Mississippi Bullfrog

That's an issue with the smaller Suzuki engine, you just need to identify the right bolt which is easy if you refer to the manual. If you get it wrong just put everything back the right way round. No harm done.

Breakfast at Tiffany's, definitely a film to be watched from behind the sofa.

I have something similar for my beekeeping suit. Pics I can't add a photo right now but if you Google beekeepers arm protection you'll see what they look like. They're not waterproof though. You can't work on hives in the rain.

Mine are gauntlets and the cuffs were strapped really tight but I still got soaked. I remember the old days they used to have arm pieces that went over the top of the gauntlets towards your elbow. I have something similar for my beekeeping suit. Never seen them in use for riding gear recently though.

A few weeks ago when it was very wet I decided to see what happened if I put my gloves over the sleeves on my textile jacket. I know the theory but with the gloves strapped really tight I didn't think as much water would get into them as everyone says. Well by end of the road I dabbed the brakes and my hands were instantly soaked. So I'll stick to sleeves over gloves in the wet.

As above, there seems to be a load of rubble just where the wobble starts. If there's play in the head bearings it won't help, but it looks like you clipped something that threw the bike off balance. It's very hard not to over correct when that happens.

I'm assuming they've stapled them back in the right places: when the surgeon comes in 20 minutes before the op and says "Just remind me which side we're doing" and then draws a big arrow on you in biro, it does make you wonder... There is a reason they do that. When you’re lying there in pre-op you’re a bit prone to agree with whatever a doctor says to you, ie you don’t always listen as carefully as you would usually do. So people have been known to agree with whatever a surgeon says, even if they’ve got it wrong. By asking you to tell them what you think they’re meant to be doing it avoids leading questions. It scared the hell out of me when the guy asked me what I’d come in for. He must have seen the look on my face as he explained why they do it that way.

Sounds good. Bikes can have interesting effects on people. Our bishop commented on me rolling up to events in bike gear. I said to him, you roll up at a secondary school wearing a dog collar and you've got a hostile audience. You roll up wearing a dog collar and leathers and you've got an intrigued audience. At least you'll get a hearing. Hope the health issues improve.

https://www.gov.uk/motorcycle-cbt It depends if you hold any kind of previous licence and when you passed that. But for most people you need to have completed CBT before riding unaccompanied. It's not something you pass or fail - it's just something you need to complete and then you have the certificate for 2 years.

I wouldn't bother contacting Mr 57, I'd go straight to SETI.

The thing with oil is that the detergent properties wear out long before the ability to lubricate. I change my car oil every 5k and bike every 2k. My last car had new timing chains fitted at 125k as routine maintenance, the interior of the engine was crystal clean. By contrast I've worked on the same engines which have had 10k oil changes and suffered timing chain failure at under 40k due to blocked oil feeds. A lot depends on the kind of journeys you do whether the oil evaporates off combustion byproducts. But I've never regretted doing more frequent changes.

Old trick re. water in petrol - add some meths to the tank. Water can't mix with petrol but it will mix with meths. Then the resulting meths/water emulsion will mix with petrol. But that water looks rusty which means you'll have corrosion inside the tank. That needs sorting or the tank will rust through and the continuing corrosion will cause blockages in the fuel system. Just don't do what a mate of mine did. He filled the tank with fuel resistance epoxy, swilled it all round, then drained the excess out of the filler cap. Left it all to set and re-assembled the tank. But the bike wouldn't start. We left him for weeks until he figured out why. He'd forgotten to drill through the epoxy where the fuel outlet fitted so no fuel was getting out.

I thought Ed Sheeran was a footballer? Not that I'm really into football. He can't be a musician because they stopped making music when the 70's came to an end.

Don't those have a vacuum operated fuel valve? If it's the vacuum pipe that's come off that would explain the lack of fuel flow which would cause it to cut out.

If the battery has been allowed to drop charge too much it may have killed it. What you're describing sounds like a weak spark, it can't burn the richer fuel mix needed when you're pulling off from a standing start. I'd try giving the battery a full charge or possibly invest in a replacement. A really dead battery can mean you're not getting enough juice through the ignition system even though the engine will idle and rev ok with no load.

Sounds like you've undone the gear shift detent retaining bolt. What drops out looks a bit like a top hat with a curved top bit plus a spring. You need to make sure it goes back the right way or finding neutral can be a pain. Same as the Van Van - ">

That sounds like a bike that hasn’t run for a while starting on a rich mix, then fouling the plug. Take the plug out, clean it and then try again. Give it some throttle to keep it going until there’s a bit of heat into the engine.

Laid up means not being used for a while. Maintenance of spark plugs usually means ensuring the electrode gap is correct, the plug is clean and there is no signs of cracks on the insulation material. Older bikes have manual fuel taps to control the fuel flow and/or switch between main supply and the reserve. Newer bikes tend to have a vacuum controlled fuel supply so no manual tap. Unleaded fuel tends to deteriorate more quickly than the older leaded petrol but I've only ever once had something not fire due to old fuel and that was several years old. If you're not sure of what things are read the owners manual or invest in a workshop manual.

If the bike has been laid up then despite the spark plug being new it could easily be fouled. Have you taken it out and checked it? You say the plug won't fire the engine - have you checked to see if there is a spark? Old fuel can be an issue but to be honest it's not as big a deal as it used to be. It generally takes more than a few months for it to be bad enough not to fire. If in doubt siphon some out and replace with fresh fuel.

Strangely enough I just inherited exactly £5,000 and since Bretton Motorcycles is where I get my MOT done (which is due soon) I was beginning to feel strange urges towards the dark side of the force.

It's further than your preferred range but try Bretton Motorcycles near Chester. Really great guy who is an independent Harley dealer.

1. The BMW (what else) - black as well - that ignored a no left turn sign, and two no entry signs, to turn left into a one way street (going the wrong way of course) thereby also running straight through a pedestrian crossing that was green for pedestrians with people crossing. 2. Said BMW (what else) - still black - that then realised what they'd done and slammed it into reverse going back across the pedestrian crossing, still green for pedestrians, still with people crossing, backing out into the traffic flow causing mayhem. 3. Said BMW (what else) - still black - then didn't realise the lights had changed so then went the other way through another pedestrian crossing which was now green for pedestrians coming the other way, and trough red traffic lights as well. Sorry - I failed art at school so no picture.

Cool pic Can't tell what model BMW it was but the black ones are usually the worst, very closely followed by the budget white ones.

Thanks folks - some suggestions there that sound really good. A very nice person left me a generous legacy and I have a thing about tools for the garage. I'm just selling a classic car I've spent years building because the fun is in the restoration, once it's finished I get bored so I'm looking a maybe doing a bike restoration next. The Abba Skylift looks very good - but I like the EaziRiser system that is a bit more universal (ie doesn't need a specific mount for different bikes). I shall ponder.... Edit: Just noticed that the Skylift has a swing arm removal kit that allows the lift to use the footpeg mounts, so that's pretty universal.

I am thinking of investing in a lift to make working on the bike more comfortable. Can anyone recommend a good quality lift please?