SlowBusa

How can I put this nicely and positively ? Your a Doorman right? You know you cant act or look like a pushover, you have to be confident.......its the same with a bike on the road But I see your low confidence in the video and so will the car drivers behind you You need a bigger bike because you seem to be riding like a victim on the 125 and often car drivers will try and bully a small bike.........but very often wont with a bigger one Your riding style isnt bad ...just a little slow........I dont mean riding fast and power sliding everywhere ....but I think a bigger bike will give you more confidence And hopefully this new instructor is the one you need.........because the other instructor you talked about sounds like a complete Tosser BTW you are right to be wary of man hole covers and Tar Snakes .....I avoid them like the plague

Yep Thats what Ive done They are Heavy lumps to try and manhandle

And Take LOTS of Pics as you do it You can get away with bungee cording tank to rear frame.....saves 30 min rather than removing it

Your gonna need new exhaust gaskets too But they are cheap thankfully

All I can say is this is the procedure for my hayabusa, (ive done it a few times on busa's) your bike may not need to be practically stripped to the bone ...although I doubt it (the woes of liquid cooled multi cylinder bikes) Its a fairly simple job compounded by all the work needed to just get to the block/head "171-228 PSI" is the range a Busa engine needs to run, anything below or above will result in either bad running or "possibly" detonation Your bike will be a different range Does it take special sockets to remove engine bolts too? mine does You will at least need a rear paddock stand Ask yourself this.........is it really burning oil that bad? If your answer is not really..........save yourself days in the garden freezing and wishing you had never started

That would be incredible if you could PM on way

beyond my capabilities im afraid although its something i should look into

The problem is the nuts are the same dimensions as the pic and it dosnt leave any room for 2 and the dimensions are tight and sunken into the head When the Nut is on and tightened down there is probably only 1 mm thread proud of the nut surface

leaking head gasket PSI dropped to 150 needs to be 171-228 PSI and its accurate because 170 and it dosnt run properley

The Below is for APE CHN10125.10 head nuts and CS1300STN Cylinder head studs that I have on my bike Does anyone know where I can buy Nuts by Thread AND Hex size? OR a stud installer of the below dimensions The reason is I need a nut(or 2 nuts) with the following dimensions.......M10 1.25mm pitch and 14mm Hex size (spanner size 14) The solution is a Stud Installer, but it has to have locking allen key on Top but every stud installer Ive found is 17-19 spanner size ...and room is a factor for cylinder head studs/nuts on my bike APE do One for my setup but cant find one in the UK My solution was to Slot the Studs and install with a screwdriver socket attachment (it works but not desirable), but would like to find a nut/installer for the right job

I may be a bit anal about it, but for some reason I always set to #1 to TDC before I even tilt the block.........dont know why I do it but I do

As Requested Took 5 hours to get to this Head and Barrels off tomorrow hopefully

And carry a bag of salt just incase

Will do one tomorrow

Or shes driving over a portal to hell? It is London after all

Ive got mine ready for head off now wheels off (so dont have to take clutch cover/front sprocket off and makes room to work on head) Oil drained Coolant drained Oil cooler off Radiator off Exhaust off Throttle bodies off Tank bungee strapped back & Engine tilted forward so its accessible head and barrels coming off this weekend parts ordered god its hours of work

This is AFTER re assembly

Yep drain coolant (dont you have to remove radiator on your bike?) and run a heat cycle with current oil/filter then change oil/filter ...that way anything thats suspended in the old oil is drained ...and dosnt circulate in the new oil

£ assembly lube edit: Although I dont know what others think but I use 2-stroke oil (30w) cylinder head studs/bolts are best with 30w instead of 10w/40 (APE manufacture recommends it)

A magnetic wand is so cheap BUT such an important piece of kit for your tool collection (get a one with a flexi last section for bolts you drop into engine area) I mark up a sheet of paper with piston valve numbers for reference then use a small bag for each valve and its furniture with individual numbers on the bags that correspond with the "paper ref" and put them somewhere they cant be disturbed by accident (i use kitchen windowsill) Then Every valve I take out gets my full attention (you cant afford your mind to wander) As [mention]TimR[/mention] says the Collets are fiddly little buggers and you should treat them like they are gold nuggets (they were hard to find when I lost one)

The Buzzing noise is your fuel pump. its supposed to do it, you probably just havnt noticed it before OR its louder than normal because its struggling because of a blockage When it is running how does it run? Ok or Good?

And of course your gonna check shims while your at it? Isnt it annoying when a simple job turns into a major venture

Your not actually disturbing the valves as they rotate slowly when the engine is running anyway But grinding them can make a BIG difference and seeing as your gonna take the head off you might as well do the job Bad valve sealing can lose you a lot of PSI Compression = Power Dont expect it to be a 5 min job though

Im the same And "OH Shit" moments are VERY Very Rare! The way I see it is I will get there faster than walking Or the Bus Believe it or not but I dont often actually Overtake anyone and I NEVER open the engine up unless there are no junctions and definitely no traffic in front.......because when I do open the throttle the Horizon comes up Very fast!

A lot of Hayabusa engine builders use it on new gaskets with the aim of turbo install but you dont need it on new This time Im having the block and head skimmed and another new cometic at £80 a gasket