fredc

Booked Mod 2 on 11th November at 8.30 in the morning

but the sun doesn't come up til 8.45

all the dates they had left until the end of november were first thing in the morning

Passed Mod 1 this morning

The only concern I had was getting up to speed for the swerve and emergency stop on my chinese 125 but I did both first time at 52 & 52

Passed Mod 1 this morning

they only have 1 speed trap and it was set up to go left

I have my mod 1 on tuesday and the test centre has the course laid out left & right

Who's choice is it whether I go left or right round the top turn

me or the examiner

or a magnet wand

magnets dont work on aluminium

The only way to be certain there's no swarf in the engine is to take the head off

um just gna bump this back to the top lol

also does anyone know the space available for the u turn and slalom etc.?

http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/view ... 47&t=30531

I bow to your superior knowledge of 12.8v batteries

You should have around 14v

You wont get 14V until the engine is running

what you'd all do at a set of traffic lights (to turn right), they go green but the right arrow traffic light hasn't turned green yet. Do you go anyway? or wait for the right arrow to turn green?

If the green light for straight ahead is just a green light you can turn right when the road is clear.

If the green light is a straight ahead arrow you have to wait for the right filter to turn green before moving off.

Use a valve spring compressor to release the collets then remove the spring retainer

then do the reverse to put it back together with a new retainer

This video shows how to do it on a car engine

with new retainers the shims will probably need changed

From the link it looks like the shim buckets are part of the valve spring retainer

So you would have to replace those - item 12009 in the diagram

looks like a head off job

If you pass on an automatic you are limited to automatic

If you pass on manual you can choose either

Why limit yourself

If you wipe it all down and dust it with talc the oil leak will show much clearer

I used half tennis balls as cones to set up a practice course

The layout is here

http://www.themotorbikeforum.co.uk/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=30531

You are limited to 125cc and 14hp after your CBT

How about one of these

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/RED-CHROME-PUSH-B ... 53e11e29fa

i have a pressure washer. would that do the trick?

B&Q have a sand blaster attachment for pressure washers

around £15

Araldite won't stick to milk carton plastic

What's the panel made from

my clutch doesnt fully disengage 1st gear sometimes

Its probably because you have a wet clutch

the plates are wet and the coating of oil causes a little drag when the cluch is disengaged

it will happen in the other gears but it shows more in first because of the lower ratio

you'll get less drag as the oil warms up

The image must be at least 0 pixels wide, 0 pixels high and at most 1024 pixels wide and 768 pixels high. The submitted image is 1522 pixels wide and 1063 pixels high.

Youv'e answered your own question

the image is to big

I did my CBT at Harleys in springburn just before they shut down last summer

On the last day they were open

I was told that they were closing down the business

I misunderstood the rules, here's the file

dsa_mc_diagram_manoeuvring_layout.pdf

I know I'm not allowed to post direct links

So do a google search for this file dsa_mc_diagram_manoeuvring_layout.pdf

It has all the dimensions to lay out the test course

I agree

its good site for practice

I was clicking too often and got 4 clips cancelled with zero score

but I still managed a score of 38 on the remaining 10 clips

so I think I should pass if I take it easy clicking

I've just fixed a similar problem on my bike

I couldn't find any fault in the wiring

It turned out to be the regulator

the metal plate it was bolted to had broken away from the frame

and disconnected the battery negative

Everything was back to normal when I welded the plate back on

all due to chinese build quality