Skimblet

Yes mine is a 2011 ED Model. I have the haynes manual which is where I got the bit about the circuits only being complete when the ignition is on, it doesnt seem to give any more information around the ignition. As an aside trying to be a bit creative and work with what I have, would i be able to just connect the two that are connected when the ignition is on and the other two on a switch which I could then just flick after turning the key and before pressing the start button. I have also emailed the seller, A) to tell them the item is just blowing my fuses and B) requesting a refund, they appear to be in China so I do not hold out much hope of the latter, although they have responded saying they will come back to me tomorrow

Amazon, one of these https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01L1DYJYC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have the same colours as on the old barrel Red Brown Black Black/White On the current barrel, the Black, Brown, Black/White go into a connector, the Red is seperate - Black and black/white are one circuit and the Red and Brown are the other On the new barrel, the Black, Red and Brown go into a connector and the Black/White is seperate, the Black - Black/White are one circuit, the Red Bown are the other When connecting the new barrel to the bike, the Black/White ends up being connected to the Red if i just go with the current connectors (which is clearly incorrect). The circuit diagram for the bike shows that the two cirtcuits should be complete when the ignition is on. Thanks for your help and patience

checked all combinations, only 2 of the 4 have continuity when on and the other two only have continuity when off

But am i right in saying that if I am only getting continuity on one pair when ignition off that, that is an issue as the circuits on both sets should only be complete when the key is in the on position, and therefore regardless of how its wired to the bike its never going to do its job

new one tested Black and black/white have continuity when key is in the off position and the brown and red when the key is in the on position, as far as i know they should both be when in the on position

Ive not tested anything on the new one, its not yet on the bike I just connected the wires to try it and it said no by blowing the fuse

Continuity now checked properly, on both sets of cables (Black - Black/White and Red - Brown) both of which returned high numbers. (after market) Replacement ignition barrel arrived in the post, looked exactly the same apart from wires were a different colour, being an aftermarket one didnt really see this as an issue. Wired up new one to check before takeing old one off etc and it just blows fuses, a quick google seems that replacement ones like this are just all bollocks and not wired in the same way internally. As in when the key is in the on position it does not complete the circuit on all four cable but only on two and when in the off position it completes the circuit on the other two, or something like that, but end result is, it will never work with the bike, so thats going back. Is it possible to take an ignition switch apart and clean/refurbish it as im guessing the issue is the contacts inside being corroded

I wasn't touching the wires or probes at all, the probes were inserted into the part of the connector where the wires go in. I will have another crack at the continuity thing over the weekend, there is a diode symbol thing at the bottom like you say, will set it to that and see what it says. Unfortunately I am one of those people who should not be let loose on something like this

Ah so the Ohm setting is different? Ill have another crack over the weekend I'm guessing the resistance being that high is still possibly an issue though is it? Thanks for all your help

Sorry for the delay in answering, changed my provider from Sky to Plusnet and had to wait for connection,anyway ,yes from the connector back to the ignition barrel check the Black/White and Black for continuity and the Red and Brown for continuity, the key has to be in the "on" position in the barrel for continuity test to work I only checked the black and black/white wire, key was in the on position video of multimeter (i wiggled the keys around as well) https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KaMpc7HclHE

sorted (I think) black wire and black/white wire. now if I'm correct a reading of 60 or so on the multimeter means my issue is there right?

I'm stood looking at my wiring with multimeter in hand, where do i put the bits to check.continuity? (video i watched appears to have been of no help at all)

I have a wireless IP camera with two way sound and audible alarm, so if its set off it will alarm, record, send me a mail and I can then go into and hear/speak to the perpetrators. All for less than £40 although its currently set up to catch the nobhead who keeps letting his dog crap on my driveway

Welcome to the Forum I'm in the same boat as yourself, I have a YBR125 2011 that also starts when it feels like it, normally not the first attempt, nor second but with a bit of coercion it eventually kicks into life. What have you checked so far? with mine I have replaced/checked Air Filter plug and done an oil change, checked most of the cabling and am about to swap out the ignition barrel (once I have checked properly for continuity) Do you have a Haynes manual ? if not get one After you try starting and it says no, after the initial three quick flashes of the EM light, it will come on again (I'm guessing one long followed by nine short - Error Code 19)

Tried that, didn't seem to make any difference

I watched a video of someone doing it on an R6 which gave me a bit of an idea, I have a dremel which I can take to them if necessary Will check the continuity properly before I do it, I thought I had but I think I did it wrong (again I watched a video on how to do it after ordering the part )

I have a new barrel on the way so hoping this fixes it and that its not a complete ballache to do

this is where I get confused, by switch do you mean the button on the bars, or do you mean a switch within the barrel?

Gradually trying to whittle down what could be wrong with it. Have checked cabling and from what I can see it all looks ok Next step is to replace the ignition barrel in case it is the contacts in that, that is the issue, is this a big job or should it be pretty straightforward? is there anything in particular I should look out for? TIA

I'm not sure, maybe - the vibrations can move the keys. If you've got it stationary but engine running, try wiggling the key to see if it cuts out. Thanks will give that a try

Yes was right hand side, was very gentle drop, I still had hold of it! I don't think it has a kill switch I did check battery connections but will do this again just to make sure, as for all the other connections I shall work through them, I have the Haynes manual so hopefully this will help me with that Generally if I play with the plug cap it helps, so was going to replace that as well just in case

Sometimes it will start and then just cut out straight away, this morning it did that 5 or 6 times then started and I managed to ride to work, although it did cut out and then start again on the way, would the ignition barrel cause something like this?

Another Saturday sorted for me then, will I need to take the tank off to get to them?

Hi Everyone me again with more YBR issues, I am having issues starting, sometimes! I am getting an Error code of 19 which is as follows Fault code 19 - No signal from ignition to ecu My understanding is, is that this has nothing to do with the ignition as such but requires me to check some wires. Recently (after the issue started, which was after I dropped it gently) I have changed the spark plug and air filter (as well as chain sprockets and brake shoes) there is oil in the engine and fuel in the tank. sometimes it has an issue starting and sometimes it will cut out while riding and then start itself up and carry on Any help or pointing me in the right direction is much appreciated