Ingah

Try swopping to reserve tap or vice versa (has worked for me quite recently). And personally, i'd do it with the bike's battery also plugged in to the trickle charger (at least i have done, and will continue to unless anybody tells me a good reason i shouldn't), just be sure it's totally full of juice and being recharged etc. Literally giving it a good few merciless attempts can work. This is what i do/did when i've ran out of patience with the stupid machine. (Note: Don't hold the starter button in for ages, otherwise you can burn the motor out - i certainly wouldn't be wanting to hold it in for more than 5 seconds at once for fear of breaking it). Obviously a kick start would be the ideal way to try to start it. If you can bump start without dropping the machine, that's definitely worth a shot too. Otherwise i guess it's a case of checking with a multimeter/WD40ing all your safety switches (e.g. killswitch, clutch, sidestand etc), check its sparking etc. And if the fuel is old (as in 6 months plus i'd suggest), to replace that. It may be useful to know how long its been sat, as if it's ages your carbs could be gummed up. Your tank could also have water in it (lots of condensation/water on the bike would make this more likely) which certainly will make it difficult to start at best - possibly check the float bowl, or go to original keep-trying-it methods to see if that helps shift it Maybe then just worth checking the air box isn't totally filled with crap. There's a logical order to do it in, but there's no real harm in just trying a few things - if it's not been sat ages it's likely going to be something very simple.

Which chain did you buy in the end?

Good one bullet!

+1. Every 8K/year on the CB500.

A far better price than the Almax 2m solution (£175 - excluding delivery!) - they must've made it cheaper because last i checked the prices were very comparable. If i remember correctly this chain also guarantees to be hand bolt cropper proof?

That flies in the face of what i've heard elsewhere, but i suppose it could be down to a different engine design, or other people being outright wrong (maybe saying 'tight' when they mean 'loose') Assuming newish/mechanically ignorant riders notice and/or care about it! This does tally with what i've heard elsewhere. For example someone on the CB500 forums didn't have service have service history for their CB500, and they checked the clearancese (48K on the clocks apparently - its supposed to checked every 24K - but i bet it hadn't been done), and they were apparently way out of spec. Either way, my advice for not 'leaving' it still stands - if there's no proof it's been done, assume it hasn't!

I was under the impression way too tight valve clearances such as those that have never been touched in relatively well used engines (they usually tighten over time), would cause 2 metal components to whack into/against each other when they expand as they operate at working temperature, and this would wreck the engine. It's vague, but it makes sense in my head, and i'm sure someone with better knowledge of mechanical theory can be more precise, or point out where i'm going wrong.

To expand on this, don't leave it, it'll wreck the engine if the clearances get too far out (at least get them checked). Personally i think too many people take the view that it's expensive so they won't bother. Then eventually, bang goes the engine. It's cheaper to keep it maintained, than get a new engine when it fails.

Or pay for it to be inspected. Or even ask nicely and hope someone local responds to help give it a look for you (yes, we bikers do this stuff for each other from time to time). You can also tell a fair deal from just looking at the state of the bike (i.e. rusty heap, or immaculate - dinks all over it, or smooth as silk?). Check the guides section on this forum for additional tips (got a few decent guides on there), go look at a few machines and you'll get the feel (especially if they're all the same model). No obligation to buy the first one (indeed, foolhardy!) - most sellers will understand why you're not buying on the spot, and those that don't are probably trying to flog lemons anyway. Here's an idea, go look at as many as you can buy yourself, then when there's one (or preferrably two or three in case one is crap) you like, then pay for an inspection (ring some bike garages and ask if they'll come out to the bike(s) and give you a summary - some won't but many will - after all its cash in the till). Try to avoid the AA/RAC as if i remember correctly their inspection charges are FAR too expensive for a few miles of travel and a short inspection of a machine or 2. In light of the way i've been ripped off in the past, i rather would pay myself (well actually i can check through them myself now, but if i was still unable to check through them, i would pay).

I take it you're holding the front brake on. Are they smooth both down and up? Either way, it shouldn't click. Note: Never owned a YBR, do still own a CG though, and have checked the front forks of at least 5/6 different bikes.

Absolutely, unfortunately i seem to have a habit of picking them: First CB500 i went to look at/buy the private seller lied through his teeth and had crashed it, may have had a damaged frame. Second CB500 (i bought) was as above, a nightmare bike. Went to look at a 250 the other day "mint" condition, and picked 10+ separate faults with it - at least 2/3 of which were dangerous enough that i wouldn't want to ride the bike away. Too many barefaced liars.

It's not the bike that's the problem per se. It's the likelihood of the previous 17 year old owners to have been twonks, skimping on the servicing, and ragging it at all times, and crashing it once and a while. You said yourself: Logically, there are few learners in the circumstances where they've got money to burn. And also remember, this is the same person that asked: So if he spends all his money on some unseen R125, and then the thing has a raft of inevitable problems caused by previous owners (that have also spent all their money on buying the bike leaving none to maintain/repair it), he's going to be off road, no bike to use, and get peed off, then stop biking and tell everyone how crap it is. If he spends £500-£1000 on a CG/YBR/equivalent, then at least he'll have the money to look after it and put it right, and besides which the liklihood of it being thrashed to death is lower. That's without thinking about the inevitable newbie drop, where those fancy fairings are wrecked (£££££), vs the commuter drop, when all you do is bang the footpeg straight again with a hammer! (£2 - for a hammer and a tub of elbow grease). My advice is consistent for newbies, it's always along the lines of "get what you can afford to crash/otherwise write off". If the engine goes pop, then you want to be in a situation where you can get yourself something else, which you can't if you've spent every penny on a bling bike. There's an awesome post on BCF (from the legend "teflon-mike") i can go dig up if anyone's particularly interested in the whys. He's right on the button with this stuff (and an ex-instructor too), and seems to have hours to explain the situation in great deal, as he has done! Personally, i've got an exam tomorrow, so that'll be all for now.

Only if you're happy to buy a lemon / money pit. I got my zx6r off ebay without first seeing it as it was too far and it is a great bike in better condition than I expected. If you looking for something cheap or some real bargain it may be risky but if you buying something you know is worth its price then you should be fine. If you have good pictures, proper description and you spend some time on the phone with seller you'll minimize the risk. And even if you check the bike up close you have never any guarantee it will not be a money pit EDIT I have also bought my 125 off ebay without seeing it and 2 cars before. 1 car was non-runner but it was stated in description there were engine issues Careful, lest you set me off talking, in great detail, about my CB500 (bought unseen from a dealer, over the phone, having asked all the right questions, and been lied to across the board). 2 years (at least 6 months+ of which has been spent unable to use my main transport due to repairs) and thousands of pounds of my money later (along with weeks of frustrating time pottering with it in my garage), i think i'm finally getting towards the end of the new-problem-every-fortnight. It was advertised as "Honda reliability, HPI Clear Free certificate provided, Runs and rides superbly, UK Bike, Very economical. Great commuter bike in good condition. As new Avon tyres". Nothing but problems, and even the advertised "as new" tyres: the front tyre lasted under 1K of my granny-style (scared of the power) riding before needing changing, and the rear had a slow puncture right from i got it up until i changed the tyre. I paid around the market rate for the bike.

Only if you're happy to buy a lemon / money pit.

Likely to be a terrible choice as a first bike if price and reliability are important in the slightest way to you. Commuters are the most sensible choice.

I can tell the OP with 100% certainly that under the current law, they can ride a bike of up to 125cc (i.e. a small bike) on a provisional licence, with a maximum power output of 11kW (approx 14.6BHP), if they have a valid CBT (and insurance and all that lot of course ) - CBT certificates only last 2 years then need renewing unless you've attained a full licence. Nothing else is required currently, unless you want to ride a bigger/more powerful bike than that (in which case, theory test, mod 1 practical test and mod 2 practical test must be passed, in that order). Either way, further training is always recommended due to the high risk of death and personal injury as an inexperienced rider. This is all subject to some changes over the next few years.

May be best to pop it near the sprocket on the lower (?) run of the chain so that damage is minimised (be careful with those fingers tho...). Maybe one of those £10 alarmed padlocks, so when you take it off the stand, it'll beep to warn you? (same reason i prefer alarmed disc locks) Might've been a useful tip for my CG125 (dual drums so can't use a disc lock), but its got a bloody full chain enclosure too - definitely not an easy bike to secure unless you want the faff of chaining it through the frame (pretty much the only physical security option for it!)

I wear the same all the time: Long-sleeve shirt, jeans, underwear. Don't use leather trousers though, i'll swop my jeans for the kevlar version or simply pop my textile trousers over my normal jeans. That said, i'm wary with my cheap Gear 7 leather jacket i use - it seems the dye runs off and stains clothes underneath a nice deep blue when it rains (should've probably taken it back, but felt sorry for the shop i buy from because i'm always taking items back, as nothing seems to work properly for me ever )

I don't believe they do. I suppose if you never clean or use any of that leather moisturiser on them it'll finish them off sooner (we're talking less years of usage though - you'll probably shred or damage them some other way before they wear out naturally), but i certainly wouldn't avoid going out in the rain in leathers if it's all i had for the rain (the main reason i wouldn't use leathers in the rain, is because the zips etc, especially in the cheaper ones i tend to use, aren't properly waterproof!)

Unfortunately not, although i do have a few links that still work from when i was searching for one myself (before the money dried up before i could get one): http://www.alphasales.co.uk/index2.html http://www.sealey.co.uk/PlPageBuilder.a ... etHomepage http://www.toolsbypost.com/category.php?id=658 http://www.google.co.uk/products?oe=UTF ... &scoring=p http://www.webbikeworld.com/motorcycle- ... el-chocks/ http://shop.ebay.co.uk/i.html?_nkw=ATV+ ... m270.l1313 Let me know what you end up with and how it goes, as i'll be interested in future.

I can suggest the addition of: Check the steering head bearings and wheel bearings too. Head bearings check: Pop the bike on its centre stand (assuming it has one - if it doesn't have one you need paddock stands or will just have to skip it). Get someone to put their weight down on the back, which will lift the front wheel slightly off the ground. Ensure that they keep their weight on it, otherwise it'll be very difficult to feel any play! Turn the wheel from side to side slowly (do it a few times to be sure) - if your head bearings are done then then you'll feel a small notch in the middle (most travelled bit) - almost like it's slipping into a comfty spot (in actuality it's a groove worn into place by constant rubbing). It could also feel notchy on the turn. If either of these are the case, they need attention (and are probably MOT fail, unless the MOT is hooky ) Obviously ideal/good is when it moves smoothly through the entire travel. This is up to a couple of hours labour, and up to £70 for a set of brand new official Honda head bearings (you can get cheaper ones elsewhere, but i don't know if they'll last as well or not). Not sure exactly how to describe the wheel bearings check in a way that's going to be easy for a newbie to do...

I've heard that hand guards (ideally them textile things you put your hands in), along with heated grips, works flawlessly. Personally, i'm young enough to find inner gloves "good enough".

I cannot second this enough. So much of a pain in the ass! Otherwise, get a Haynes manual for your bike, consider additional bike repair books (Haynes do a motorcycle maintainance repair book i've been wanting for ages), or better yet buy a bike like my particular CB500 that was old and well-used and try to use it as your only bike for more than your fair share of sudden, random, and stressful enforced learning in the years following your unlucky purchase NB: Not really, have a 2nd bike for the purposes of "learn by it going wrong" as when you need to get to work and it breaks suddenly - it's not worth the added blood pressure I haven't been in a position to learn from others, so it's been difficult to say the least. Stripping a nice simple 125 is good, as there shouldn't be too much in the way of complex fancy wizardry to confuse you. This website can be helpful, and is pretty comprehensive: http://www.dansmc.com/ Youtube videos can be extremely helpful when you're stuck on a common job. Tools-wise... Combination spanners, a good set. Chrome vandadium steel (if in doubt, always chrome vanadium steel). Lifetime guarantees are nice as when you inevitably break them you don't have to pay for a replacement if you haven't been using them inappropriately (and keep the receipt!!). Machine Mart (a la "Clarke Pro" tools) is going to be your most cost effective bet. A lot of people recommend Halfords Professional tools (also have a lifetime guarantee), but i notice they often tend to cost double! Also get a good socket set ("Good" as in a large likely useful/useable selection, not as in necessarily the way with the most pieces in it - which is the way places like Halfords like to market them) And a good set of screwdrivers (flat-bladed and philips head). Notice i say "good". With tools, it's often a case of buy cheap buy twice. But you'll have good ones for life. Other people can probably suggest more tools etc. I sort of accumulate tools as and when i inevitably need them.

I would still prefer to email Knoxx direct to see what kind of a response i get. I will also email the company i ordered the back protector from (Internet based company), to see what they have to say. I doubt i will get very far with the emails, and if anything i might get offered a replacement back protector, trouble is i wouldn't want a replacement, i'd prefer my money back so i can buy a different brand of back protector (probably forcefield - wish i'd gone with them in the first place now). I know (as it has already been said) that i could quite easily fix the problem myself and just get on with it, but it annoys me that a product that is quite expensive should just start to fall apart after 3 months of use! Especially something so important as a back protector!!! I thought Knoxx were suppose to be one of the leaders in their field today... apparently not (not in my opinion any more). I'd expect a refund, and be looking up the sale of goods act so i knew how i was (near as) legally entitled to one

+1. The amount these items are (over)priced at, i expect no less than perfection. Yeah, that is still kind of what i'm thinking, so may not do the thread lock thing just yet, as i'm considering writing a letter (or email) of complaint to Knoxx to see what kind of response i get. To me, it just seems like a bad design now and i'm probably going to replace it with a forcefield back protector. Funny how something like this can turn you away from a company you had a lot of respect for. I'm sure my letter of complaint won't get me anywhere, but it's worth a go, even if it is just to raise some awareness to Knoxx about the potential issue on this particular model back protector. Personally i'd take it back to the retailer under the sale of goods act (your contract for the goods is with the retailer, not the manufacturer). Goods must last for a reasonable length of time, and 3 months isn't reasonable for such a product. Under 6 months, the retailer has to prove that the fault wasn't inherent. After 6 months, you have to prove that it was. So get in before 6 months, and legally speaking they don't have a leg to stand on, not that it should ever get that far.