Ingah

I wasn't all that clear there, i've already done a few hundred juddery miles with my oiled air filter. It will cut straight out, even on the slightest application of throttle.

No it wasn't. But that was down to the jet needle having fell down into the carb. I might try cleaning it again regardless, but if it needs a dry filter to run there's a problem elsewhere anyway, because you're supposed to put a little oil on them to my understanding... And good, it looked like number 11 to me too Don't remember seeing that in the carb though, certainly nothing at that orientation that was adjustable... Guess i'll have to poke around. Not happy with the tickover either, it's noticeably slower. But it does work.

Most people who commute on bikes manage... ohh and ebay. "Boss, i won't be in the for the next 3-4 days whilst i wait for some part to turn up from eBay." "What's that boss, i'm fired?"

Sell the 3 bikes and buy one reliable one... And when someone runs over my one reliable bike? What then? As i won't have any spares to use! (as things are currently, if i'm honest... although things will turn out right once i have sorted these machines... i hope.)

Air filter i serviced very recently (re-usable). Also put a light smearing of oil onto it as i've read you're supposed to do (and was wondering if this was a bad idea in light of it not running great when it used to run fine years ago when the air filter never had any oil smeared on it). I'm not too sure on the idle screw setting... which number is that and i'll check it tomorrow: http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/hpl/i ... __1500.jpg Diaphragm is fine. Will do that tomorrow. There are no vacuum hoses in this carb as i am aware (petrol is gravity-fed from the tank)? http://www.hondaoriginalparts.com/hpl/i ... __1500.jpg

As an update i found it would run if i put the mixture setting to 1 and 3 quarter turns (the manufacturer's setting). But very badly, kangeroo'ing, juddery, bogging down on 1/4 - 3/4 throttle. But still, got me to work and back a good handful of times.. before giving up the ghost again: http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 8&p=694105

I'm beginning to hate bikes as far as commuter transport goes. Today's problem is that the CG125 took me about a mile and a half down the road, and then gave up the ghost. It'd been running like crap anyway, but at least it was getting me to work and back, in the dark (something that neither of my 500's are able to do at the moment as they're both sitting in the garage with their front ends hanging off... i'm in the middle of swapping them!) CG engine will start, the idle is noticeably slower, but the second you touch the throttle, bam, it stops running. Half choke and full choke prevent it from starting entirely. It's clearly a fuelling issue, i've had the carb off as recently as a few days before hand for cleaning/compressed-air-in-a-can in the hope i'd solve the running-like-crap-problem (and rode it over 20 miles, a couple of times, since, successfully). I can't fathom this though, my plan is to check the fuel tap bowl and the carb float bowl for rust, again. I'm expecting to find nothing. I suppose it's possible i've done something wrong in the carb, but i've had it apart a good number of times now so it's not like i don't know how to put it back together correctly... (and i'm not eager at the prospect of doing it again either, but i guess i have to, to check the float bowl). It's such a simple system that i simply cannot see why it's broken Previous thread on CG running like crap: http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... =5&t=40369 Yours sincerely (fed up), Ingah.

Definitely ball bearings then (At the time of buying them i was not aware that there were such things as "better" bearings... or cheaper ones!).

Right-o, thanks guys will do that. Not entirely sure which type, it has the OEM bearings in because when i bought them 3 years ago and got a mechanic to fit them for me, they were the official Honda ones (at the official Honda price )

It seems that swapping the headlamp and indicators from my older CB to my newer CB is a tad more involved than i thought (it seems to be the case that the whole front end must come over). So, having been forced to bring the steering stem over from the old too (oddly, the newer bike has a non-standard steering stem that has nowhere for the headlamp bracket to locate!), it seems that i have had to set up the steering head bearing adjustment again afresh. Haynes isn't massively helpful here as it refers repeatedly to "eliminating the freeplay". Quite which freeplay it's referring to is not explained, or clear. I've done it how i think, but the probability is that it's wrong, and it's not exactly a 2 minute job to adjust it, so i was wondering if anyone could give me some advice on what it means so that when i take it apart a 2nd time, i can do it right . I don't have the proper tool to set it to a certain torque, i'm setting it by hand. e.g. i tightened it so that it was difficult to tighten any further by hand (i took that to be the freeplay?), whilst noting that the steering remains light and easy to turn, with no apparent notchiness (that said, it doesn't have the handlebars back on yet...). I also figured that the steering stem should not be able to move up/down at all, so made sure it was tight enough that this is not possible (i.e. that pulling/pushing up and down doesn't cause it to move).

+1.

Check your engine mounts - around where the engine bars bolt to the engine.

Only if it's not true. That said, if it wouldn't look good in a tribuneral, it may be better to remove it now.

Why don't you tell us what you're offered, and then sign the agreement to say nothing Sorry, just because that sort of thing from companies just encourages me to wind them up more

They aren't legally allowed to "not pay" you for work you have done for them. Forced, free, overtime, is illegal. That said, i imagine they'll just deny you did the time if it comes down to it. Funnily enough, i had the same overtime crap levelled at me when i did a brief stint for a pub when i was 16 (not to that level though) Unsurprisingly, i didn't stay. Harrassment is a crime. Careful with the comments you make as they'll potentially mess up a tribuneral. Regarding legal advice, see Citizens Advice Bureau for help on whether it's worthwhile persuing them for constructive(?) dismissal. And here: http://www.direct.gov.uk/en/Employment/ ... G_10026696 Oh, and keep the texts, might prove very useful if you go down the tribuneral route.

I'd take it back to the shop.

Data Protection Act 1998. "Subject access request". Request a copy of all data in relation to the individual (i.e. you). That's all for now, am at work and aren't an expert on it.

Yeah, old CB was forever a non-running shed. Although new CB will be benefitting from it as i plan to fit much of the shiny newish parts to it. So i'd hope reliability is going to be high, especially when i've completed the first comprehensive service, and changed the chain (it's got a stiff-link that i haven't been able to completely unstiffen by working WD40 into it*). That said, based on past experiences, i'm wanting to buy another spare bike for when the inevitable happens * = yes i know you perhaps should not use WD40 on a chain, but this link needed sorting quickly, and i don't plan to continue to use this chain for long.

Yeah, tis a CB500R (1993-1995). Ironically enough, the only version of the CB500 actually MADE in Japan. Picked up another CB500 (2000 version) for £450, originally intending it to be for spares (see http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... =3&t=40509 ), but because i've finally run out of patience with the CB500R, i've decided to use IT as the donor instead (despite the newer one lacking mirrors, headlamp, pillion grab rail, fork oil, working fork seals...) Thus far i've nabbed the complete forks from the older model and the mirrors. New one works fine, currently running it on a daytime MOT and it could do with a good service and a few bits and bobs.

To clean chains with, advertised by M&P along with a rear paddock stand and 400ml of Motul chain cleaner for £29.99 (excl delivery i bet). http://www.mandp.co.uk/productinfo/9029 ... ial-Offers Anyone used the paddock stand / chain doc, any good?

So mixture screw was 1 turn out. After changing to 2 turns it seemed better, but not fixed. But at 2.5 turns it WAS ok for a couple of miles, and THEN stopped working! only way to complete my journey from that point was on FULL choke (running just as badly as it had with 1 turn out) otherwise it wouldn't run at all, which seemingly defeats my theory that it was running too lean as letting the screw out was richening the mixture to my knowledge. Really quite confused so might take the carb off again. But am working against the clock as its dark soon and i've work again in the morning lol.ng the screw out was richening the mixture to my knowledge. Really quite confused so might take the carb off again. But am working against the clock as its dark soon and i've work again in the morning lol.

Lol am so glad this is theoretical thats the opposite end of the argument to get rid of speed limits all together simple no limits no speeding now that works for me!! Coupled with a crackdown on dangerous driving, i might be inclined to agree.

Rubber? Needle fell through because the washer had been slightly malformed when i was messing with it and so didn't hold the needle tightly enough. Carbs were *properly* cleaned out a while back. And then petrol hasn't been left sitting in them for long since (definitely not long enough to varnish up). Brand new iridium spark plug hasn't solved it, so i guess mixture screw is next

+1. Combined with ebay not really caring. I've only ever heard of one person being prosecuted for it.

I think we forgot rock and roll (as alcohol is technically a drug, right? )