jedibiker

Just to update, these do seperate with damping in place. I did remove it this time anyway to check it over. Not sure what I was thinking really as I must have split the forks to replace seals last time. Oddly the damping bolt torqued with the forks not compressed. It seems to sit tight in the bottom.. some are shaped to do so.

Does yours have a bleed nipple on the lever to? near the master cylinder? seems odd its take so long to bleed but I had one once where it took ages, and i think i used to much red rubber grease, only use brake fluid now to rebuild as per haynes.

Just for reference, I had the one way valve thing and didnt like it. I tried the way i did the car which is the 1 man bleed system, tube, bottle and tie wrap. Put some fluid in the bottle covering the bottle so the pip can sit in it no air. drill hole in the cap for the pipe and a tiny breather hole. attach pipe to nipple and secure with tie wrap. fill resevoir and undo nipple and pump brakes, when fluid low, lock off nipple with brake down, refill, open and pump til no air, works great. I think the 1 way valve I had was cheap crap as needed to much pressure.

Thankyou all so much, only just got notified.

Yeah that bolt is a pain, on the last bike an impact gun was my friend

it is possible with the bolt still in and i have the spring compressor and level tools etc. I just wanted to do a full strip and alot of videos on upside down they just pull them apart with no attention to the bolt at the bottom. (on my bandit it had to come out) but these when pulled are met with resistance. Ive got bushes etc so it may be a case of full strip this time

Hey to you all.. Am i right that I can pull apart the forks like every other fork without undoing the damping bolt at the bottom/? Last time i didnt risk it as it seemed solid, but im going to do all the bushings etc to cheers

I will bet they just put some air in and didnt check it or the gauge they used isnt right. So you went over the amount needed but when you took some out it was to much. when i top mine up its suprising how a little air freeing can be 2-6 psi in a second. if they keep going down then id go get the tyres checked for leaks. I dont have the tpms and check tyres prior to every ride unless its back to back days, over 5 weeks they lose 2psi each wheel

I went out last week, and the cold seemed to get through way to easy. leather pants and seperate jacket. base layer etc. Just needed a little extra protection

missing out on the wonderful roar and vibration sensatio.. But, the key to the test is being in control and riding safe. your instructor would be best person to ask as he/she will converse with the tester

I do clean them regular was just curious on general practice. seems its not a topic many think about haha

Ive always used a little red rubber grease on pistons to help keep it moving smooth,. but yes needs cleaning a lot. Ive heard mixed ideas, so what do you long time bikers do? cheers

on my wifes bike I got one of those cable lube things, gave it a really good spray through with gt85 and loads of crap came out. then I like to drop some engine oil in slowly and they runs smooth for miles. As said it could just be old and done in. they are cheap ish to do. after that maybe someone put heavy duty springs in it which makes the clutch harder to operate.

with this the damper rods that fix into the fork stayed in, the only thing to come out was the rod that goes down the damper rod, its possible I screwed the cap on and the nut was higher up but i feel sure I wound it down so the cap was seated. Its also possible it was always only 2 click and I didnt notice. as it stands it doesnt need to be softer anyway, maybe even a quarter turn in but it rides brilliant. (done about 200 miles since this post) I may just have a few hours on it at some point and double check I didnt make a mistake. Done right way up forks plenty but it was first with upside down and took my time. I didnt unwind the preload either but noone seems to with these as there isnt any pressure when undoing the cap. unlike right way forks that take your head off haha

ah well..

Hey all. noticed today the forks will only turn out 2 full turns, the book says 3.5.. do they get like that over time Due to new oil and seals it needs to be set for the better oil so thought id start at the soft end, was surprised its only 2 turns, fair enough its only just too soft, but at 1.5 turns out where it was before its stiff now. It is set ok, just wondered if the extra turn can be got back if needed. cheers

Clutch is working now, was just the cable as it was totally fecked. Did check the clutch anyway and it all looked ok, re lubed and changed oil seal for the actuater arm. First start up clunked into gear and it never did but i suspect it needs to fully settle again etc..

I have a feeling its just a case of a bad cable and it stretched and started to snap gradually. The arm I struggle to move should be hard to move as its got 5 springs to move. New cable on the way and hopefully thats all it is.

It was the same before and after, but I did put the rod in after the cover went on and turn it to grab the push rod. the rod doesnt seem to be pulling the pin at all and something seems to be holding the plate back. the push rod has play but im not yet sure if thats normal. I cant see anything wrong yet. Il get a load of pics and get em posted. cheers

Well, had an amazing ride to Wales around the brecon beacons. 200 mile home ride and 50 miles left and I felt a snap on the clutch lever, then the lever was softer. I then realised I had little to no clutch so pulled into mc ds. I had to turn bike off to stop. The lever was trying to pull too hard as the main mechanism wouldnt go any further to get the clutch to work. Managed to get home and took the case off to look inside All looks ok, plates are in spec but all metal plates are smooth as if never had any of the usual dents. Wonder if they are after market and meant to be like that. clutch was ok and perfect til that moment. The push rod doesnt seem right to me, but ive never had this style. any ideas? Video of what ive seen so far https://we.tl/t-FFyKSd7ybw

yeah theres 2, one is under and goes down which is the drain, the other goes to the back and is breather, managed to find a diagram to trace the holes. knew one was drain as had a bit of rust. going to see if i can push some air through the breather hole under cap.. but like you said it could be a valve anyway so il not force it

the breather pipe is ok but im now thinking its blocked inside somewhere.

dont forget your shoulder checks and mirrors.

This is so true. I check tyres weekly too, check comms are ok, get all gear ready, unlock one back, get the other out the house. Unlock the gate to get to the front of house, then unfold mirrors. Cameras for helmets on and set up. total ball ache but worth it for good rides out. on hot days im melting before we even set off. when i was 20 id ride in what i was wearing and be out in 5 mins.

it lives inside and sometimes if the kitchen gets warm it will set it off,. also did it when got home from a ride sunday. runs fine i just didnt want to ignore it if fumes are struggling to vent