Bill_on_a_bike

I don't know, i've haven't needed a new one yet. Go to your local tyre shop place that does bikes, and just say you want one with better grip.

That little box with 2 prongs is almost certainly the relay. It's what makes them flash and not just be "on". Mine went the other day, yamaha wanted £15 for a new one So i got on weemoto and found one for a fiver.

Have you checked your headstock and front end ect. They can be tempromental in falls. And yeah, if you're loosing grip on the back tyre, i'd get the best road tyre you can, lets face it, a 125 cruisers not gna be gaining my benefit from slicks.

Word from the yamaha dealer is that my cam chain's stretch slightly. Engine still runs ok, but it's not a problem i want to develope. I been reading through the old haynes manual and it seems to just replace the chain you need to. -remove inspection cap on head -remove chain tentioner -remove cylinder head -take chain off cam sprocket -fit new chain. It's getting the chain round the crank sproket i'm worried about, i can't think of a way to do it without stripping the whole engine down. Unless the cam chain has a breakable link, in which case i can attach the new chain to the old, pull the new one through the bottom end, then link the new own too itself. Books recons you can find TDC using markings on the generator rotor. I'm not very experienced at all this, but i don't wanna be the sucker paying yamaha oodles to do everything, so some pointers would be nice. It's an SR 125.

hey owain, owain of St Albans, nice to see someone else from round here. If i was gna buy a yappy two stroke 125 racer, it would be the NSR yes. But i'm not.

Timing can be checked (on most engines) by removing an inspection cap on the side of the cylinder head. Behind the cap, you have a disk with a notch on the edge of it. You buy this special light gun thing, which you link up to the spark plug (somehow, never done it). The light goes off everytime the spark fires. This acts as a strobe light. If the timing is correct, then the strobe should fire when the notch on the disk is in the exact same place everytime. This is a specific place, with a corresponding notch next to the disk. In low light, the notch appears to stay still. As engine revs increase, the notch appears to spread out. It'll tell you how much it should spread by in your haynes manual. If the engine won't start i guess just turn it over on the starter and make sure it's in the same place.

I think that extra clunk is the selector going through neutral and then in to first. You're going through 2 gear positions in one go. If you have to bang it down in to first from neutral, try rolling your bike backwards a few inches, this can take pressure off selectors and forks in the box and they can move easier. (I have this problem sometimes)

Put this in the pitstop section mate. But I have no idea what the problem is.

I had this with my SR i think. Try lubing up the throttle cable, make sure it's not sticking.

Anyone else think "R6" Just sounds ...........better somehow, than R1. Just saying R1 sounds all kinda highly strung and silly. R6 sounds like a powerhouse of torque and speed and rage lol. Never ridden either on my provisional obviously but, just the sound of the word.

My CBT was fine in the playground, but i put a kilo in my trousers out on the road i tell ya. I came home i sat there wondering if this bike lark was really for me. No one at any point on my CBT taught me how to change down gear. Even on the road, the guy in my ear was just saying "select the appropriate gear". Well i dno what the appropriate gear is, at that point, i'd ridden an SR 125 up and down a dirt track and a YBR round a playground. Select the appropriate gear........what chance did i have. Don't you just WISH you could do your CBT again though, now that you can do it all without even thinking.