Bianco2564

Bought a new cover for the scooter, old one has seen better days.

Changed a front side light bulb on the Silverwing.

The lamp holder is underneath a plastic panel below the screen, one of the mounting clips had previously been "repaired" in a fairly ugly style ( not me I might add). Out with the rapid Araldite and good as new....

My two great uncles served in WW1.

My Mum always remembered them every Nov 11th, since she passed away ive picked it up.

Called down to the memorial in Church Stowe this morning.

It was in MCN recently, on my list to pay a visit.

On 09/11/2022 at 08:30, fastbob said:

Also , please bear in mind that this sort of practice is mainly applicable to older bikes that have passed through the hands of a series of DIY " Mechanics " of unknown expertise ..

Perhaps if all these diy mechanics learnt how to use a torque wrench, there wouldnt be half as many knackered threads?

A typical fastener is tightened to 75% of its yield point ( excepting stretch bolts) so to strip the thread initially they have had to overtightened it by a fair amount.

On 09/11/2022 at 08:30, fastbob said:

He will feel it get exponentially harder to turn but then it will begin to  plateau out , so to speak . That's when you STOP because that's as good as it's ever  going to get . Continue past this point and it will get easier to turn as the thread strips . It's up to the judgment of the individual and the location and function of the bolt as to whether you leave it in place or go for a Helicoil next time around . Also , please bear in mind that this sort of practice is mainly applicable to older bikes that have passed through the hands of a series of DIY " Mechanics " of unknown expertise ..

Yep, a predictable outcome, its under torqued and the thread is virtually stripped. Ignoring it is to be expected by your diy mechanic, anyone with an ounce of pride in their work would fix it.

11 hours ago, Tiggie said:

Found this on the road outside my house yesterday.

 

I think someone actually should of used a torque wrench!! 

 

 

Indeed, the amount of bolts you see laying in the road is quite scary.

1 hour ago, Bender said:

Your presuming the torque wrench has  been calibrated and certified which very few in domestic/DIY use ever are, I've replaced head studs when they just didn't feel right. 

In our hypothetical situation, its a new or recently calibrated wrench.

On 30/10/2022 at 09:28, fastbob said:

A Torque Wrench is a dangerous tool in the wrong hands . Use one on a partially damaged but serviceable thread and it won't be serviceable any more . 

Just trying to understand this thought.

If we have two M10 8.8 grade bolts, both partially damaged but "servicable" threads as you describe. Both threads are free of oil ,grease and dirt. Target torque is 55Nm, typical torque for that size fastener and grade.

Our torque wrench operative comes along and tightens one bolt, reaches 50 Nm and the thread starts to strip, torque wrench doesnt click, he keeps going and the thread goes completly, game over.

Operative B goes to tighten the 2nd bolt without a torque wrench and.....

33 minutes ago, fastbob said:

That's the job of the adjusters . A Torque Wrench is a dangerous tool in the wrong hands . Use one on a partially damaged but serviceable thread and it won't be serviceable any more . It's no good saying " But it didn't go click " if you've already felt it go tight and then go loose again . This all stems from kids being given PlayStation instead of Meccano . 

So if you undo the rear wheel nut, the axle won't move? . The forces from the chain and braking will start to move the axle because of the clearances in each mating part and the clearance will get bigger and bigger from the constant reversal of acceleration and braking . The adjusters move the axle to tension the chain correctly and set wheel alignment, the spindle nut keeps it all clamped up in the correct place.

If your damaged but "servicable" thread cannot hold the torque its designed for then it's not servicable, it needs replacing.  Using a torque wrench will show this up, doing it up by feel will probably result in the fastener being under tightened  and you are just ignoring the problem.

Perhaps so we don't hijack this thread any more, start a new thread , Torque wrenches? Tighten stuff up correctly or guess.

Like I said , you can tighten it correctly or just tighten it.

Clearly OP wants to do the former with his research on the web and youtube, so it would only be right for us to tell him the correct procedure. To say just tighten it up, there are variables which we don't know that would affect the outcome.

OP could weigh 8 stone dripping wet and be using a 19mm spanner or he could weigh 20 stone with the strength of a bear and use a 3 ft breaker bar. A torque wrench will cancel out any variable. In particular OP sounds like a biking noob with probably little mechanical experience so let's start him off on the right foot and do maintainence correctly. When he's an old hand like us with many years experience, yes he can probably tighten it up by feel.

As for the wheel spindle nut, the specified torque is is to clamp the rear axle assembly to the swing arm to prevent it moving from the forces from the chain and braking so not a small job to do.

1 hour ago, Bender said:

Yup it happens and it wasn't put on right

Prop bolts are more about sheer, like I said I wouldn't advise not to do it but it's not something I would think twice about and have done many track days and hill climbs in said cars and never had anything depart company from anything. 

 

My apprenticeship was in hgv garage, we had tight, tighter and a length of scaffold on on an inch drive bar. 

Yes the tech didn't follow the correct procedure and the result was the prop came loose. When it cost 100s of thousands £ to get a car to the grid, there can be no second chances if something has not been put together correctly. Sponsors get very upset when their car stops. 

Lets hope HGV garages have improved their standards from scaffold tight, no fun seeing a 44 tonne truck bearing down on you knowing it may have been assembled that badly. I was nearly taken out by a loose truck wheel when driving in the USA. 

It's a binary choice, tighten it up correctly or just tighten it.

Back on topic, my point was to say don't believe everything you read on the net. I've seen a lot of statements on different websites that have clearly been plagarised from the language used, so the disinformation spreads. Always check your source.

11 hours ago, Bender said:

I've never used torque wrench on a propshaft ever, now I'm not saying you shouldn't I'm just saying I've never, and that goes from plodding diesels to def not plodding petrol interesting things. 

 

As an apprentice in the dark ages a torque wrench was never mentioned unless it was engine internals, you actively got minus points if you selected the wrong size spanner though. 

It was drummed into us to use a torque wrench throughout my apprenticeship, it was at an old school garage where things were "done proper". Then moved to race engine building where everything and I mean every nut and bolt had to be torqued up, again another old school company. Failure to do so meant the sack.

This has stuck with me as the correct way of doing things and I torque up all key parts of my cars and bikes. I don't use a torque wrench on everything, I'd like to believe I have a good feel for non critical fasteners.

You have got to use an appropriate wrench to tighten a fastener, so why not a torque wrench, anything else is guesswork. 

As for the propshaft, I've seen the consequences of a prop coming loose at speed.

1 hour ago, Bender said:

We are on fixed rate till next April but we have been practicing energy conservation, I'm going to stump up for a heat pump tumble dryer in preparation 

We bought a Bosch heat pump dryer a couple of months ago.

Mrs grumbled at first because it took 3 times as long but now she's got used to it.

Another benefit is the heat given off by the dryer is kept in the house and warms the utility room up.

It's going to take time to recover the £500 we spent on it but the sooner you ditch the inefficient B rated machine the better.

Be very careful what you believe on the web, I was looking for info on my BMW car, found a copy from a trusted BMW forum I read.

Later found another copy on there, same format and the prop bolts which I was interested in was 20Nm different.

I'd urge you to find a helpful Honda dealer.

@fastbob lol , you do have to be selective on what you buy. I've bought a Clarke engine crane ,engine build stand and tool boxes from there, all cheap for what they are but work fine. Also bought a 1/2 inch socket set over 20 years ago and that is really good quality. What i wouldnt buy are any spanners, screwdrivers, sockets or bits, their quality are you say are poop.

The only worthwhile thing to visit in Cov city centre is Machinemart

https://www.nationalmotorcyclemuseum.co.uk/event-directory/museum-live/

Next weekend, been a couple of times before, great day out for free.

Note the £15 parking for cars, bit steep I thought but if you are getting into the museum for nowt ,it balances out I guess.

Heard on the news today, the wholesale price of gas is falling due to over supply?

https://www.hellenicshippingnews.com/europe-gas-prices-mostly-fall-on-possible-over-supply/

Bit of 2 stroke representation 

Petrol gone back up by 2p around here

31 minutes ago, Mississippi Bullfrog said:

Why did Edmondson go to the South Pole?

 

Vyvyan went to the south pole??

17 hours ago, techniques said:

I've owned a GSXR 600 for 11 months now and I've never once thought, "I wish I had more power right now."

 

An M3 tried to race me once.

Wasn't me honest, I know better than trying to outdrag a bike.

If you want a litre bike just go for it, if its an itch you need to scratch.

Had my R1 for 6 years, seen three figures a handful of times and maybe 130mph on a track, so did I really need a 150hp, 175mph machine?

Probably not, but I just love the easy power delivery, pulls strong from 3000rpm even in top gear.

I don't like using other computers at work, the mouse has different settings so they either shoot off the screen or don't move fast enough.

Also people have different screen settings on our stock control software , why can't they set it up the same as mine?? Nothing is in the same place as you can customise the various screens.

I also hate using laptops with the silly finger pad thingy. Was in a meeting the other day and I had to edit from a word document from someone elses laptop that was displayed on a wall screen for all to see, I made a pigs ear out of trying to just do basic functions like highlighting and changing the font colour.