Jevi

If you've got access to an inkjet printer you could try making your own with waterslide transfer paper and clear coating over the top

I'm hoping that's the case. Time will tell

Got frantic phone call at work on Friday "Dad the bikes broken down and I'm stuck". "Have you run out of petrol?" "I can hear a bit sloshing around" was the response. So I take an early dinner break, buy a petrol carrier and £6worth of petrol and do a 30 minute drive to meet my son. Long story short new petrol not the solution and and with the bike refusing to kick over or fire off the button - battery started to die, I left him to ring the recovery service (with my phone cos his was nearly flat) I went back to work. Today I removed and drained the tank - some rust on the bottom section of the tank filter (very minor amounts); removed the carb and partially stripped it down - all the necessary holes appeared clear Reassembled everything, put freshly filtered petrol back in and fired it up. Well tried to! Battery started to die so had to bang it on a fast charge. Adjusted the choke lever on the carb so it now operates between what I would say are the correct limits on the handlebar end - it used to go past what I would say was the off position. With the battery now charged I reconnected it and pressed the button. Bike fired up without the choke but was revving it's nuts off - was getting faster without me touching anything? I tried altering the mixture screw on the side of the carb but it didn't have any effect Turns out I forgot that when I was getting the carb off the bike I'd slackened off the throttle cable at the adjuster under the handlebars to give me enough slack to remove the slide from the top of the carb and it was as if the throttle was stuck fully open. It was at least 20 minutes on YouTube and umpteen attempts to alter the mixture screw before I realized Anyway, bikes back together, tanks cleaner and carb appears to be running ok - moral of this story - pay attention when you take something apart especially when your relying on YouTube and the Haynes manual to provide the guidance needed to put it back together

Has anyone ever retro fitted a rev counter to a lexmoto Arizona?

I meant tappet

Fastbob you hit the nail on the head - loose pushrod

Update - Rattle on engine turned out to be a loose valve! The boy put it into a local dealer/garage for an mot & service and they found the problem and sorted it out. - £50.00 the lot. Plus when he told them he was having a problem with cold starting on the button they told him to bring it back and they'd check it out and and fix it for free. Typically the next day it wouldn't start so he took them up on their offer. Yesterday we got a call, problem solved but because it had turned out to be an electrical problem rather than the carb (which was his original thought) he had to charge for the repair (£42.00 -an hours labour plus materials). Because he was able to show me the photos he'd taken as proof of the problem I didn't have any qualms about paying - broken earth wire (which I would have struggled to find) in the ignition circuit. With the bike sitting with front and back wheels aligned you could fire it up on the button but if the front forks were turned slightly you got nothing (starter turned over but the bike wouldn't fire). Anyway the bloke from the garage fixed the problem and explained everything that he'd had to and the boy sailed off into the sunshine for the first uneventful ride he's had since he bought the bike. If you're interested bike dealer/garage - BDS in North Shields (you can find them on Google)

Will try that today if I get the chance

Fastbob - I tried putting the bike in gear but couldn't shift it back or forwards (wheels just skidded didn't rotate). With the clutch in there was a slight rattle going forwards. Haven't tried taking the plug out yet so that's the next thing (been decorating so haven't had time ) The boy's come back with another problem but I think it's down to the idling screw. Starts the bike on the choke, let's it warm up for a while then rides off - no problems! Gets so far down the road and switches the choke off which immediately kills the engine. The choke lever rotates back past where I think it should stop so I'm going to try altering the idle screw to see if I can keep the engine running/ticking over when the lever is in what appears to be the off position - after that we'll start stripping the carb down to check the needle.

Thanks I'll give it a go hopefully it's nothing serious

My son's Arizona 125 seems to be running ok but there is a rattling noise on the engine. I've noticed myself if I kick it over there is a rattle which seems to come from the electric starter once the bike starts up. How does the electric starter work? Is there some part of the mechanism permanently linked into the engine or should it fully disengage once the engine fires?

Something I hadn't thought of. The it cab!e does look like its seen better days

Might try a total strip down, clean and change the jet like you suggest

Thought I'd sorted out the boys 125. Took the plug out - black,wet & sooty, so must be running rich? Warmed the engine up after struggling to get it started - nearly flattened the battery so resorted to the kick start. Wouldn't fire with the choke on but revved like a bastrad without it and died when I tried to hold it on with the choke. Tried the colortune plug and got the Bunsen burner blue colour almost straight away. Revved it up and got the blue to yellow back to blue as it climbed up then dropped when I released the throttle. So seems okay ( that's what the colortune booklet says it should do) But, I still think there's something wrong with the carb. I'm thinking of changing it for a proper honda cg125 carb the bikes a lexmoto Arizona so the engines a cg clone. Does anyone have any I info on them? Is it likely to be a straight swap or am I opening up a new worm can?

Think we're sorted, pulled the plug and found it to be very black and wet. Cleaned it up and checked the gapping before refitting, my son got up to 60 (downhill,wind assisted). I've got a colortune plug so will have a go at setting up the carb and will be fitting an inline fuel filter to stop any crap in the tank buggering up the flow.

Can do

No but he's back home tomorrow so we'll see if it's made a difference

No but he's back home tomorrow so we'll see

Hello Tango - I might have just made it worse cos I've added another gallon to the tank today. I probably should have drained it first because I don't know how long the bike was standing before we got it. Rantmachime - he was on he level but might have had a head wind. Rider555 - I'm a bit wary of touching the carb but I'll give it a go with some carb cleaner and see what happens

My son has a Lexmoto Arizona, its his first bike since taking his CBT. We've had a few problems/gremlin's and I've had to replace a couple of things ( bulbs, kick start pedal and switchgear) Anyway, after first attempt at fixing the indicator's he took a test ride, he was out may be an hour and came back complaining that the bike had got up to about 45 and wouldn't go any faster ( oh and the indicator's had stopped working after about 30 mins). I've sorted the indicator's ( loose connection on relay) and after reading several item's on the pitstop forum I've checked the battery connections and the air filter. The bike starts from cold on the button with the choke fully open. I've let it sit idling for about 5 mins and gradually closed the choke. I've found that if I fully close the choke the bike stutters and dies. Is it possible that I haven't let it warm up enough? Would this have anything to do with the lack of power when riding? As I said I couldn't see anything wrong with the air filter and with the bike running if I put my hand over the mouth of the filter box the engine dies so I don't think we have any leaking hose's. Can anyone give me a clue where to look next?

It looks like a stripped thread

It's okay I found the problem. Poor connection on the multi plug connecting the front of the bike to the back. Sorted!

My son bought himself a lexmoto arizona after passing his cbt. It started okay when we brought it home and everything had been working properly when we picked it up from the seller but on his first trip out he lost the indicators completely he also couldn't get all the gear change indicators to work. The gear indicators was easy to solve the bulbs were missing on 3rd, 4th &5th! The indicators are another problem, I've replaced the switch unit completely (something disappeared onto the floor of the garage when I opened it up to test the cabling) and taking the side panels and seat off hasn't revealed anything obviously burnt/broken or missing! Any ideas?