mealexme

got them at the moment. they are cheap and you can tell, even from a distance

great, thanks. Where the hell did you find that pic?

mealexme - keeping the forum active since 2010. Yea... Another question I'm thinking about getting a race set up for the front brake lines. They are about £20 cheaper than the oem set up, so I can't really go wrong. The problem is, I cant find the answer I want for the question I have... OEM set up is one line coming out of the reservoir, then splits into two further on. So for a race set up, will I need a new reservoir which allows for two lines coming out, or do they still come out of the one hole? I tried looking it up on the net and on google images, but unfortunately its one of those things people assume you know, but if you dont know, your screwed

FML thats a lot of money! I will try adjusting my current ones first

haha with mine all the way to the left, it still isnt level on the center stand. Still points forward. Thanks for looking though

thankies to both. I presumed there was a set place for the bars to be, I wanted to get them back to origonal, but if it doesnt matter then I shall give it a try. And make sure no wires are caught or stretched of course!

Guess who? Haha. Right, basically for ages now I have felt like the bars are a bit of a stretch after a while of riding. I was reading through the haynes about how to bleed the brake system, and it said to get the resivour "as level as possible" when on the center stand. I had a look at my own, and the resivour is definitely not level, no matter how the bars are turned, so I am thinking the bars have twisted within the holders and have twisted forwards, making it further to reach, if that makes sense? Its certainly possible, as its hit the floor 4 times whilst i have had it. (Not all were my fault) Anyway, could anyone take a photo of their bandit either on the center stand so I can see how level the brake res. should be, and/or with the steering fully to one side or the other so I can see how far the bars should be from the tank. Thanks

I think 3 layers, left 10-15 mins between, or what ever it said on the container, I think it was 15.

oh yea, there will be another two tomorrow! Is there no way of sealing polished metal rather than having to paint it? I like it nice and shiny! It was lacquered only about an hour or two after polishing, so I presumed there would be no trace of rust what so ever, especially as it hadn't rusted previously

Oooooh, ok. This is why I love this forum! Thanks guys, I will opt for them then

so, here we go again, another post in the pitstop... Well, I did say I was planning on a binge week of maintenance... A good half a year ago now I decided to polish up some dingy looking metal, but being untreated, it went back to its blackened horrid state quite quickly. So, que my bright idea of lacquer! I did a few parts here and there, but for some reason two bits have started rusting... They didnt rust when they were untreated, but they are once lacquered? That doesnt even make sense to me. I'm guessing lacquer isnt a suitable sealant for polished metal, so what is? Something clear? Thanks Alex

looking at the CL website, it doesnt really give any sort of info if the pads are hh or not. I did a google search for the pads that fit my bike and its saying they are all hh. (KBX5, A3+ and RX3) So does everyone that buys from CL buy hh pads, or am I just getting wrong info off google? If thats the case, then surely that means that CL are actually race pads? If so, then can anyone recommend any other decent places to get GG pads? I don't want race pads... " Or am I reading into this all wrong, and CL is in fact, not the company that makes them, but a type of pad, like GG and HH?

should do, if not then its probably in the contacts part on the forum. Expect a call with a lot of swearing! Haha

thanks that makes life nakea bit more sense when looking at brake pads haha. I want to make sure I get this right, the brakes being THE most important part of the bike! So sorry for dragging this thread out, I will make up my mind now ... maybe

cool Its just usually when I pick up tools to do a simple job, I almost write off the bike or kill myself haha. Failing to put the chain on properly, having it landing in the fast lane... glue on my heated grips slipping... accidently adjusting the hight of my headlights, thinking I was unscrewing the bolt holding the headlights in, but actually undooing the adjuster nuts... The list goes on, I shall be following haynes to the letter! Haha

a pain in the ass to get too, sounds about right. Its done 22k though and as far as I know (1 other owner, got all the receipts from him) its never been checked even though its meant to be done every 12k. The haynes will deff help me out!

uh....huh. I thiink it has locknut. And I dont have the set yet, but its on my list along with a new gasket

The website is saying use A3+ for the front (well, it says use A3+ for "powerful" bikes, but coz the bandits heavy, its going to take a bit of stopping power) I have found out that they are sintered (or what ever it is). How do I know if they are GG or HH? Or does HH mean sintered?

personally, I trust the sellers, and they are brembo pads, so I definitely trust them! To be honest, I like the initial bite in the dry and in the wet. With the old pads, I could lock the wheel up in the wet or dry (and I did to start with). New ones I cant even do that in the wet, but it was the fact that it could grip so hard straight away that I liked. I ended up getting used to them though and not locking them up which was good, but they felt far more effective than my current ones!

Or more specifically, how easy is it to mess it up? I have a haynes manual and the tools. It seems pretty straight forward but it gives it a 3 out of 5, which usually means is waaay too hard. Am I likely to tuin anything in the process? The bike can be off the road for about 2 weeks before the lands end trip, so I will have time to do all the maintenance needed then, so expect more posts in the pitstop haha

done about 1250 miles on them. They have never been as good as the previous lot. Can someone check these over for me, as the brembo site gives a lot of contradicting info... First they say ceramic brakes are ideal for direct oem replacement, but then they say they show a chart where the ceramics are nowhere near as good as any other types... So I have opted for a different type. Are these any good for road use? I want brakes that work well in dry or wet conditions. Mainly cold as I tent to use engine braking more than my actual brakes (which means I only use them when I really need them, like a car pulling out) but I ride in http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/370758523769 A sintered compound intended specifically for front brakes, typified by particularly good efficiency under all operating conditions. An ideal alternative to OE pads

there is usually a downside to good things though. Maybe they just cost more? I shall look into this. Thanks

Do HH wear quicker then?

my last set of pads were ace. the slightest touch from the brakes and they would grip nice and sharply. The ones I have at the mo arent as responsive. They both worked well in the wet and in the dry but the current ones dont quite feel as responsive. Any ide what sort I need to get the responsiveness back? Also what brake oil I would need. whats the difference between them all? I probably wont be doing them for a month or two, but still

Does anyone know of any decent mirrors with indicators that will fit nicely on the faired bandit? When I say decent I mean ones that arent knock offs... I have heard of people taking apart gsxr mirrors and fitting them on the stalks of VFR's, but I dont think that will work on the bandit Has anyone done it, or know of a way to do it? Cheers