potatobroxd

im about to do a valve clearence check on a cb125f & got myself a haynes manual; although ive run into some issues: 1. How do we determine size of an o-ring? 2. It said to 'blow through the oil passage in the cover with compressed air to ensure it is clear' i dont have compressed air neither can I blow in it as the engine will still be on the frame. 3. Does the valve adjuster locknut need to be torqued accurately? 4. Image 6.5b, what does it mean by 'ensure dowel is secure'? Ive attached an image for better explanation, notice point 5 and 7

Have been putting a lot of miles on my bike so guessing cables need to be lubed sooner or later. Is chain lube ok as a lubricant for cables? MC-Garage says any lube is fine but some comments said chain lube is sticky etc.. I was planning to use Wurth chain lube as i alrd have it in stock

Varadero 125

Has anyone done this on a daily basis and and there ever any severe consequences of doing so? E.g did people mess with your helmet, any scratches made by others, bugs infestation in your helmet im starting to get sick of carrying it on my back and no i will not spend 200 quid for a top box set as im a cheap ****

I've ridden both bikes and now I've ended up with a Vulcan 650. The two bikes are VERY different both style and performance wise. The vulcan is a 'sporty' type of cruiser with a bobber body positioning. It's a lot lighter and nimble and has a lot more torque & HP per weight than the shadow and I'm pretty sure it's the one of the fastest stock cruiser out there. It's also fuel injected parallel twin from the ninja 650 family so its extremely reliable. It also has ERGO fit so very comfy for a wide range of size. HOWEVER, the cons: - Parallel twin sound (not typical cruiser and I'd honestly prefer a v twin sound) - it's sportier than a cruiser both style and handling and overall - style is arguable, some prefer it some don't - Looks smaller than the shadow so if you prefer a big bike look then go for the shadow In short the vulcan is in every way better than the shadow but its not your typical cruiser *content may be slightly biased

How many miles is that usually?

I think it's recommended once every two years but I've heard stories about people riding their bikes for years without a leak despite not changing the fork oil ever. It's neither listed on the owners manual So how often do you do so?

I dont like the back end that much; makes the bike look like quasimodo i think its a bit too tall for the bobber look

I was wondering what time of day motorcyclist tend to ride? I generally prefer morning rides as roads are less crowded (referring to weekends)

sorry my foreign blood was low on tea and crumpets at time of writing this thread please dont deport me on side note: how do you wash your bike if you live in a FLAT (NOT apartment) and dont have access to a hose?

I was wondering if you can spray the soap provided on the motorcycle e.g on the chain when washing at the self wash place?

its worse when you go l plates. Some drivers near my area are dickheads in the sense that they move ever so slighty to tighten the gap just to play with you

Considering its a 125 you're bringing home I'd assume its pretty light. Me and my buddy rented a medium sized van for 30 quid and lifted my CB125F in the van ourselves. Just lock it in first on the side stand and you'd be fine; just be extra cautious when driving. If you're worried itll tip over just grab a couple straps from poundland and strap it on the provided hooks on the van.

Asking for any locals that may know any good strip of twisties not filled with potholes and debris?

I am aware that there's an arrow on the sidewall, I'm wondering about the possible dangers from doing so on a bike as Im sure you can do it on a car? *im guessing it could be due water not being able to disperse properly?

I tend to go round the roundabout a couple times before exiting to practice cornering; maybe I should reverse the wheels every thousand miles? Are there dangers of doing so?

grab a used honda, if you know how to haggle, depreciation is pretty much 0 when you sell the bike. Chinese ones are good looking but I'd have doubts on resell value

would there be any noticeable handling issues if that were the case?

Get well soon!

I was wondering if you'd get a severely uneven pair of tires if you if leaned right more than you do left? (roundabouts for example) as my commute seems to only consist of leaning right for both ways.

I've attached a picture below I've recently inspected my chain and noticed a link looking odd. Since the chain is only around 1800 miles, I'm wondering if the image below should be a cause of concern? (The other links are perfectly fine)

can you loosen nuts with torque wrenches as well? (assuming its below the max torque it's rated for)

my rear axle nut is spec says it should be torqued to 88nm but obviously after the bike has been used for a few years it will be somewhere around 100-110nm to loosen that nut. I was wondering what length should my breaker bar be to torque that much? ive got a buddy with a 400mm breaker bar, do you guys reckon that would be enough? Cheers

Should I buy a torque wrench with spanner sockets or a set of spanner considering they are fairly similary priced?

How much did it cost and how long was it?