jedibiker

If its tight and no leak why tackle it? or are you getting a plug ready for the next change? It its tight surely its ok. sorry if ive got it wrong

Im looking to get a satnav for the bike to avoid using my phone. Ive seen the beeline is a good price, not to keen on the simple view but the more i watch it kinda makes sense. Whats it like in practice? cheers

another MOT pass no advisories and oil and filter change. Might be last one if we do buy new bikes in June/July. although I expect prices are higher peak time

I use it on painted parts, but thats just more of a polish. there is a proper product which does ceramic coat, had it on my old car and it was great. curious if it would help metal too. also very costly compared to acf50 etc I use this on the paint. not sure if its better than normal polish or wax. https://diamondbrite.co.uk/product/diamondbrite-ceramic-detailing-glaze/

Yeah its a grease, but compared to normal grease? fiver nowt like

wouldnt any grease have the same effect as it creates a barrier

I didnt know there was a grease.. might be best on sprocket

looks like the bit to adjust shock spring, yss shock is similiar anyway

E10 is another story, getting 40 miles per tank on that crap.

cheers guys, oddly her chain went really bad in 3 weeks of the bad wind, i usually clean it with chain cleaner, then wipe over with acf50 before chain lube. luckily it cleaned but i think areas that move fast or get the wind direct rust quicker, it must wear off in wind simply. But i have the big bottle so will carry on. have started spraying GT85 on parts after a wash down to add a little extra around headers etc. seems to have helped. mine lives inside all warm and toasty.

the fz8 is naked ish and only about 80-90bhp.

Morning all. My mrs bike has really struggled with rust this winter. it lives outside and we do ride all year. Now, I did ACF50 it not long ago with a compressor and spray gun, good coating and wiped done as per instructions. But some areas still rust pretty quick. Rear metal on pipe for brake, lower nuts on brakes, rear sprocket nuts (they move fast so not surprise product doesnt last) but i thought it soaked in. Gear lever is rubbed with acf50 regular and still rusts. My faith in this is low, but the online videos and reviews are good. So, what are your experiences and is there a better product. We are looking at new bikes soon but still want to sort this.

I improved mine with a mild polish. but didnt want to push it too far. there may be a product for it, but also once youve taken outer layer off it may not repel water so re do that

id be checking the earth part of the wiring, but if the battery is old it could be that. the bikes running power should boost the amps though to even light up the control so wiring seems the problem. I got my mrs R&G ones which were a very good price and get really hot.

minutes really

Hello all. I wasnt sure if this was a pitstop chat or normal so please move if not. So my bandit is running lovely, but Im noticing im getting less miles to a full tank.. so cost per litre isnt a factor. Ive used e5 and e10 and it doesnt change much if at all. But I used to get over 200miles to a tank. and with that give it some beans as well as cruise. Lately pretty much cruise with the odd little blast and get 165 before 1 bar flashes, and I usually fill up as soon as poss of within 10 miles. So a good drop off 20-30 miles per tank.. Should I be looking for an issue at all. Or is it the fuel thats changed... only had a tank of e5 since the e10 change

ThiEYE Electric Bike Pump 120PSI Portable Air Compressor Mini Tyre Inflator With Large LCD Display and 4000mAh Rechargeable Battery for Cars, Bikes, Balls and Other Inflatables, Airkit 2 I bought this so we have something on the bikes when out on tour in May for 8 days. I wanted something small but also able to get the job done. Ive tested it on a car and bike and yes its slow compared to my compressor but you see it going up 0.5psi every few seconds. Its not that loud either. it weighs 480grams. It also has a light on it. The good thing is no wires. It charges up and you just connect to the tyre and turn it on. you can preset it, HOWEVER, i tested the gauge against my calibrated gauge and this will say 30psi when the tyre is 38 for example. But the main use is to get air in a tyre to get to a garage etc. Il just allow for the 8-10 psi difference. cost me £34 in the amazon sale.

Riding sunday, the mrs has tyres to scrub in, ive new base layers to try out. drinking wine, eating crisps.. (wine after the ride of course) today the step son comes for his scooter 50cc we got him.. his first steps to transport.

haynes for both bikes, fazer it seems says increase to 42 for faster riding.. The bandit maybe isnt meant to go fast lol

doesnt that make the first post useless? I thought the post was really useful then scrolled down and saw this part. Most manuals says 36/36, my bandit book does, but I realise that 14 years old. Tyres have changed alot apparently. And, adding to your post, we had tyres fitted to the mrs fazer yesterday, bridgestone 023 and rear is 160/60/17 and he too put 36 front 42 rear. Ive had hers at 34front and 38 rear. To be honest its all confuses me, I watched dave moss go on about pressure should suit the rider etc. heavier people needing the higher pressure etc. I have m7rr on mine and over 38 psi it seems hard. and yes ive put a new shock on to make the mechanics all work better. I have 34 front too as it seems comfy and still handles, now im wondering if ive made a mistake. the 36/42 does seem to be the go to pressure now, 42 just seems high for 1 up riding unless bike is loaded and or the rider is heavy. im 17st 5. cheers by the way, and i hope ive not come across as arguing as im certainly not at all.

Ive had mine on for maybe 4500 and its getting low already, m7rr. thinking of going to pilot road5 next or bridgestone 023.

Since this advice i have booked a room at the 220 mile mark, then continue up to inverness the next day, totally agree it would do us in for sure. cheers

sounds ok to me too. all i could here is the bike going down into gear slowly. also normal

why would I be offended? your probably right. The only issue with an expert is what they set things too. Rider sag being the first goal. now to get rider sag correct on that bike id need stiffer springs, which is great for racing etc, but not road use, well to a certain level. Ive got the yss rear shock as its meant to be awesome, could not get sag figures without winding right in, then its too stiff.. A guy on youtube bought same spring, went for the spring set for his weight and the ride was too harsh. so he went back to the spring it came with and it was better. Im finding the rear not too bad but have had to wind off preload so the rider sag is out but comfort is coming in but keeping handling too. So at this point I agree it may pay off to speak to an expert if the advice is a better spring which not only give some comfort but also handles with or without the correct sag numbers. Ive watched loads if dave moss but he is very track based but there is good advice on static sag as a starter. Im not expecting my bike to ride like a BMWK1300 which is smooth, but to just not feel all bumps. So the 15w oil for the front is coming out and 10 going back in, as that was much closer. rear has lots more settings to play with, but rider sag wont be a factor unless i buy a heavier spring and risk it being harsh. cheers

Ah right, Ive got Hagon progressives now, and really cant get on with them. No matter what the preload it seems to feel harsh, tried 7.5w, 10w and now 15w and it feels like every bump is felt. winding off the preload and it uses loads of travel.. so I do wish I had tried the hyper pro.