kja.busa

95% of disc locks are die cast, one good crack with a hammer they will break, and the edge of the brake disc actually makes it easier too, a good chain and quality padlock is far better.

Why not have your seat cut down and re-covered? Theres quite a few firms do it nowadays.

Check your spark plugs and plug leads.

The linkages can be swapped for longer ones, this will lower the back end, the forks can be slid through the yokes to lower the front, its probably an hours work to do it all. Just be aware it will reduce ground clearance and you'll probably want to take the centre stand off to save it scraping when cornering. Heres the link for the lowering kit.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-GSX650F-Lo ... 7C294%3A30

ps. Don't mess with the rear shock settings, they won't lower the bike.

The linkages can be swapped for longer ones, this will lower the back end, the forks can be slid through the yokes to lower the front, its probably an hours work to do it all. Just be aware it will reduce ground clearance and you'll probably want to take the centre stand off to save it scraping when cornering. Heres the link for the lowering kit.....

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Suzuki-GSX650F-Lo ... 7C294%3A30

Or fit one of these, I use one as I don't run standard gearing.

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

 

Now that looks a good bit of kit

I might go for one of those as was toying with having a play with my gearing too

About £50 ish

Theres potential Dave, but then there always is, depends how intent you are to complete it. Bin the exhausts, forget them. A tidy secondhand 4:1 will be a good investment, ebay is your friend. Bin the brake lines too, check the tyres too and the drive chain for tight spots. Strip the calipers off and give them a once over. The forklegs bottoms will paint, or powdercoat. Fresh fork oil is a good investment too. Strip the rear suspension linkage and grease the bearings. The tank can be salvaged even if it is a bit rough inside unless you find a good cheap secondhand one. The carbs may have some manky petrol in them and may need a clean out. Be wary of using old batteries on Suzuki's they play havoc with the generator/reg-rectifier, which could cost you a few quid too on top of everything else. You going to be busy for a while!!

Have posted for ya on the other thread, but have a good look around and tell ya fella to get himself into the midlans for Englands best roads (uh oh now I've done it).

 

SSSSSSSShhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh Akey, we don't want the riff raff knowing that!

Then just change the drive unit too, that should sort it surely?

 

Now there's an idea......

Or fit one of these, I use one as I don't run standard gearing.

http://www.healtech-electronics.com/

I went from standard Suzuki discs, worn out, to Braking Wavy's, admittedly good, but knackered in 12-15,000 mile and back to standard Suzuki, as Suzuki had their discs on offer at the time, autumn last year. Fitted two sets of Suzuki pads, cleaned the calipers and I can't fault them, although I should point out I do run a Brembo radial master cylinder too. All this talk of standard discs being poor is just that, talk, I race at Santa Pod regularly, and heavily brake from 140mph in a fairly short space, no problems whatsoever.

ok, never had this problem, but will know not to get the hammer out.......

do you have to replace discs as a pair like on my cage (car)....? obviously new pads...

Deffo new pads to go with the new disc, but if only one disc is worn, i'd replace just the one. Its safety Frank, brakes have to be right mate, can't bodge things like that.

Do you really want to "bodge" your brakes like that for the sake of £100? I'll replace mine thanks.

isn't that how the replacement buttons are fitted??

But the ones that are in the disc currently are worn, thats worn on the external diameter of the button, and the new ones will be fitted with a hydraulic press, not a "'kin big 'ammer and a lump of wood!"

you can tell me to shut up...

SHUT UP!!!!!

yes,

but could you take the disc off and hammer the spools closed... afterall they're just like big rivets... put the disc on some wood, so as not to damage it and with a socket the size oof the spool, go round and tap them all, then refit..

or am i being simple...

Do you really want to "bodge" your brakes like that for the sake of £100? I'll replace mine thanks.

Unless you try riding off regularly with it on!!!!!

Yep, fraid so, although I've heard you can have the "buttons" replaced.

Theyre def bolted on properly and correctly torqued up. It only does it on one side aswell. I didnt notice it, it was the mechanic in the shop. Just checked the sheet. It says front right brake disc has play on the spools? So maybe ive been a bit off the mark

Erm, thats the disc, not the caliper!!!

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd76/kjandrosie/groan-1.gif

Its bolted correctly to the fork leg? If so the only other movement could be the sliding part of the caliper, which is what its supposed to do tbh. the pins are usually greased so they slide freely and shouldn't wear, the pads are secured with into the caliper body(item 11/12), so without seeing it I 'm not sure what other movement there could be.

Is this like your brake caliper?

http://i222.photobucket.com/albums/dd76/kjandrosie/20.gif

The carburettor is in the casing on the right hand side of the engine at the front, remove the screws and you'll soon find it. Or follow the throttle cables!

ps, don't run it without an airfilter, it will run weaK, too much air getting through.

Then just change the drive unit too, that should sort it surely?

In the caliper? or the disc (rotor)?

An absolute legend, and sadly missed.

They used to say a "squirt" down the spark plug hole (with the plug out!) and left overnight would clear the carbon build up, or certainly some of it, not tried it myself, but I use a similar additive on the car regularly.

If your going to tinker with it, its well worth stripping the head and grinding the valves into the seats. They aren't done that well at the factory, and a couple of hours lapping with grinding paste pays dividends, new valve stem oil seals too as its been stood a while is also a good investement. The frame will be better powder coated, as its so durable and easy to keep clean. Shouldn't cost the earth either. If you get stuck or need any advice just pm me.

I'm in Brigg, and usually at Willi Woods on a Saturday afternoon, if your about then come and say hello, I'm on a Red/Black busa, not many about in that colour scheme either.