apply oil with the chain moving, on the sides/plates/all nooks and crannies, then wipe off the excess with a rag. Best to do this just after a ride, and then to take it for a ride, to work the oil in to the chain.

6th gear is usually an overdrive gear (overdrive or overrun? I can't remember). It's only really to bring the revs down at the top end, it won't accelerate anymore. 75mph with the wind behind you sounds bang no for a 125, regardless of all it's pointy bits.

Don't know the bike, don't know if it applies, But you're not allowed to have any other lights on a daytime MOT. Guy across the road from me has an old DT175 and he's had to cover the headlamp in duct tape.

When the SR failed it's MOT in november, I was told by the MOT station that I still had a ticket up until the old one ran out. Don't take my word for it though. Frankie having read your posts, I'm suprised you ever bothered getting a dealer to do the work. I have no doubt you know how to yourself. I guess it's convinience, atleast you'll save a few doing the lines yourself. So far I've had to spend £250 on the GS, and that's to make it LESS powerful. Then it's tyres were nackerd, another £180. I haven't even ridden it yet! And I can't go to work because I've got exams all the time. So I know what you mean about costs building up almost uncontrollabley. all the best with it though mate, i'm sure she'll sail through when it's done.

They always say keep the chain off the floor as much as you can, makes it harder to get bolt cutters on it apparently. I think if someone's actively trying to steal your bike then you're going to have to secure it really firmly, and videoing the bike so that if they do get it you can help catch them. I think a good solid ground anchor, a steel loop in the ground with a good solid block of concrete on the other end, with a chain to the frame is about as secure as it can be.

it's up for sale if you want it ... £10,000. The bike is 1500cc with Nitrous Oxide and runs low 8's ...holy hell. £10,000 is steep for cheese though isn't it?

I take it that's you on the 'busa? Looks like a great day, weather was great. Hope you had fun.

Anything but neutral is engaged., just like when the gear stick is central in a car. I'm not sure why it's 1 down then 4 up, why they did it that way, but the vast majority of the time it is that way.

http://www.redialuk.co.uk/ Never used them, but these guys open your clock up and print a new facia for it. Like I say, never used them, but might be worth a ring.